Clutch Job Looming

[Seth_O]

So I believe I have a clutch job in my immediate future for my bobbed deuce. I noticed a week or so ago while stopping at lights that sporadically when I engaged the clutch I could feel light vibrations in the pedal and hear some unhappy grinding sounds. They immediatly went away if I released the clutch (in gear or in neutral) and I chocked that up to a bad T/O bearing.

It progressively got worse, and then on saturday I found I couldn't get the truck into reverse or first without some bad grinding. I could still shift 2-5 (with varying degrees of effort) but my 2 asynchronous gears? Forget it.

Anything else I should be considering when I am getting ready to tear into this? I am getting ready to move in a week, and my deuce plays an integral part in the move plan - so I need to get him back up and running.

 

[Floridianson]

get the 6 puck pressure plate.

 

[Warthog]

If you are pulling the transmission,you might as well replace the rear main engine oil seal.

You can make a clutch alignment tool with a dowel rod and some tape. Not the best but it does work.

When you are rmoving the tranny put it 1st gear to help the tranny to clear the cab mount.

 

[Stan]

Do a search for old threads on this, tons of great tips.

 

[glcaines]

If you can get a truck transmission jack, it makes the job a lot easier. Be careful - that thing is heavy and it's easy to lose a finger.

 

[fasttruck]

Try adjusting it first especially if you have little or no freeplay in the pedal. If you cannot get the clevis pin through the adjusting clevis becase the rod is in the way then there is not enough meat on the clutch for further adjustment. You run the clevis up the rod to compensate for wear in the clutch. When you turn it up enough to block the pin it is time to replace the clutch.

 

[Floridianson]

If it's the truck in your avatar with rag top there is no way I would not do it over head with a chain fall. The higher the point or longer the cable/chain will make it so nice when you go to pushing it back in. Im talking one hand light push. Yes I cheat and have cranes and place the hook 15 ft high.

 

[Seth_O]

Great tips guys - tks. I started tear-down last night. I spent ~2hrs and got everything apart up to tranny removal. I am going to steal a trick I read here while searching info on this and run a 4x4 front to back and suspend a chain hoist from it. I plan on running the chain through a steel pipe and then over the 4x4 so I can more easily move it forward/backward.

Warthog - I think I will replace the rear main at the same time. I know for my LC that's by far SOP when doing a clutch job, it seems less common for some reason on the deuce's. Regardless though, I would hate to have to get into all this again in a few months.

 

[Seth_O]

Try adjusting it first especially if you have little or no freeplay in the pedal. If you cannot get the clevis pin through the adjusting clevis becase the rod is in the way then there is not enough meat on the clutch for further adjustment. You run the clevis up the rod to compensate for wear in the clutch. When you turn it up enough to block the pin it is time to replace the clutch.

That's a good idea, if it weren't for the fact I can hear my T/O bearing grinding when I push the clutch it, I would definitely try adjusting it first.

 

[Wildchild467]

when was the last time the throw out bearing was greased? what interval do you grease them? maybe one pump ever 3000 miles?

 

[Seth_O]

when was the last time the throw out bearing was greased? what interval do you grease them? maybe one pump ever 3000 miles?

Not sure, I picked the truck up from GL maybe 1k miles ago. When I look up in the inspection plate on the bellhousing, I can see grease on the splines and in that general area. I think the bearing itself is sealed though? So the grease would really just be for moving the bearing on the tranny shaft?

 

[jwaller]

I'd run the 4x4 from side to side not front to back. I don't think it's level front to back and I know the doors are level or at least close enough.

 

[Stan]

I've done front to back with the 4x4 no problem. Door to door would make access to the cab difficult.

 

[CARNAC]

I'm starting to have the same problem.

 

[blisters13]

Can you please take some pics while you do the job? Thanks!

 

[shootiniron]

Why the six puck plate as opposed to the other?

 

[Seth_O]

Yesterday I got all the prep work done, everything disconnected/removed except the actual transmission. Then today while I was at work a buddy came by and pulled the transmission for me. He did a 4x4 from the windshield to the back, and hooked a chain hoist up to it. Seems like it went pretty smoothly and well. I got home to find my transmission siting on rollers on the ground .

The first thing I noticed was that I have ~1/16" of play in the input shaft on the tranny (up/down and side/side). This is my first deuce, but I can't imagine that's either normal or healthy? Then I took a look at the PP and flywheel inside the BH and noticed a TON of disk material (in fine powder form) all over the inside. Apparently someone learned how to drive a stick in my deuce. Nice. After pulling the PP and disk, I noticed a significant amount of wear on the input bushing, and copious amounts of bronze dust in the area. When I actually pulled the bushing I noticed quite a bit of wear on it inside - consistent with the freeplay in the input shaft on the tranny.

I also noticed (not sure if it's related) that many of the holes where the tranny bolts to the adapter plate seem to have coils in them. Maybe someone tried to draw the tranny on with the bolts and stripped them out?

Attached are pic's, looking for opinions as to what would cause it, how serious of an issue I may have, and a good solution path - if ya'll have them. Of course, if that's normal and I shouldn't worry about it; I'd be happy to hear that too

 

[Seth_O]

Can you please take some pics while you do the job? Thanks!

Sorry blister - I am halfway into the job and just now busted out the camera. I'll see if I can shoot some pic's if I get home before it gets dark tomorrow.

I have been surprised at how very simple and straightforward the job is. I would recommend removing the passenger seat first, followed by all the tunnel cover components, makes it much easier to get to the divorced shaft.

I popped the pin on the clutch pedal at the bottom of the arm where it comes out of the bell housing, and removed the front d-shaft where it attached to the t-case. Then just unbolted the tranny and lowered it to the ground using a chain hoist from above. Very, very simple.

 

[Seth_O]

The first thing I noticed was that I have ~1/16" of play in the input shaft on the tranny (up/down and side/side). This is my first deuce, but I can't imagine that's either normal or healthy? Then I took a look at the PP and flywheel inside the BH and noticed a TON of disk material (in fine powder form) all over the inside. Apparently someone learned how to drive a stick in my deuce. Nice. After pulling the PP and disk, I noticed a significant amount of wear on the input bushing, and copious amounts of bronze dust in the area. When I actually pulled the bushing I noticed quite a bit of wear on it inside - consistent with the freeplay in the input shaft on the tranny.

Any thoughts on this one? I am up against a time deadline and could use some help on what I am looking at. I have read through the TM and my assumption is that my input bearing and/or roller bearings on the input shaft are bad. Not sure if this is related to my 1st/R shifting problem as those gears are on the input shaft.

I will be opening it up this afternoon/tonight to see what the story is. Any pointers are greatly appreciated.

Should I maybe start a new thread on 'wobbly input shaft'?

 

[Maverick1701]

when was the last time the throw out bearing was greased? what interval do you grease them? maybe one pump ever 3000 miles?

grease the TO bearing? (scratches head as I realize that is something I have never done)
off to the TMs I go to figure out how...thanks for the tip!