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Calling all wheel/tire gods!

TechnoWeenie

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I gotta admit, the options on wheels and tires are downright confusing...

I've read a bunch of threads, and these tires go with these rims but not those rims and those rims can be used with that tire but only on that version and not this version, and this tire is great on this rim but don't use it on that rim because they suck...and these tires will rub if on on this rim so you have to use this rim, but you can't run beadlocks and..... ahhhhhh... so many options.. I've heard 14s suck and are unreliable, but super cheap (don't want something to fail on me), I've heard 16's are great off road but suck on road and will suck all the power out of your rig (already maxed out weight-wise because of van box), I think I was reading that 395s were a happy medium but some had sidewall strength issues? etc.. just WAY too much information mixed in with personal experience and opinion for me to sort through..

So, I'd like to ask a favor..

Suggest a tire/rim combo for me, pretty please?

Vehicle M934 (A0)

Current rubber : 'Brand new' 1100r20 G177s (OK, they have about 3500 miles on them)....All 11 of them (10 + 1 spare)...with original A0 'standard' rims...

Usage: 99% Highway/on road, HOWEVER, priority is to off road capability. I'd rather have a good off road tire that runs like crap on the highway than a good highway tire that will leave me stuck off road.



I want to be able to air them down as far as possible without damaging the sidewalls, and without having to remount the tire.. So, I think that would also necessitate a runflat insert?

I absolutely, positively, do not want split rims.

I would prefer to stay with dually tires, for reliability purposes (I had a tire fail,tube failed, deflating it, and I didn't even notice until a bit later when I took a turn and noticed the sidewall flexing), however I see that dually options are almost non-existent outside the G177s I currently have. This isn't mandatory, just a 'like'. I also like the idea of being able to change a tire by myself, instead of requiring a soldier B.. Super Singles are quite heavy to do with one person, so I hear. But again, more a preference than anything, it's fairly low on the priority list.

I would like, for cost reasons, to stick with readily available, preferably surplus, parts. That's great that they have these newfangled carbon fiber nanotube tires on a titanium alloy rim, more power to you, I'm not spending $40k on tires and wheels.. :p That doesn't mean I'm cheap, ok, I'm cheap, but I would rather pay more for something that works than pay less for something that doesn't. Buy once, cry once.


Thoughts?


TLDR; I want a low maintenance, off road tire, and rims to match, that can be aired down, no split rims.

Thanks guys!
 

doghead

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I question what tires are available to you in Britain.
 

doghead

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Well, there is a reason our rules ask for a state to be listed in your info.

We used to enforce it.
 

swbradley1

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I question where you are going to get split rims and where you found an M939A0 series truck.

If you are hard set on dual wheels you have what you need right now or you could go with Titan 11.00x20 NDTs which would be better off-road.

Obviously you are not going to get 1600s or 395s or even 1400s in a dual configuration.
 

silverstate55

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Or 12R22.5 tubeless radials on one-piece steel wheels...I'm sure you can get all new wheels & tires for less than the $40K you are worried about. You can air down tubeless tires without having to worry about spinning the tube & damaging it.

Or super single 22.5 tubeless radials on aluminum wide wheels. Your local Craigslists will probably have some of these used available.
 

doghead

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Optimizing performance for 1% of the use of the vehicle, and compromising on road use/safety at a cost of $1000-3000 does not make sense.
 

TechnoWeenie

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I question where you are going to get split rims and where you found an M939A0 series truck.
I'm confused...

It's already ON split rims, and I call the non-revision variants A0s... Ie A0, A1, A2, etc.... Near every time I tell someone I have an M934, I always get asked, 'an A1, or an A2?'... Just an M934 doesn't seem to cut it, so I just call it an m934A0.. :p


If you are hard set on dual wheels you have what you need right now or you could go with Titan 11.00x20 NDTs which would be better off-road.

Obviously you are not going to get 1600s or 395s or even 1400s in a dual configuration.

I'm not hard set on staying with duals, it's at the bottom of the priority list, and is barely there...
 

swbradley1

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Do you have a pic of your split rims?

My guess is that you have locking ring rims and are using the wrong nomenclature like the A0 to describe things. Not trying to pick on you but words mean things and using the wrong words get you the wrong answers and people like me responding like this.

;-)


Getting the 22.5 tires and wheels might be a good option.
 

porkysplace

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I'm confused...

It's already ON split rims, and I call the non-revision variants A0s... Ie A0, A1, A2, etc.... Near every time I tell someone I have an M934, I always get asked, 'an A1, or an A2?'... Just an M934 doesn't seem to cut it, so I just call it an m934A0.. :p





I'm not hard set on staying with duals, it's at the bottom of the priority list, and is barely there...
You don't have split rims , you have lock rings . Split rims are very old and dangerous 2 piece rims.
 

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TechnoWeenie

Well-known member
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Nova Laboratories, WA
Do you have a pic of your split rims?

My guess is that you have locking ring rims and are using the wrong nomenclature like the A0 to describe things. Not trying to pick on you but words mean things and using the wrong words get you the wrong answers and people like me responding like this.

It's all good. They're the standard rims. They look like split rims so I call them split rims.. :D

454606_6007_0_0003.jpg454606_6007_0_0004.jpg

I've heard people use the A0 thing before, so I figured it was somewhat commonplace... Sorry for the confusion...

I don't want to stay with the current wheels, no matter what. Too many horror stories about split rims (and even if these are lock rims, don't wanna deal with it).. I'd rather deal with lots of bolting things together than relying on friction...
 
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wrenchturner6238

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I have a M931 and I am staying with my 11.00 20's G177's. My road speed is not that great but when driving it I am goofing off anyhow. I have 4 or 5 spares on the truck itself with them. The blow out stuff I do not like either. Just where i am thinking.
 

doghead

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I call the non-revision variants A0s... Ie A0, A1, A2, etc....
By that standard, I think that makes my XM818, an M818A-1(minus one).
 

grendel

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14R20 XZL on a 5t combat wheel. They are not horrible.

The XL sucked. XZL goes where I point it.

Put a locker in one of your rear differentials.
 

simp5782

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395 XZLs are widely available on wheels New for a reasonable 250 per tire. For around 225 per tire/wheel you can have beadlock 12.00s and be able to run duals on the 934 for better stability and 395s on the front. 12.00-20 G272s are available brand new with 2013 date codes.

14.00 XZLs are getting harder to come by.

Sent from my SM-G860P using Tapatalk
 
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