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deuce starter relay

DieselBob

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Arnold Maryland
Well I'm at a loss. Not sure what to tell you at this point. Would you be able to post a picture of the area around the starter. Maybe something will give us a clue as to how it is wired in your instance.
 

buck1013

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coldwater, ms
Thanks for your help Bob. The block is tapped for something to be mounted just above the starter. I looked at my buddy's deuce today, and the relay is in the proper position. Here's the deal. There are two wires coming from the wiring harness which have been spliced with two butt-end crimp connectors. Does not look gov. issue, but anything is possible. I have not traced them to see if they connect to my starter button. If they do, should they not be connected to the relay? If this is true, should I put the relay in its place? What would relay would you use if you were to put one on the machine? I know I ask a lot of questions, and I appreciate your help, but this thing is driving me nuts. I hope I have explained it well enough without using pics. I will post pics tomorrow if you that would help.
 

DieselBob

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Sounds like someone has tried bypassing the relay. I can't imagine that working very well sense it would most likely burn out the starter switch or wiring because it would be drawing a lot more amps than it was ever designed to handle. That's why the relay was there in the first place. Of course this is all guess work on my part. Every wire should have a metal tag on it to identify it. If they are still in place it might be fairly easy to figure what they have spliced to what and change it back to the correct hook up. I would definitely want to put the relay back in place.
 

buck1013

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I believe the relay is my entire problem. Too many amps through my switch, etc. Would the wire tags have the same number at each end (assuming they have not been tampered with)? By the way, I isolated my batteries and they both have plenty of voltage. I am getting 25 volts at the connection to the starter. When I try and jump the starter (wire from 24 volt to post on solenoid where the ignition wire hooks to) nothing happens. My grounds all ohm out fine. Today, my accessory switch started acting up. Not sure what is going on in there, but this is a new problem. I am going to take it all off tomorrow, check the starter and solenoid, check the acc switch.
 

DieselBob

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99.98% of the time they have the same tag number. There seem to be a couple that do change from one end to the other. As far as I can see none to do with the starter circuit. The master switch acting up could have to do with a large current draw sense it feeds the starter button.
 
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buck1013

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coldwater, ms
Cranked Deuce Lee yesterday. It was an easy fix once I acquired a good wiring diagram (thanks bob). Attach wire "10" here and there ... attach wire "74A" here and "74" there, etc. and whola. All six cylinders bangin. Magnetic relay was the whole problem. $$$, time, and a little wisdom is all it takes, and when we can find a way to maintain without the $$$, we will all be in better shape
 

halftrack

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New Orleans, LA
You do not need the starter relay. The Army starter tossing or by-passing these things long ago. They are not needed and its just another thing to break. About 90 percent of my trucks (about 20 trucks over a course of 8 years.) from GL didn't have one or they were by passed entirely.
 

dabtl

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Denton, Texas
You do not need the starter relay. The Army starter tossing or by-passing these things long ago. They are not needed and its just another thing to break. About 90 percent of my trucks (about 20 trucks over a course of 8 years.) from GL didn't have one or they were by passed entirely.

I have to disagree. I think it was more a lack of maintenance at the end of the deuce life span with the military. The relay was there for a purpose, it worked and could be bypassed either by necessity or sloth in maintenance.

I had a relay make me crazy until I figured out what was wrong with it and replaced it.

buck13 should replace his missing
relay for dependable service.
 

cranetruck

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Meadows of Dan, Virginia

I have to disagree. I think it was more a lack of maintenance at the end of the deuce life span with the military. The relay was there for a purpose, it worked and could be bypassed either by necessity or sloth in maintenance.

I had a relay make me crazy until I figured out what was wrong with it and replaced it.

buck13 should replace his missing
relay for dependable service.
Correct, you don't run 35-40 amps through the start switch. According to the spec, the solenoid relay (on the starter motor) can run up to 75 amps and still be within design limits.
 

buck1013

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coldwater, ms
I did replace my start relay, and it solved my problem. I could have just kept replacing master switches, starters, and start buttons, but that would get pricey. The entire problem with bypassing the relay is the "push back" of amps when engaging the starter. The easiest way to see this as fact is to bypass the relay, remove the harness from the starter button, and short it out. You will see, eventually, blue sparks, and red flames. This is due to the amount of amps coming back through the wiring harness... correct? The button is not designed to handle it. Also, by bypassing the relay, my master switch malfunctioned and after the hissing and popping behind the dash, on was off, and off was on, if you know what I mean. The engine starting system was designed with that safeguard in place, and the only good way to address the problem is to replace what was assumed to be extra parts. I assumed my .50 cal was empty until I was missing my head!!!:driver:
 
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