Dash pad Removal

[1986Blazerk5]

Does anybody know where in the manuals it says how to remove the dash pad, i looked but can't find it

 

[SouthernSteel]

Well im gonna say it shouldnt be hard not much in the way of holdin it on

First off im assumeing that the set up is basically like a civillain truck so phillips head screws across the top of the dash bezel have to come out as do small bolts i think are a 1/4 inch or 5/16 acroos the bottom of the dash pad going over the glove box maybe 4 or 5 and a big phillips head screw on the end u have to open the pass door to access that one a 90 degree screw driver works good its in the shape of a stretched s usally has a big end and a little end hope i helped a little

 

[lavarok]

What is it your having trouble with? Remove the black trim from the front of the instrument cluster, then remove the 4 small screws on the bottom lip of the dash pad, and remove the screw on the passenger side of the dash pad. It should slide right out.

When removing the black trim, it helps to remove the pull lever of the light switch. If you reach under the dash, there is a small button on the side of the switch. Pull out the lever, push in the button, and pull the lever out of the switch.

 

[SouthernSteel]

heres a shot of a civy suburban maybe it will help ya a general idea

 

[ralbelt]

I took mine off last summer I don't recall anything special about removing it, as stated above several screws across the front and some clips near the glass that you have to wiggle free.
I just dropped it off to have it hydrographic covered along with the door panels.

 

[MrBouncer]

If you have already removed your dashpad the nevermind. BUT if you havent when you loosen your black trim around the instruments be careful. In mine the the voltmeter is attached and has a short wire.

 

[Barrman]

Disconnect your batteries first! Undo all the screws holding the black gauge cover, then undo the screws across the bottom of the pad on the passenger side. Don't forget the screw on the end of the passenger side that you have to open the door to get to. Pull the pad up and back. It will now be stuck between the A pillars. Flex it a little and out it comes.

The black cover can just be left on the steering column hanging from the water and glow plug light wires while you pull the pad. However, the back of the volt meter is hot if the batteries are still hooked up. It will short out on the metal around the dash. Just like mine did last night when I pulled the gauges out for about the 5th time trying to make everything work just right. Fuse #12 which is the very bottom left red 10 amp one on the fues panel is the one that will blow. With it blown, the ALT 2 light will not come on and the gauge will not work. However, ALT 2 will continue to work.

 

[wallew]

Just pulled mine and reinstalled it in an hour or so a couple of days ago.

I had to find out what the problems I was having behind the dash. I even stripped the white instrument cluster down to bare plastic to finally find the problems with it. Two broken mounting tabs AND a broken post that the gear shift indicator wire wraps around - it had broken right off.

Small wonder my gear shift indicator no longer works. Gotta get a new one.

But truly, you will be surprised how easy it is.

DO NOT FORGET THE SCREW ON THE PASSENGER SIDE!!! You MUST open the door to remove that one. If you do not, attempting to remove the pad with that screw in place will damage the pad. Ask me how I know that. Barrman beat me to it. Man I'm slowing down.

I just got my correct Chevy color coded vinyl paint. I'll be pulling a Chevy gray dash pad and correct color door panels this next week in my M1028a2 dually, clean them with a paint specific cleaner, then spray at least three or four coats of vinyl paint on all parts. That will make them look pretty close to new.

NOTE: If you are not careful, the little 'grates' that cover the windshield defroster space will break - they are really fragile and if they fall out just right... Again, ask me why I know this. And don't lose any of the little metal spring clips under the dash, they are WAY important. Again, ask me why...

Good luck.

IT REALLY IS EASY. Honest.

=========================================

Sayings from this site that I love:

If it's rubber, replace it - If it's electrical, rebuild it

You can listen and learn and it's called 'an education'.
You can NOT listen and it's called 'experience'.

I have WAY too much experience.

 

[1986Blazerk5]

I took the dash pad off yesterday and it was very easy, i cleaned the instrument cluster and added Polk audio 3.5 inch speakers with Dynamat

 

[ralbelt]

Wallew, you can repair the gearshift indicator by taking a piece of wire [paper clip]heating it up and putting it threw the plastic to hold the indicator wire. Adjust the length of the paper clip to center indicator in desired position.

