demonhunter77
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What is so special about carc paint? I am about to strip and prime my deuce this week and IM wanting to know if i should invest in carc and why.
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carc paint
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I guess just typing in a question without searching is a way to do it I guess !!
If you click just on the search button and type in CARC it has been literally talked and disccussed to death without
having to post a new thred on it.
THen if you had a question on the subject - you could use an already open thread to discuss it even more.
Under the forum button at the top - scroll nearly to the bottom and you will see the paint and bodywork link -
If you click just on the search button and type in CARC it has been literally talked and disccussed to death without
having to post a new thred on it.
THen if you had a question on the subject - you could use an already open thread to discuss it even more.
Under the forum button at the top - scroll nearly to the bottom and you will see the paint and bodywork link -
demonhunter77
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Sorry. IM new. 
Scarecrow1
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Don't be sorry we all learn in time . What you really ask was for an opinion and that is okay to but research the tread and let us know in your case which paint you feel is the best. I bet you get a lot more answers to your question then. I have seen some home depot paint jobs that look pretty good also , Good luck
emr
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1st question ...The answer is nothing , 2nd question... unless you are in theater
welldigger
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Carc is durable but in the civilian world....very expensive. It was designed to help hide heat signatures of vehicles. For us that isn't really needed. I have been tossing around the idea of coating my entire truck in something like spray on bed liner. Durabak so far seems to be the one I have picked out.
emr
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The Hobby paints, Arvoe and Gilespie are better for what we use em for, others try all kinds of crazy ways to match em, These 2 are inexpensive good matches and easy to keep getting, and also a big one here... they come in spray cans also for along the road touch ups and so on. Someone here sells gilespie, good guy and good inexpensive paint, I use arvoe, Like the guy allot who sells it and it matches a little better to the carc paints in service, especially the 24087, or Vietnam color...
wb1895
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CARC: Chemical Agent Resistant Coating
Unless you are looking to possibly be in a NBC environment, CARC is not needed.
Unless you are looking to possibly be in a NBC environment, CARC is not needed.
drgreg
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I like CARC. I also use the mil-spec epoxy primer. 1 coat of each, rather than several coats of lipstick.
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I got to this page:
http://oem.sherwin-williams.com/us/eng/products/categories/military_coatings/?paging=false
And now I have a bunch of questions I thought I had the answer too. . . .
Type?
1 part or 2?
Etc. . . .
I did a truck with Gillespie paint but it came out too shiney.
http://oem.sherwin-williams.com/us/eng/products/categories/military_coatings/?paging=false
And now I have a bunch of questions I thought I had the answer too. . . .
Type?
1 part or 2?
Etc. . . .
I did a truck with Gillespie paint but it came out too shiney.
demonhunter77
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After looking through the forum, talking to individuals and searching the net, I have decided to go with one layer of 2 part as a primer. and then coat the ol' gal in blast mitigation line x. What do you guys think?
welldigger
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I was thinking something similar but instead of line-x I was going to go with a product called durabak. They make it in military colors and it gets excellent reviews. Line-x is an excellent product. If not the best on the market. I simply cannot afford to have an entire trucked sprayed with it. The durabak for me at least seems to be the best solution. And I like doing things myself. But if you can afford it go for it.
Scarecrow1
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I urge you to use ex stream caution In your stripping process the stuff you are about to start sanding on may cause you some really nasty side effects. If you don't believe me then do some digging and see. Why would you want to remove the paint to start with? If it is chipping or cracking then I may bring it down a layer or two but if not the leave it be. People are constantly trying to to fix what isn't broke and it just shows they didn't do their research. On bare metal if is essential to use primer .Primer is a bonding agent that acts as a surface to attach a harder surface to another that is thinner and more ply able . The surface you have now is far better used as a primer than anything (we) could possibly buy . If you do sand please with a respirator and a chemical suit.
cajun666
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You paint is shiny cause the way you spray it.
You spray it to wet.
To get that non gloss finish you have to spray it more dry.
You spray it to wet.
To get that non gloss finish you have to spray it more dry.
demonhunter77
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Unfortunately the paint is chipping all over. and exposing the original o.d. green underneath. The carc on it is pretty thick so sandind down the chipped areas would make the body look wavy. IM afraid IM gonna have to take it off scarecrow1.
and exposing the original o.d. green underneath. The carc on it is pretty thick so sandind down the chipped areas would make the body look wavy. IM afraid IM gonna have to take it off scarecrow1.demonhunter77
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I haven't read up on durabak. Has it got a polyurea additive for tactical usage?
demonhunter77
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I figured if it was good enough for mv's in theatre right now, then the ballistic protection and blast mitigation formulas of line x and rhino lining is good enough for me deuce.
It is chemical resistant, sound and heat signature dampening and combat protective. The formualtion with polyurea even has mild dirty bomb radiation protection.
It is chemical resistant, sound and heat signature dampening and combat protective. The formualtion with polyurea even has mild dirty bomb radiation protection.
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the big problem with any of the non carc paints, is that most of them are not durable, and will 'reduce' even years later. that means that paint solvent, brake clean, gum cutter,etc will remove the paint. carc is, as far as i can tell, nothing more than urathane automotive paint. if you really want to spend the time and have a good job that will last forever, use any number of the civ urathane paints. they can be matched and dulled so they look right. my last several trucks have all been blasted to bare metal, 100%, and epoxy primed and painted. cost is about $1000 per truck if you have to pay, and less if you have the facilities.
uriss
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go to lowes, pick a few paint colors, go outside and see which does best for you. At the suggestion of the paint clerk after I picked pine bough green, was recommended the valspar duramax. Painted my box with it and touched up some of the rusty spots that I had cleaned. As a daily driver and currently doing flood duty helping neighbors the paint job looks original with some nice mud on it!