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deuce steering box

frank8003

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Can the M35A2 Deuce steering box be removed and replaced without moving the engine and \or the hydraulic head fuel mechanisms? I need to know if it has been done before I get it half done only to find I have to move the engine.
I add pictures for the General.
 

HanksDeuce

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I pulled my deuce steering box without touching the engine mounts or injection pump.

1. Pull the pitman arm off. Autozone had a puller I borrowed.
2. Drain the steering box.
3. Remove the steering column. (may not be required for you, but mine was already out)
4. Temporarily remove the 2 brass elbows on the bottom of the injection pump.
5. Disconnect the air compressor discharge line.
6. Unhook the horn line.
7. Unbolt the steering box cover (inner half next to the engine).
8. From under the deuce reach around the frame and bump the steering shaft.

I am in the process of installing a Waterloo Specialties power steering kit, and this is what I did to remove my deuce factory steering. I didn't have a steering wheel puller so I cut the upper steering column off.

Good luck!
 

dabtl

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I finally loosened the front engine mounts on mine. I suspect it varies on vehicle to vehicle what you do.

NickD had an article in MV Magazine on this. I did everything he did. No luck. I suspect that there is some variance in the engine location due to different manufacturers and quality control.

I did find disassembling the gear box in the truck helped a lot, along with the steering column.

I did this a few years ago, but I still recall it was not a lot of fun.
 

hndrsonj

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I've done a couple. I just removed them in pieces. On a gasser they come out very easy in one piece.
 

m816

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Removal of the powerpack greatly facilitates any work on the steering box. The powerpack litterly takes minutes to remove if you have a lifting device. Of course life is sooo much easier with a wrecker. Work on these trucks always requires the removal of something else before you can work on what needs to be worked on. Just yank the powerpack and save all the sweat and pain. You will have to do it eventually. If nothing else it will give you the oportunity to get friendly with a wrecker owner and even paint the inside of the frame while you have it open. Wouldn't that be nice?
 

hndrsonj

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Everyone talks about taking the box out in pieces. How do you put it back in? In pieces? So we have to assemble it in the truck?
Yes, reinstall in pieces. I would never consider pulling an engine just to remove the gearbox.
 

m-35tom

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the very worst is quite easy, remove the 2 bolts for the front mount and slide the front of the engine over to the right. the rad is on the engine mount so it goes as well. you only need to move it a little, maybe an inch, and not in every case.
 

dabtl

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the very worst is quite easy, remove the 2 bolts for the front mount and slide the front of the engine over to the right. the rad is on the engine mount so it goes as well. you only need to move it a little, maybe an inch, and not in every case.
That works as well as moving the engine an inch or so to the side. But, first try NickD's method. It might work perfectly on your truck.
 

m16ty

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the very worst is quite easy, remove the 2 bolts for the front mount and slide the front of the engine over to the right. the rad is on the engine mount so it goes as well. you only need to move it a little, maybe an inch, and not in every case.
This is what I'd do. IMO it's a lot easier to remove the front engine mount bolts than it is to disassemble the box to get it out. There's a couple of cover bolts that can still be a pain to get out disassembling the box
 

197thhhc

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Replaced one in the dirt at Haspin last year. Not horrible. The engine will jack way up. No need to disconnect the radiator and we didnt disassemble the box but we had to do a little firewall modification that we welded back up later.
 

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m16ty

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That thing looks like a death trap to me with the people under the jacked up truck. I doubt that "cribbing" would stay under there if it fell of the high lifts. Glad nobody got hurt. :grd:
 

Wildchild467

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If all else fails, maybe removing the dash would help too because it might give more wiggle room for the long steering box tube. i know its a lot of work, but its food for thought. WHen i took mine out, it was a pain. i had to jack my engine up and use a porta power to push the engine around some. not fun. but i do have new steering box bushings and no leaks now! :D
 

hndrsonj

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If all else fails, maybe removing the dash would help too because it might give more wiggle room for the long steering box tube. i know its a lot of work, but its food for thought. !
Why not just remove the shaft? It takes 5 minutes.
 

197thhhc

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That thing looks like a death trap to me with the people under the jacked up truck. I doubt that "cribbing" would stay under there if it fell of the high lifts. Glad nobody got hurt. :grd:
The high lifts were just leaning on the bumper. The cribbing was all that held it. You gotta do what you gotta do when your stuck in the woods.
 

Wildchild467

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Why not just remove the shaft? It takes 5 minutes.
Yes, that would be easier then. When i first took my steering box out, i was not sure that i could do that, so i fought with it. live and learn. i did have to change the outer tube on my deuce when i crashed it. the important part there when putting a different tube on it is making sure the bearing preload is correct. i covered that in my thread "Totaled Deuce".
 
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