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Civilian brake controller on an M1078

MRAP DREAM GIRL

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I've been searching for days I cannot find any information must be using the wrong keywords. But, we need a brake controller for our new RV tow. If anybody could direct me we could delete this thread afterwards please
 

simp5782

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I've been searching for days I cannot find any information must be using the wrong keywords. But, we need a brake controller for our new RV tow. If anybody could direct me we could delete this thread afterwards please
You can T in off a 12v light in the box by the steering column.

Add an air line T where the existing brake light switch is at for a switch to apply power to your brakes from the module when the brakes are applied.
 

MrMikey4026

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Eatonville Washington
I installed one on my 1078, was no big deal.
Powered off the 12 volt lug in the PDP with a 20 amp circuit breaker, tapped into the brake light circuit to trigger the brake control. Ran a 12 gauge wire back to the trailer socket, used a Napa adapter for plug from commercial style to RV style socket adapter.
 

Bill Nutting

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Here’s what I did. First you need a 12 volt source. It’s best to use a 24 to 12 DC to DC converter. I connect the coil of a 24 volt relay to the existing break light switch and ground to the other coil connection. When I hit the break, the relay pulls. I connected 12 volts to a “make” contact on the relay and the break sense wire from the break controller to the other “ make contact. So when I hit the break the relay passes 12 volts to the break controller. You can power the controller with the same DC to DC converter. I found them on Amazon. I used a 20 amp unit because I use it for other 12 volt devises in the cab. The controller I bought has an adjustment that applies the break voltage gradually. I can Adjust how fast to “ramp up” the voltage. I think it’s a Reese controller. This has been working good for me.
 

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
12,123
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Mason, TN
Here’s what I did. First you need a 12 volt source. It’s best to use a 24 to 12 DC to DC converter. I connect the coil of a 24 volt relay to the existing break light switch and ground to the other coil connection. When I hit the break, the relay pulls. I connected 12 volts to a “make” contact on the relay and the break sense wire from the break controller to the other “ make contact. So when I hit the break the relay passes 12 volts to the break controller. You can power the controller with the same DC to DC converter. I found them on Amazon. I used a 20 amp unit because I use it for other 12 volt devises in the cab. The controller I bought has an adjustment that applies the break voltage gradually. I can Adjust how fast to “ramp up” the voltage. I think it’s a Reese controller. This has been working good for me.
LMTVs are dual voltage trucks, they are predominantly 12v
 

Bill Nutting

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Chesterfield, Mi.
I installed one on my 1078, was no big deal.
Powered off the 12 volt lug in the PDP with a 20 amp circuit breaker, tapped into the brake light circuit to trigger the brake control. Ran a 12 gauge wire back to the trailer socket, used a Napa adapter for plug from commercial style to RV style socket adapter.
Are you triggering the controller with 24 volts? If I knew you could this it would have made my install a bit easier…
 

chucky

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????? Im always into learning WHY on this stuff but every tail light lense ive pulled off of 1082s 1102s 1083s all had 24v bulbs in them when you looked the numbers up but i havnt put a meter on them to see the voltage. They were of course not led ! Are the leds 12v and the bulb type 24? Today im going to check what im getting on my 1083 to see !
 

Bill Nutting

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I’m sorry if I confused the issue. My modification will work on an all 24 volt vehicle. If the vehicle has dual voltages, 12 and 24, then simply measure the out put voltage at the break light switch. If it’s 12 v install the controller like it’s an F150. These dual voltage vehicles confuse me... It doesn’t take much.😜
 

chucky

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no lights are 12v as Wes points out. Only thing major that is 24vlt is starter and transmission (and nato plug) It does have though a 24v military trailer female AND a 12v civilian trailer female as well
LOL Do you and Wes get tired of being rite all the time ? I put the meter on the lights today and they are 12 volt and i still dont understand i bought 4 1102s a few years back out of FT CHAMPBELL and all of them had 24v bulbs in them cause i had to change every tail light bulb on them to 12v bulbs then they were brite again with the originals in the trailer hooked to my 12v truck they were dim until i changed them !
 

coachgeo

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LOL Do you and Wes get tired of being rite all the time ? I put the meter on the lights today and they are 12 volt and i still dont understand i bought 4 1102s a few years back out of FT CHAMPBELL and all of them had 24v bulbs in them cause i had to change every tail light bulb on them to 12v bulbs then they were brite again with the originals in the trailer hooked to my 12v truck they were dim until i changed them !
Wes Simpson has mountains more experience and practical experience at that. Me?? maybe an atom within a grain of sand ; experience comparatively to Wes.

only things Im right at are the things I have been wrong about for dozens of times till I finally got it right.
 

chucky

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TN .
Wes Simpson has mountains more experience and practical experience at that. Me?? maybe an atom within a grain of sand ; experience comparatively to Wes.

only things Im right at are the things I have been wrong about for dozens of times till I finally got it right.
Sounds like your reading my mail ! lol
 

profo

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Location
jeanerette,la
this will help also you got to find the wire 22 in under the circuit board /fuse panel and cut the one going to the rear connector and this is the brake controller output, tie your controller output to this wire, if I remember there were two one going to the front and one to the rear. all the stuff on lmtv is 12 volt except starter, heater, and engine if I remember correctly!
 

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coachgeo

Well-known member
5,142
3,458
113
Location
North of Cincy OH
this will help also you got to find the wire 22 in under the circuit board /fuse panel and cut the one going to the rear connector and this is the brake controller output, tie your controller output to this wire, if I remember there were two one going to the front and one to the rear. all the stuff on lmtv is 12 volt except starter, heater, and engine if I remember correctly!
glad your pic of pin out reflects that it references to an A1. Curious how close it is to A0. brake wiring may have changed a smidge with their being a Pak Brake put into the harness for A1's.
 
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