Could use help with broken brake hoses on my new m1088

[Reworked LMTV]

Hi guys!
Well after a month of delivery disasters, my m1088 FINALLY arrived

The passenger side rear brake air lines appear to have been snapped off for some reason. I need some opinions on the repair.

1. Would you have a new fitting pressed on the old hoses? (assuming it is in good condition). If not, where should I go for hoses?

2. I have never worked on air brakes before, just car brakes and a lot of them. Any general thoughts, like do's and dont's?

3. The air pressure relief valve goes off about every 20 seconds. Is this normal? It is loud and bit annoying after a while.

4. How hard are replacement diaphragms to find? Expensive?

It only took me an hour to figure out how to turn the headlights on LOL, Anyone replace these with LEDs or HID?

 

[snowtrac nome]

first off those hoses have to have a dot airbrake stamp on them you can get the hose and re usable fittings at your local napa store. Where the hoses go into the cans or come out of the frame do not change fittings if the fittings are straight replace them with like fittings it was engineered that way don't put 90's or 45's where they aren't supposed to be. What you have to remember is in an airbrake system there is nothing but dead space in your application line changing fitting styles or hose size or length will affect the amount of time it takes to apply the brakes. if you know nothing about air brakes talk with your napa dealer, they usually have little mini night classes on things like air brakes, I would bet you could find one locally in the next 12 months. there is a reason us commercial vehicle mechanics are required to hold an airbrake card to work on these systems, If I were you spending the couple hundred bucks to learn these systems in side out would be money well spent.

 

[juanprado]

The brass fittings are broken off in the brake chamber so those need to be easy out or replace the can. The hoses are probably crimped and would need to be replaced with a new crimped hose or as suggested you can get dot reusable fittings with the proper air brake hose.

If those fitting pointed down, I would suspect forklift damage or improper chain binder clearance or attachment point when shipped at some point.

With the system losing air due to the busted hoses, you will have other problems. Need to fix the integrity of the air system and go from there.

 

[Suprman]

I have all the parts for that

 

[Jeeperjoe]

do NOT just pull the cans off learn about spring brakes / air brakes first, there is a VERY powerful spring inside those cans

 

[gimpyrobb]

The fittings were probably broke off by a forklift operator. I would first try to remove the fittings using an "inside pipe wrench".
http://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-Inte...xD1dTwjFKvqjm43doOJJgaAgnZ8P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds

Then you could just install new fittings and dot air lines.

 

[98G]

do NOT just pull the cans off learn about spring brakes / air brakes first, there is a VERY powerful spring inside those cans

This needs emphasis. The spring is LETHAL.

INCORRECT DISASSEMBLY WILL KILL YOU DEAD! ! !

 

[Reworked LMTV]

sounds like I better handle it like a strut spring

 

[Reworked LMTV]

interesting! I thought I had every tool under the sun. This one I have never seen.

 

[Reworked LMTV]

This needs emphasis. The spring is LETHAL.

INCORRECT DISASSEMBLY WILL KILL YOU DEAD! ! !

Kill you dead says it all. Glad I asked : ) So does this spring by chance apply pressure to the wedges if air pressure is lost? Would make sense that it would be a powerful spring. Can I also assume that the allthread is used to unload the spring? I'm going to take a NAPA class like someone said.

 

[Suprman]

You put a caging bolt in the hole back of can and use it to compress the spring. You can replace the air lines in place. If you have good screwdrivers sometimes you can tap a flathead into the threaded piece broke off in the chamber and walk it out. The snapon screwdrivers with wrench spot below the handle work well.

 

[f8617]

...The passenger side rear brake air lines appear to have been snapped off for some reason. I need some opinions on the repair...I have never worked on air brakes before, just car brakes and a lot of them. Any general thoughts, like do's and dont's?...How hard are replacement diaphragms to find? Expensive?...the headlights on LOL, Anyone replace these with LEDs or HID?

1st check out Youtube videos of brake chamber spring danger.

