CUCV headlight aiming bolt fix

[Barrman]

I have read several post in the past about those stupid plasic "nuts" the headlight aiming bolts screw into. The plastic threads strip if you look at them wrong and replacements from the "help" section of your local parts store are even worse.

My drivers side up/down screw "nut" stripped out a few months ago. I was driving along at night, hit a bump and the headlight was aimed at the bumper. I swapped it out with one from another Chevy truck I have. That one lasted a week. Another swap out with the same result. I was able to push the headlight back up and for the most part, it stayed that way on smooth roads.

I had to drive 60 miles home Wednesday night from the monthly LSMVPA meeting in Ausin. I reaimed the headlight before I left. The rotten Austin roads had it pointing down soon. I reaimed it again at a food stop and then when it went back down just made sure I stayed pretty slow the rest of my trip out in the middle of nowhere home. I was thinking that there had to be a better fix most of that drive.

There is. The screws are 7mm x 1.00. I didn't have a nut that size at home, or at work. None of the local auto stores in town did either. The NAPA 20 miles away did though. Just put it on behind the plastic part, use a 11mm wrench or 7/16" since they are the same size to hold it while you adjust the light like normal.

I drove across my field at a pretty good clip last night and down my dirt road looking for bumps and the light is still where I aimed it.

Hope this helps somebody.

 

[Barrman]

If you have one of these little plastic things break, just buy 4 of the 7 mm x 1.00 nuts. I didn't when I made the above post last month. Last night driving home, the passenger light decided to point at the front bumper. I will add nuts to all 4 adjusting screws now.

 

[OL AG '89]

I did the similar fix awhile back, not sure what size I used just "forced" a not on to the backside of the plastic thingy that resembles a nut.

Why is it, the older I get the more I have trouble with my N....s????

 

[aph1979]

I just did this. On my M1009 the bolts are 1/4-28 instead of standard M6 (7.00 mm x 1.00).

 

[Wolf.Dose]

M6 is 6 x .75 mm, thats why it is M6. M7 as standard only for Aircaft in Europe is 7 x .75 mm only. Befor WWII it was a standard bolt like on my DKW Sport 250, built in 1938.
Wolf

 

[jacksmad1]

Great idea to fix this. Just what I needed as my drivers side headlight stripped yesterday. Probably a good idea to put a drop of Loctite on the threads when through aiming to keep it from vibrating loose.

 

[Barrman]

The 1/4 nuts will start on the adjuster bolt. Then they can be forced to tighten. This will work in a pinch. However, the bolt is the 7mm x1.00. Use what you can get, but know it is a pain to force tighten that nut while reaching behind the grill and trying to keep a phillips driver from stripping out the head.

 

[aph1979]

1/4-20 (standard pitch) may have to be forced. 1/4-28 (fine pitch) went on using just my fingers. You may need the wrench when you're tightening against the spring though.

 

[Barrman]

Hmm, I tried both in a Check A Thread. 7mm x1.00 was the only one that fit by hand. I would guess that the 1/4 size was what GM used up until the "lets change over to metric one bolt at a time" idea came along. then 7mm x 1.00 was what they went to. I guess by the replies here that both can be found on a CUCV.

 

[rnd-motorsports]

the change was sometime in the early 80's I think! If you want better replacement parts skip the parts store with there cheap replacements and go to a larger body shop to get the better quality part! I get all my plastic body clips and such at the body shop and stay away from cheap crap the parts store sells!

 

[BIG_RED]

Thankyou! I 've been wondering what those threads were. I've been planning the same thing for a while, I'm not a fan of droopy headlights

 

[aph1979]

I'd recommend against using Loctite/stop nuts. I tried using stop nuts and almost stripped the Phillips head on the adjustment bolt. The tension against the spring works well enough to hold the nuts in place.

The only problem will be the passenger side. You might have to pull the front battery to reach them. I have rather skinny arms so I could wedge myself in there, but only just barely.

 

[Barrman]

I was able to get my fat hands in on the passenger side, but it was tight.

 

[ralbelt]

The metal that the aiming screws heads lock into was fatigued on mine allowing the screw heads to slip out. So I moved the left bucket to the right side and the right to the left. That gave me new/unused mounts for the side to side adjusters. The vertical adjusters needed strengthing so i cut out a few very small triangles from some scrap metal and welded to each side of the vertical head tabs. With new springs, screws, plastic nuts backed up with1/4-28 nuts nothing moves. Of course the buckets were also blasted and painted.

 

[lindyp38]

id love to see a picture of this set up......as both my headlights are drooping....

lol....

 

[ralbelt]

Thats on my list of things to do, learn how to post pictures.

 

[lindyp38]

ok..mine were fixed........i didnt need to remove battery....as my arm squeezed into the tight spot...........thanks for the help here.....

 

[Blood_of_Tyrants]

Jeez, you guys are doing it the hard way. Go to any auto parts store and look at the display with the replacement body screws and such. You can get a couple for a few bucks.