Deuce brake drum

[Jim Metzler]

Is there a trick for getting the front brake drum off of my deuce?
I removed the wheel and the nuts that look like they hold the drum on but I can't pull it off.

 

[clinto]

Go read this, I think you will see your problem.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?t=8460


We have all the technical manuals for the M44 series available for download at no cost here on SS. You should check 'em out.

 

[Jim Metzler]

Looks good.. Thanks I was hoping to get away easy but this doesn't look bad.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Those bearings needed inspection and service anyways

 

[Jim Metzler]

Do you know which manual covers this procedures? Maybe I won't have to search as much.
Thanks

 

[Recovry4x4]

TM 9-2320-361-20 covers it!

 

[Jim Metzler]

Ok Thanks I'm giong to need a wheel cylinder or kit and what else? Any good parts sources? Hopefully local.

 

[FMJ]

TM 9-2320-361-20

Good Luck!

 

[FMJ]

Dang it Kenny...

 

[FMJ]

What exactly is the problem you are having?

 

[Jim Metzler]

I hane a leaky wheel cylinder om the left front. I pulled the wheel yesterday to start in replacing the wheel cylinder. I then removed the small nuts that appear to retain the brake drum. Now I can't pull the drum off. I think it's corroded / rusted in place.

 

[FMJ]

Does the drum require service?, and do you have access to a press? I may be wrong, but I think if you need to have the drum turned the hub and race's need to be installed?

 

[FMJ]

Jim, I'm in Las Cruces down the road a bit from you, 200 miles....But I do have a shop and brake parts. Napa sells a rebuild kit for the wheel cylinders, but I think they are closed today.

 

[Jim Metzler]

I don't have real good access to the drum right now but I don't think it needs to be turned. I can take a better look at that when I get the darn thing off. I don't have a press but can take my assembly to a friend's shop and press them apart. I was hoping for now to just fix the wheel cylinder and service the bearings later but it looks like the truck has other plans.

 

[Jim Metzler]

I will be doing good to get the hub assembly off today so getting parts today is not a big deal. I will be asikng more questions I'm sure. I am going to need a spare and lug wrench do you have any you want to get rid of?

 

[FMJ]

Let me know if you need anything! If you don't have a socket for the wheel bearing nuts, Napa also sells those, I'll put up a part number in a few...Some here will tell you to use a hammer and chisel to loosen/tighten the nuts, I've done it that way, but don't like it because you can't properly torque a nut with a chisel plus it leaves sharp edges to deposit DNA on....

 

[Jim Metzler]

I want to do it right if I can. I need to do some looking at the TM. Setting the bearing preload if that's the right term is one of my main concerns.

 

[FMJ]

Here's a pic of the socket I bought at NAPA..

 

[jimm1009]

i would suggest replacing the seals too but that is not a local purchase either.
i had seals sent in a 2 to 3 day envelope for $4.50 (or so) wich did arrive in two days.
you need to look at your brake shoes too. If they are saturated with brake fluid, you may need to replace them.
the torque is really important on both nuts.
read the tm but i think i remember that you go to 50 ft lbs., back off 90 degrees, and the the outer nut is around 150 ft. Lbs.
no way to torque it that tight by guessing.
a loose outer nut combined with bad safty on lock washer = outer nut backing off and hub loosening up. Very bad for bearings which are about $30 per set.
"love" your bearings and treat them well since there is a lot riding on them.
just my 1.2 cents worth.
above all, please ask questions if you can't find it because this is an important area of your truck.
ps: Examnine the bore of your wheel cylinder after honing.
4 of my 6 were still too bad so i replaced all 6 so i knew there would be no problems for a long time.

 

[Jim Metzler]

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