Deuce Flat Towing/Recovery Questions...

[nosliw]

I'm debating on whether to bid on a few trucks at auction locally. Previewed them yesterday. Most of them look to be "runnable" but I'm never one to really take a chance.

I plan on trying to flat tow the purchased deuce with my other deuce. I have the skills to fabricate a strong towbar.

Will I have a problem arriving in a military vehicle to pick up another military vehicle?

I want to plumb the air lines together so I will have brakes on the vehicle in tow. Other than a set of gladhands and hose, will I need to do anything else to the deuce in tow? i had heard of a check valve somewhere on the truck that may need to be removed.

Do i need to hook up the "emergency" gladhand line as well?

I plan on making a cable zip tied together that will allow me to run both air lines, and trailer connectors together so I'll hve brakes and lights. i was under the impression i would need to unhook the turn signal box on the truck in tow to prevent power backfeeding into the stop/turn circuit and illuminating all the lights at once.

Just trying to get all my ducks in a row for a recovery if need be.

Much thanks.

 

[FMJ]

I have flat towed many M35's with my M35. I have not needed to connect brakes to the tow, but it can be done by modifying a fitting on the airpack. I have picked up trucks on military bases with my Deuce without issue, just the normal registration/insurance. Be aware, some may take issue with bumper/unit markings on your tow rig, I painted mine over. As always, your mileage may vary. . .

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce-modification-hot-rodding/23611-airpack-modification-towing.html

 

[stumps]

Just curious, after you finish plumbing your air hoses between the two deuces, do you expect the towed deuce's brakes to operate when the towing deuce brakes operate?

They won't.

There are two trailer hoses on the back of the deuce. The emergency air supply, and the trailer brake air supply. The emergency air supply is just a connection to the air reservoir tanks. The trailer brake air supply is a source of air pressure proportional to how hard the brake pedal is pressed.

There is nothing in the deuce brakes that will allow them to be actuated by any means other than the brake pedal. If there were, they would be air brakes.

Please get out your -10 manual and look up the section on towing the vehicle.

-Chuck

 

[nosliw]

I was expecting them to work by feeding air into the rear connector, but looks like from the link in the previous post that the line at the air pack has to be modified and air pressure fed into it from the master truck. I thought it might be as simple as "plug and play".

After the addition of the shut off valve at the air pack, would plumbing air into the trailer connector be the same as feeding air pressure into this line? as i think about it, i don't think it will work.

Just curious, after you finish plumbing your air hoses between the two deuces, do you expect the towed deuce's brakes to operate when the towing deuce brakes operate?

They won't.

There are two trailer hoses on the back of the deuce. The emergency air supply, and the trailer brake air supply. The emergency air supply is just a connection to the air reservoir tanks. The trailer brake air supply is a source of air pressure proportional to how hard the brake pedal is pressed.

There is nothing in the deuce brakes that will allow them to be actuated by any means other than the brake pedal. If there were, they would be air brakes.

Please get out your -10 manual and look up the section on towing the vehicle.

-Chuck

 

[Warthog]

.... and trailer connectors together so I'll hve brakes and lights. i was under the impression i would need to unhook the turn signal box on the truck in tow to prevent power backfeeding into the stop/turn circuit and illuminating all the lights at once.

Just trying to get all my ducks in a row for a recovery if need be.

Much thanks.

To wire the lights together is very easy. You can buy the correct ends and make your own cable or make a temporary cable.

I have used this setup many time. Quick, simple and low cost.

Find an old 50ft 3-wire extension cord and cut the ends off.
Strip off 3in of the outer shell.
Strip the wires back about 1/2-3/4in
You can either solder or just twist the wires tight
Carefull insert the wires into the trailer plug.
B-left turn/stop
J-right turn/stop
E-tail light
Use the plug cover to hold the wires in place.
Disconnect the Cannon plug from the back of the turn signal switch

Repeat the wiring on the towing truck except the turn signal portion.

This will allow you to have lights on both vehicles.


Warthog

 

[stumps]

After the addition of the shut off valve at the air pack, would plumbing air into the trailer connector be the same as feeding air pressure into this line? as i think about it, i don't think it will work.

No, you have to feed the air directly into the airpack with a separate air line from the brake supply on the towing vehicle. The deuce's trailer brake line goes straight into a trailer brake air supply valve on the master cylinder/airpack.

Because there is no proportioning valve, the towed deuce's braking capabilities will depend on how its brakes are adjusted, the condition of the linings, tire size, etc.... They could be weak, they could be just fine, or they could skid the wheels.

Although they will probably be better than nothing, be prepared for them to be suboptimal.

-Chuck

 

[FMJ]

I guess nobody bothered to look at the link I posted regarding the brake mod for towing?

 

[Warthog]

I guess nobody bothered to look at the link I posted regarding the brake mod for towing?

I did. Great writeup. Thanks.

 

[nosliw]

FMJ,

yes. i looked at the link too. very informative writeup! thank you!


thanks guys for all the help. im only about 70 miles from the base. it shouldn't be all that bad to just drive the thing, but i'm the type of person that constantly thinks....."if it can happen, it will"

i may go ahead and mod for brakes after i get home. highly unlikely i'll have the need to flat tow it again, but you never know.

 

[FMJ]

FMJ,

yes. i looked at the link too. very informative writeup! thank you!


thanks guys for all the help. im only about 70 miles from the base. it shouldn't be all that bad to just drive the thing, but i'm the type of person that constantly thinks....."if it can happen, it will"

i may go ahead and mod for brakes after i get home. highly unlikely i'll have the need to flat tow it again, but you never know.

70 miles is a walk in the park. . . Drive it, if it craps out go for the flat tow. I've flat towed upwards of 290 miles with just the mil medium towbar, stick on lights, and safety chains.

 

[Green_gator]

These are some great helps for safely towing a deuce with a second one. I have one question on the wiring together of the brake lights. Does it have to go from the trailer receptacle on the tow vehicle to the trailer receptacle on the towed vehicle or could you go from the trailer receptacle on the tow vehicle to the cannon plug on the towed vehicle? Would require a much shorter length of cable that could come up over the hood of the towed vehicle and in either a side or front window.

 

[Warthog]

Easiest way is from trailer plug to trailer plug.

Looking at the wiring diagram it might work thru the turn signal cannon plug, but the 3-lever switch gets involved. YMMV

 

[rchalmers3]

To wire the lights together is very easy. You can buy the correct ends and make your own cable or make a temporary cable.

I have used this setup many time. Quick, simple and low cost.

Warthog, have you noticed if your method causes flickering lights on the towed rig?

I have neglected adding a dedicated ground cable on lighter towed equipment and the dodgy ground contact on the chains, ball and/or pintle caused the lights on the towed trailer to flicker.

If you say all is go, I'll follow your lead with the three conductor. After all, I am looking for some good news here!

Thank you for this excellent info!

Rick