 

[wallew]

ralbelt,
MAN, that's flat genius. I WILL do that.

Thx a bunch. I can do that in a heart beat.

 

[1986Blazerk5]

Here is a pic of what my dash speakers look like installed. They are Polk Audio 3.5 inch, I would highly recommend adding the Dynamat for the dash, it made a HUGE difference in sound quality

 

[SouthernSteel]

Just pulled mine and reinstalled it in an hour or so a couple of days ago.

I had to find out what the problems I was having behind the dash. I even stripped the white instrument cluster down to bare plastic to finally find the problems with it. Two broken mounting tabs AND a broken post that the gear shift indicator wire wraps around - it had broken right off.

Small wonder my gear shift indicator no longer works. Gotta get a new one.

But truly, you will be surprised how easy it is.

DO NOT FORGET THE SCREW ON THE PASSENGER SIDE!!! You MUST open the door to remove that one. If you do not, attempting to remove the pad with that screw in place will damage the pad. Ask me how I know that. Barrman beat me to it. Man I'm slowing down.

I just got my correct Chevy color coded vinyl paint. I'll be pulling a Chevy gray dash pad and correct color door panels this next week in my M1028a2 dually, clean them with a paint specific cleaner, then spray at least three or four coats of vinyl paint on all parts. That will make them look pretty close to new.

NOTE: If you are not careful, the little 'grates' that cover the windshield defroster space will break - they are really fragile and if they fall out just right... Again, ask me why I know this. And don't lose any of the little metal spring clips under the dash, they are WAY important. Again, ask me why...

Good luck.

IT REALLY IS EASY. Honest.

=========================================

Sayings from this site that I love:

If it's rubber, replace it - If it's electrical, rebuild it

You can listen and learn and it's called 'an education'.
You can NOT listen and it's called 'experience'.

I have WAY too much experience.

Here is a pic of what my dash speakers look like installed. They are Polk Audio 3.5 inch, I would highly recommend adding the Dynamat for the dash, it made a HUGE difference in sound quality

Just somethings we all have to learn the hardway lol and it seems thats the only way i can learn im with ya wallew i think we both have way to much experience

86 blazer nice set up im in the process of doing a similar thing great pic

 

[pa.rich]

Thanks guys for the tips. On my K30 I have a new dash pad waiting and also a non working shift indicator. What has to be removed to get at the cable for the indicator. Been a little afraid to pull it apart.

 

[Barrman]

The shift indicator is just a cable from the pointer to a clip that goes onto the plastic cover on the column. Pull the metal and plastic covers off the bottom of the column. You should be able to see the cable and the clip just hanging there. If so, clip it back on. If it is clipped, the cable could be broken or the plastic pivot could be broken on the gauge cluster.

 

[cosmobius]

Thanks guys for the tips. On my K30 I have a new dash pad waiting and also a non working shift indicator. What has to be removed to get at the cable for the indicator. Been a little afraid to pull it apart.

Where did you get the new dashpad?

 

[wallew]

Any CHEVY OR GM dealer. It's still a listed part.

WARNING!!! It ain't cheap. Shipped to your Chevy or GM dealer in less than a week. It's about $650, depending on taxes in your area.

And you either need to pull your six spring steel clips that hold the dash FIRMLY in place.

Or pick up six more.

 

[cosmobius]

OUCH!

I have avoided looking at the dealer so far. i have found a few other less expensive options but i am sure they have their issues. I suppose i could always sell that kidney.

 

[wallew]

LMC trucks sell them. But they do NOT have the steel interior so it's floppy and will NOT hold up that well. And THEY are at least $350 - $400.

LMC used to sell the Chevy factory part but now they say they can no longer get them.

I don't know why. I guess they just basically decided that selling a factory dash pad that retails for $650 (don't forget to add in LMC's mark up) and it becomes a dash pad worth almost what some folks PAID for a K5 Blazer in bad shape.

 

[1986Blazerk5]

OUCH!

I have avoided looking at the dealer so far. i have found a few other less expensive options but i am sure they have their issues. I suppose i could always sell that kidney.

Here is a cheaper solution, below is a thread it did about it.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/56348-lmc-truck-dash-cover.html