Changing fuel filters

[FormerNewMVGuy]

Im gettin ready to change all the filters on my M35A2 Ldt 465,When you change the fuel filters how do you reprime it? Does the pump in the tank take care of that!? I dont see a hand pump on the IP. do you have to bleed it at the IP?

 

[cranetruck]

The in-tank pump will take care of it for you. There is also a bleeder valve on the fuel filter bracket (on the engine) to get the air out. Just run the pump and bleed the air and you are good to go,
Don't forget the primary filter/water separator on the right frame rail.

 

[FreightTrain]

Make sure your in tank pump is working first.Many don't work.Usually due to being run while empty and the fuse blowing.Just unscrew teh bolt on top of all 3 filters and the canister will come loose.Pour the old fuel out clean the canister,replace the filter and replace.Flip the switch and let the intank pump run for about 2 or 3 minutes(actually takes about 30 seconds but I like to let it run to make sure ALL air is out of the system).

 

[oifvet]

On that bleeder valve, remember to just turn the top portion. It's just a thin stem made out of brass. I think it was a 7/16" wrench, maybe 3/8". Mine was seized once, and as I turned it, it snapped off. Fortunately, the valve was still closed. Simple replacement, but I got the last one that Memphis Truck had. With the in-tank pump running, the fuel didn't stream out as much as it just flowed. A nice easy job, or at least it should be. Nice clean filters and an in-tank pump that works is a joy. Makes ya feel good!

 

[builder77]

As I found out on the sided of the road you can prime the fuel system with air pressure too if your intank pump is not working. Same setup as with if the pump works. Crack the bleeder on the filter bracket. It also helped me to crack a injector line or two. Just pressurize the fuel tank. Careful you don't over do it though as it will only take a few pounds of pressure. You don't want to rupture your fuel tank. There is an extra pipe thread bung on the top of the tank that was the same as my air hose line.

 

[FormerNewMVGuy]

Thanks guys! How can u check the in tank pump to see if it is running? and where is the fuse located? also if i take the plug out of the brake master cylinder to add or check fluid do i have to bleed it afterwards, I belive thats a bleeder on top of the plug, just took a quick look in the dark without my specs on LOL
And i did get all three fuel filters Bought a whole filter kit from high price memphis epuipment! actually i thought the filter kit was reasonable. Three fuel filters ,two oil filters and one air filter $98.00 plus the gaskets, didnt think it was to far off for price. But i thought i was going to be smart and buy the kit get the numbers off the filters and just cross reference them at my best friends repiar shop, BUT they ground all the numbers off the filters Ahh well i tried

 

[houdel]

With the "accessory" switch on, engine not running and low air buzzer off I can hear my pump running from the driver's seat. At the very least if you go over to the tank you should be easily be able to hear making a very noticeable humming sound. But just because it is running doesn't mean it is pumping, infrequently the bottom falls off the pump and all they do is spin around without pumping. Best check is to turn the "accessory" switch on and crack the bleeder at the bottom of the primary filter. As long as there is not too much crud in the bottom of the filter bowl you should get good stream of fuel out of the drain.

The "bleeder" on the top of the M/C plug is just a vent. Most M35s have a vent line there, but a few, like yours and mine, just have a vent, pretty similar in design to the axle vent.

$98 sounds like a lot, but air filters are pretty expensive. I pay about $6-$8 each for Baldwin fuel filters, check out the "multifuel filter and gasket interchange" chart below for more info:
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?module=pagesetter&func=viewpub&tid=3&pid=17

 

[tgonce87]

We're does the new gaskets go on my new fuel filter,when installing the secondary fuel filters

 

[mil]

wonder if anyone since 2006/7 still reads & advises NOW (2020)? If so -my problem=
I'm attempting to remove primary fuel filter (M35A2) - 1st time -on bobbed truck
(I have unfortunately purchased for good deal of $$from very crooked seller from LA=
many problems-nothing works). I've slackened the upper bolt (without gen. lift) and
unscrewed WIX 33405, via 2" long threaded 1/2" rod, from that hollow upper bolt.
Then I've tried to unscrew the actual WIX from its upper circular alum. holder (have
4 +2 holes) - but nothing moves. WIX became mis-shaped, threaded rod, with the
nut came unscrewed, one "C" clamp filter removal got broken, my chain filter clamp
made filter body almost square. WHY it just can NOT be removed? (Yes, I had
experienced "super glued" ! oil filters on that truck). Maybe I'm missing something,
otherwise have to drill hole through WIX for 2ft bar and 2 holes (threaded) for
holding screws in that "holder" & try again?

 

[John B.]

wonder if anyone since 2006/7 still reads & advises NOW (2020)? If so -my problem=
I'm attempting to remove primary fuel filter (M35A2) - 1st time -on bobbed truck
(I have unfortunately purchased for good deal of $$from very crooked seller from LA=
many problems-nothing works). I've slackened the upper bolt (without gen. lift) and
unscrewed WIX 33405, via 2" long threaded 1/2" rod, from that hollow upper bolt.
Then I've tried to unscrew the actual WIX from its upper circular alum. holder (have
4 +2 holes) - but nothing moves. WIX became mis-shaped, threaded rod, with the
nut came unscrewed, one "C" clamp filter removal got broken, my chain filter clamp
made filter body almost square. WHY it just can NOT be removed? (Yes, I had
experienced "super glued" ! oil filters on that truck). Maybe I'm missing something,
otherwise have to drill hole through WIX for 2ft bar and 2 holes (threaded) for
holding screws in that "holder" & try again?

