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Converting trailer brakes: air to electric

Mike_Pop

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Has anyone ever converted trailer air brakes to electric? I have a military tilt deck trailer from the early sixties. It's only a 3 ton capacity but I think it is equipped with air brakes. I want to be able to tow it behind my M1009 and would like working brakes.

Is there any way to convert the air system to an electric system without changing the axle?

Thanks,
 

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GunTruckBuilder

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There are a number of ways to do this. Do you want something Rube Goldbergesque and cheap or do you want something elegant that will cost a little coin?
 

Mike_Pop

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I just want to see if this is feasible. Cost is not an issue right now. But some people don't know how to read when I specifically say that I don't want to change the axle.
 

GunTruckBuilder

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I think the quickest and most elegant way to do it would be to have electrically actuated air brakes. Prodigy makes some excellent controllers that can be adapted for this purpose and ARB makes a 12 volt compressor that would be ideal for this purpose. If this is of interest to you I can do some research and come up with a more detailed plan.
 

Mike_Pop

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Gun Tuck,

I would be interested in any info you can get. Right now, the trailer is in Nevada and I am in New Jersey. I won't be able to do the work for a few weeks. I'm not even positive if it has air brakes. I just recall an air line on the tongue with a glad hand. I'm hoping it's an auxillary line and not for the brakes. It's just such a small trailer with only a 3 ton capacity. It doesn't need air brakes. I don't want to change the axle because it seems to be an odd and unmolested trailer and I want to restore it.


Thanks!
 

GunTruckBuilder

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Ok, here is what I came up with for a preliminary plan. This is going off the assumption that your trailer brakes require air to actuate, not air to release. Also since you want to keep the trailer original I came up with a plan that will allow your M1009 to have pressurized air to run the trailers air brakes.

First off you're going to need a source of air. I'd use an ARB model CKMA12 and have a tank that's around 4 to 5 gallon capacity. Wire it in so that a pressure switch hooked to the tank automatically cycles the compressor on and off. It should be pretty easy to source. Check a truck jobber. On the outlet side of the tank you're going to want to install a pressure regulator. Not having any tech specs on your trailer I can't say how much air pressure you need to put to it. If you throw 100psi at it the shoes may slam against the drum like a guillotine throwing you into a skid everytime you tap the brakes. You'll want to be able to fine tune it.

You're also going to need a pair of solenoids. One will need to be the type where if you put power to it it opens and you take power away it shuts. The other if you put power to it it closes and you take power away it opens. You will also need a check valve. It wouldn't hurt to add a filter and a dryer as well.

So here's what I've come up with as far as a way to control your brakes. Tekonsha makes a trailer brake controller called the Prodigy. An excellent piece of equipment. The output wire to the trailer brakes (what actuates them) is blue. You cut into that wire with a 3 way (on/off/on) switch. This gives your M1009 the ability to run electric as well as air brakes. You run one on switch as normal to a regular electric brake outlet at the rear of the vehicle. The other on will be for your electrically actuated air brakes. Wire in the solenoids (mentioned above) so that when you depress the brake pedal solenoid A (the one that opens with power) sends air to the trailer while solenoid B (the one that closes with power) is shut. When you release the brake pedal solenoid A closes (cutting off the air flow) and solenoid B (which is a vent) opens dumping the air pressure behind solenoid A out through a check valve. The check valve is there to ensure that only air pressure can escape the line and water, mud, etc. cannot get in and contaminate the brake system. At the rear of your M1009 mount up a gladhand and use a coil hose with a glad hand on each end to connect the M1009 to the trailer. Voila, air brakes. You'll also have electric brakes courtesy of the 3 position switch.

The Prodigy is capable of rapidly cycling electric brakes for ABS. You'll want to spend the extra money on solenoids that open and close quickly so they can keep up with the pulses from the control wire. You're going to want to find a good electrical supply house local.

While this will not be a cheap mod (top of my head I'd say $2,000 or more if you buy good components) it will allow you to keep your trailer original.

Use rubber hose (Aeroquip is good stuff) to connect your compressor to the tank. Stainless steel hard line from the tank to the rear of the M1009. Use quality components. Solder your electrical connections whenever practical.

http://www.tekonsha.com/prodig.html

http://www.tekonsha.com/instructions/BC Wiring.pdf

http://www.arbusa.com/air_compressor.php
 

Mike_Pop

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Thanks for the great info! I think it may be out of my budget but it has given me ideas of how to rig something up. I'm really hoping that the trailer has electric brakes. I only paid $850 for it on eBay last year. I think it was a great buy and I know I will get a lot of use out of it.
 

GunTruckBuilder

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You're welcome.

The low buck way to do this would be to get one of those 12 volt portable air compressors from Wal Mart. Simply cut off the air chuck, graft in some more hose with a glad hand. Run it out the back window to the trailer. Then whenever you want trailer brakes flip the switch and start pumping air back there. However I think my original solution is slightly more elegant.

I suppose you could find an old York A/C compressor and use that as an air compressor. Go with a cheaper controller. Scrounge around in a big truck salvage yard for some solenoids and such to save money.

Let me know what you come up with.
 

swampfox

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Jackson, Ms.
I was thinking of the same project. I recently acquired from govt. liq. a 1981 Chevrolet flight line tug. It's an '81 Chevy one ton truck shortened like the CJ10a jeeps. It has a 292 straight six, automatic transmission and has dually rear wheels. The engine has an air (smog) pump which is run off the fan belt. I wonder if this pump could supply the necessary air to run air brakes? Any other suggestions? I was thinking of obtaining one or two M105A1 or A2 trailers and converting them (1 3/4's of the two trailers spliced together and made tandem) to an electric/hydraulic dump trailer. This would be a really heavy-duty unit if it would work out. Another question about the M105A1 or A2 trailer--can the bed of these trailers be unbolted from the frame easily enough so that a hydraulic lift mechanism could be added underneath?
 

sweetk30

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horseheads,ny 14845
swampfox said:
I was thinking of the same project. I recently acquired from govt. liq. a 1981 Chevrolet flight line tug. It's an '81 Chevy one ton truck shortened like the CJ10a jeeps. It has a 292 straight six, automatic transmission and has dually rear wheels. The engine has an air (smog) pump which is run off the fan belt. I wonder if this pump could supply the necessary air to run air brakes? Any other suggestions? I was thinking of obtaining one or two M105A1 or A2 trailers and converting them (1 3/4's of the two trailers spliced together and made tandem) to an electric/hydraulic dump trailer. This would be a really heavy-duty unit if it would work out. Another question about the M105A1 or A2 trailer--can the bed of these trailers be unbolted from the frame easily enough so that a hydraulic lift mechanism could be added underneath?
that is a ( air pump ) not a air compressor. its for pumping fresh air in to the exaust only. no real pressure to run anything. and are comon for siezing up .
 
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