To potentially save yourself time, money, and work. Don't assume the air brake chambers are bad. Use compressed air into the brake chamber ports to blow out possible debris. Liberally spray WD40 into the ports on all the brake chambers and in the two front & rear brake air tanks. Replace broke parts & re-plumb. Run engine to air-up brake system. Check for air leaks with soapy H2O. Don't assume hissing from a brake chamber means a bad diaphram. Cycle the service & park brake while moving the truck a little forward & backward. Repeat doses of WD40 into all the brake chambers several times, over several days, to fully loosen debris --giving the diaphrams better opportunity to seal properly. If hissing/air leaks persist, then consider having an expert replace diaphrams (Alternatively, expect to pay over $200 for new, complete rear axle air brake chamber -- which may not come loose from the axle housing without torching).

Also, the wedge adjustment (threaded) can become stuck. If so, take the brake drums off. You can usually clean & lube it enough so that it rotates (threaded), without removing the chamber from the axle housing.

Your headlights are 12volts, vice 24volts, unlike most other MVs. Trucklite's "multivolt" military LED headlight is a good upgrade (but expect to pay $250 each).

Use WD40 on rubber electrical connectors to help prevent cracks during disconnection. Use dielectric grease inside all electrical connections under the hood---to potentially solve temperature, pressure, voltage issues (jumpy or faulty gauge reading), prior to assuming your truck has a more serious problem.

 

[davidhdale]

Only pull brake chamber rear clamp when cagged by the t bolt on the side of the chamber .but if you change that might as well do a complete chamber

 

[1951M1078]

If "unsure" DON"T ! take anything apart ! GET HELP ! The spring in the can "Will" KILL YOU !

You can learn to do the repair but you must learn FIRST !

 

[snowtrac nome]

I will stand by the earlier statement get the required training, most modern spring brake pods cant be disassembled any more because of the dangers. in the long run you will finde it more affordable to buy the whole can rather than trying to buy the parts to put it together. if you know nothing about air brakes pay a professional or get training otherwise you can become the next hazard on the road.

 

[Reworked LMTV]

How much is a replacement Can from you?

 

[Reworked LMTV]

Good advice

 

[Suprman]

Do you need air lines too I have a parts tractor.

 

[Reworked LMTV]

Do you need air lines too I have a parts tractor.

No, just the can. I think I will have new fittings put on current lines at United Industrial Supply. I assume that the can is damaged since the air connection on the left side of the picture appears to be torn out.

 

[Reworked LMTV]

1st check out Youtube videos of brake chamber spring danger.

To potentially save yourself time, money, and work. Don't assume the air brake chambers are bad. Use compressed air into the brake chamber ports to blow out possible debris. Liberally spray WD40 into the ports on all the brake chambers and in the two front & rear brake air tanks. Replace broke parts & re-plumb. Run engine to air-up brake system. Check for air leaks with soapy H2O. Don't assume hissing from a brake chamber means a bad diaphram. Cycle the service & park brake while moving the truck a little forward & backward. Repeat doses of WD40 into all the brake chambers several times, over several days, to fully loosen debris --giving the diaphrams better opportunity to seal properly. If hissing/air leaks persist, then consider having an expert replace diaphrams (Alternatively, expect to pay over $200 for new, complete rear axle air brake chamber -- which may not come loose from the axle housing without torching).

Also, the wedge adjustment (threaded) can become stuck. If so, take the brake drums off. You can usually clean & lube it enough so that it rotates (threaded), without removing the chamber from the axle housing.

Your headlights are 12volts, vice 24volts, unlike most other MVs. Trucklite's "multivolt" military LED headlight is a good upgrade (but expect to pay $250 each).

Use WD40 on rubber electrical connectors to help prevent cracks during disconnection. Use dielectric grease inside all electrical connections under the hood---to potentially solve temperature, pressure, voltage issues (jumpy or faulty gauge reading), prior to assuming your truck has a more serious problem.

So my headlights are 12 volts? Interesting. I see some aftermarket Jeep 7" LED lights. Wonder if they would fit. About$88 each