Hi I was looking for information on changing the original military cartridge type primary fuel filter on my M35A2 and I found your post. I looked up your filter part number and it looks like a sealed canister type filter. If that's the one you have yours should just spin off your filter housing. At some point someone might have upgraded your housing to take regular spin on filters. If you can take some pictures and post them I would happily try to advise you how to proceed. I just bought my my truck and I'm in the process of doing base maintenance on it before I start the major work. I removed my primary fuel filter housing and found the filter was just sitting in the bottom of the canister with no spring to keep it sealed the the filter head. It was doing absolutely nothing! I'm attaching a photo of the original primary fuel filter housing and the wix number filter that sopposedly replaces the OEM military filter. If yours doesn't look like this one it could be aftermarket.

 

[frank8003]

Just take it apart and renew it all, You will learn

 

[Recovry4x4]

wonder if anyone since 2006/7 still reads & advises NOW (2020)? If so -my problem=
I'm attempting to remove primary fuel filter (M35A2) - 1st time -on bobbed truck
(I have unfortunately purchased for good deal of $$from very crooked seller from LA=
many problems-nothing works). I've slackened the upper bolt (without gen. lift) and
unscrewed WIX 33405, via 2" long threaded 1/2" rod, from that hollow upper bolt.
Then I've tried to unscrew the actual WIX from its upper circular alum. holder (have
4 +2 holes) - but nothing moves. WIX became mis-shaped, threaded rod, with the
nut came unscrewed, one "C" clamp filter removal got broken, my chain filter clamp
made filter body almost square. WHY it just can NOT be removed? (Yes, I had
experienced "super glued" ! oil filters on that truck). Maybe I'm missing something,
otherwise have to drill hole through WIX for 2ft bar and 2 holes (threaded) for
holding screws in that "holder" & try again?

If you can read WIX from the outside, someone converted it to a spin on. When in doubt, post up a pic so we can decipher what you have.

Edit, check out this link! Its a spin on conversion (a good one) and it sports the same part number.
JATONKA MULTIFUEL SPIN-ON OIL FILTER KITS (jatonkam35s.com)

 

[davidb56]

Disconnect the fuel lines and filter housing, place it in a vice and go for it. worse case is the the fitting in the housing will unthread too, and you'll have to replace that part, or the whole thing will break.

 

[frank8003]

Until you are assured there is not two or more "square gaskets" in there you may find it easier to just take the whole thingie off and do it right that first time. No leaks that way. Working upside down and backwards and it not sealing is a pain in the ...
So maybe just mark things good and remove the fixture and do it right the first time.
And when the system is opened up and you loose prime only to find the in-tank pump doesn't really pump is another fun pastime.

 

[FloridaAKM]

That is a King sized helping of petroleum jelly on the fuel filter seals don'tcha think?

 

[frank8003]

That is a King sized helping of petroleum jelly on the fuel filter seals don'tcha think?

Yeah yeah..... I was melting too.
So one day I got the truck, She running good. I put it in the main driveway to change the fuel filters to find I could not get them sealed, petcocks broken off and other problems. Was one of my first posts about my 14,000 pound yard ornament because I got the filters done and She would not start. I found one fuse in the truck. I took that housing to work and 100% refurbished it, precision holes and SS screws to boot. Reinstalled and no start, no fuel. Found in-tank pump NG then had to learn all about that. Found wrong hose, learned about that.
Found fuel tank inlet screen plugged dirty totally wasted, fixed that.
Had to build a workbench. When done with that system I then invented/built and installed the best external primary fuel filter system [3 micron] ever and she always started immediate and ran perfect. .... A learning experience.
Got it running good to find numerous various really hard to get to fuel and lube lines needed to be replaced.
I remember when I put that petroleum jelly in the grooves in that housing it was 99°F in the shed, it was not so bad out in the sunshine.

 

[18operator]

I take the housings off every time I change the fuel filters. Both primary and secondary. That way everything is cleaned, lubed, and tightened properly. It does take a little extra time but it also helps in looking for other possible problems to take care of before them become a real problem. And it helps you get real familiar with your truck.
And frank8003, I really like that special filter set up you have! A thing of beauty!

 

[frank8003]

I take the housings off every time I change the fuel filters. Both primary and secondary. That way everything is cleaned, lubed, and tightened properly. It does take a little extra time but it also helps in looking for other possible problems to take care of before them become a real problem. And it helps you get real familiar with your truck.
And frank8003, I really like that special filter set up you have! A thing of beauty!

I searched into makin patent on that filter setup but alas, way to expensive for me. Many others including rustystud have done similair/like installations but note that it worked with the bypass back to the tank (partial or full) due to the better output of that Bradley pump. [ could just filter the entire tank of fuel each hour to 3 micron or 1 micron depending on filter].
I should have bought all those Bradley pumps that were available at the time for the 50 bucks each. And that Swagelok stuff is the very best, can't believe people don't use it to fix problems in their trucks.