• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Changing the brakes front pads and rotor problem

mezc

New member
42
1
0
Location
bakersfield,ca
I just removed the caliper, but the rotor is not coming out as easy as all the youtube friking videos showed. 8(

Do I need to take the whole hub out first?

I’ll post some pic in a minute

thanks
 

Attachments

Last edited:

mezc

New member
42
1
0
Location
bakersfield,ca
Dangerous findings, back pad no ceramic braking metal to metal, front pad ceramic was not attached and cracked, that little clip fall out, do I need another (two)? where does it go?

new stuff all chiness junk
 
Last edited:

mezc

New member
42
1
0
Location
bakersfield,ca
my Autozone did not have anything good in stock, so I was planning "finish" today and use these $12 dlls pads for some weeks while getting something better, but still I am stuck, I could not take the locking nut, where can I press the hub and rotor?

I took the snapring out but then I couldn't figure out what to do next, see pic.
 

Attachments

Last edited:

Crash_AF

Active member
1,530
7
38
Location
Colorado Springs, CO
Ok, you are only at the beginning of getting the rotor off. You have to pull the snap ring that's on the end of the axle stub off and the snap ring on the inside of the hub that holds the aluminum locking hub piece in place. Once you have the locking hub guts out, then you have to remove the two nuts that hold the wheel bearings in place. This takes one of two styles of socket, hopefully you have the easier to find of the two which is a big socket with four tabs. If you have the other, you might have to resort to the hammer and chisel method of getting it off using the chisel to spin the nut off.

You can get the later style of four slot nut from NAPA which will make getting the bearings preloaded much easier.

Once you have the hub/rotor assembly off, you need to remove the inner and outer wheel bearings and separate the rotor from the hub. My preferred method is to use a 5 lb hammer and pound the studs out. You did buy new studs right? If not, get them.

Once the studs are out, the hub and rotor should separate with relative ease. The approved method of reassembly is to press the new studs into the hub with a press. In a pinch I have used the big hammer and a drift to put them back in, but you run the risk of damaging the lip of the hub doing this. I have also used a wheel and the lug nuts with an impact gun to pull the stud in, then seat it with the hammer and drift if it won't seat with the gun.

From your last pic, I can't tell if you removed the snap ring on the stub (in the center) or the outer hub. Both have to be removed in order to pull the rest of the locking hub guts out. I thread one of the screws back into it in order to have something to grip while I'm pulling it out.

Later,
Joe
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks