Deuce Multi-fuel crankcase full of fuel - please advise over

[welldigger]

If you loosen all the injector hold down bolts and just unseat the injectors ( no need to pull them out), you can roll the motor over by hand from the fan. I did it today adjusting my valves. Way easier than barring the engine over by the jackshaft, and as you know, I'm always by myself.

How many times you gotta adjust those things? I think I'm going to make a tool to grab onto the harmonic balancer nut without having to pull the radiator. These engines aren't hard to roll. Just not a good way to do it with everything in place.

 

[Jeepsinker]

That's the last time I'll have to adjust them. No need to make a tool and all that, like I said, you can roll the motor over by the fan with one hand if you just pop the injectors loose. You don't have to remove the lines or anything, don't have to remove the retainer bolts, none of that. Just loosen them a few turns and pop the injectors loose and have fun. Way easy.
Not hard to reach the fan. It does only like to roll over toward the generator though, hard to turn the other way.

 

[welldigger]

Yes but if I build a tool I don't have to mess with anything. And it satisfies my urge to build another custom tool to later forget why I built it.

I seriously have a drawer full of custom made tools and I can't remember what half of them are for.

 

[Jeepsinker]

That's why I don't build tools anymore unless I absolutely have no choice.

 

[Mach830]

Thanks for this discussion..it's very helpful in many ways.

I've used the technique of loosening injectors for valve adjustment. It really does make things easier. always cracked the plugs on gas engines for same job.

Hoping we don't have to replace the supply pump (is it even available separately?).

Not scared of hard jobs..I'm an aircraft and (former) USAF engine mechanic and am capable of working without shelter on antique machinery in freezing rain, barehanded, half drunk, with the wrong tools and impossible-to-read Army manuals.

Maybe.

We'll need a good load of beer. - CK

 

[welldigger]

If it's the problem, there is a seal kit for the booster pump. Around $40 I think is what someone recently paid for one.

 

[Floridianson]

Thanks, digger. It would seem that dropping the IP is the simplest option.

Yes Mach830 dropping the IP is the way to go if you are not afraid of a little injection pump. Also gives you a chance to change out the 30 year old oil supply line.

Pulling the IP is in no way simple or easy, it requires quite a bit of work! I'd start with the orings on the HH and shut off shaft,that usually fixes it.
If you end up doing the booster pump,i think jacking the engine up to gain access would be way easier than pulling the IP.
Just my opinion,good luck.

Sorry Ray love you but no don't agree. Remove the IP

 

[m-35tom]

Then only place that fuel is on one side of an o-ring and oil on the other is the hydraulic head.
Remove and by-pass the FDC.
5 minute job.
Had same problem.
MHassett

Misleading information!! Replacing the 'O' rings on the HH is not a 5 minute job.
There are 2 more very common leak points and the HH rings probably would never leak 9 gallons of fuel. Almost certainly the booster pump oil seal.

 

[Jeepsinker]

That and the Fdc will fill a crankcase quickly. You need to bypass the Fdc regardless. If it isn't the failure point right now, it will be soon.