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Cab lock problem

Areed

New member
10
2
3
Location
Charlotte NC
I would try to rebuild the lock itself first. It is not tied into the power steering system. You can get to 1 o ring easily and the other is a little more difficult.
Take the big aluminum nut off and the piston assembly will come out. The seal in nut is just a dust seal FYI, the o ring on the piston can be replaced and theres a smaller seal on the inside of the body that can be replaced as well.
20190918_114346.jpg20190903_161827.jpg20190903_161640.jpg

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Areed

New member
10
2
3
Location
Charlotte NC
Oh and dont forget to bleed it after you put it together. Just crack the line and pump it to get the air out and you should be good to go.
Honestly even if you can half ass rebuild it till you can get th cab to raise and then pull the lock to rebuild it it will be infinitely easier.

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Areed

New member
10
2
3
Location
Charlotte NC
Yes there is a place to fill the fluid res. It's on the other side of the air cleaner. It has a black plastic screw on top. I put hydraulic fluid for my lathe in it. Not sure if that's right or not but that's what I had. It did not have ATF in it when I got it.

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coachgeo

Well-known member
5,147
3,462
113
Location
North of Cincy OH
Thank you for your help. Once I replace the seal is there a spot to fill the fluid back up. Did you use ATF transmission fluid? If not, what would you recommend?
most use hydraulic fluid. there is a special fluid (hydraulic fluid with more additives) that is better. Search this forum for the correct name. Seem to recall it is is also used for aviation hydraulics???
 
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