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Deuce that is slow to start.

Eastside VFD

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Marietta OK
My fire department has a 67 multi fuel that take forever to start. The wait to start buzzer takes 3 to 5 min to stop. I'm in southern OK shouldnt have to wait THAT long. Any ideas? Also looking for TM-9-2320-290-20. HELP Please.
 

gunboy1656

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Beaver Falls, PA
There is no wait to start buzzer on a deuce, that I have ever seen. The buzzer you hear is the low air pressure warning. And the TM's for the deuce are under the resources tab above.
 

Capt.Marion

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Atlanta, GA
The "Wait to Start" Buzzer is a low air buzzer that automatically shuts off when the air pressure in the air lines and air tank reaches about 60 PSI. I usually start my truck and let it idle about 700 RPM, and it takes about 1-2 minutes to reach around 60 PSI to where the buzzer shuts off...

Have you read TM 9-2320-290-10, the operator's manual? Give it a read, all the way through.
 

Wildchild467

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The only buzzer on a deuce is the low air buzzer. after the truck starts it may take a little while for the buzzer to turn off, mine us usally about 2 minutes or so at 1000rpm. check the rear glad hands....i found air leaks there on mine before. i will be switching them to ball valves soon.
 

mhassett

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Bush, LA
Buzzer will buzz untill 60 PSI air pressure is reached.
If the engine is difficult to start, I would look at the fuel system. Make sure all lines are tight, no leaks or kinks. Is the in tank pump running? Check fues on top of fuel tank.
Check fuel filters and make sure they are clean.
 

TexAndy

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Bee County, Texas
Honestly, it takes me long enough to get the truck turned around, backed out, and otherwise manuevered to the gate, that I just ignore the buzzer. Pressure is usually up by the time I'm ready to roll onto the public street.
 

Capt.Marion

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Honestly, it takes me long enough to get the truck turned around, backed out, and otherwise manuevered to the gate, that I just ignore the buzzer. Pressure is usually up by the time I'm ready to roll onto the public street.
You do realize you're supposed to let the truck idle at (and I quote) No more than 1000 RPMs for at least 5 minutes before proceeding? It's to make sure the turbo charger gets properly lubricated (pressurized oil gets to it) before you start it spinning too fast. There's a plate that's supposed to be on the dash that says that. (Although I will admit my truck is missing it). I will also admit that I only wait until the buzzer goes off before rolling out-usually not the full 5 minutes.
 

mikeroot2

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Argentine/Michigan
My deuce cranks for a while now that my in tank pump quit working. Shut your truck off after it builds over 60 PSI and the buzzer quits, then turn the on/off switch to on. You should be able to here the electric in tank pump running. If not that is probably the problem. My truck starts quicker the higher the level in the fuel tank. Have a new pump, just haven't gotten around to changing it yet.
 

KaiserM109

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... check the rear glad hands....i found air leaks there on mine before. i will be switching them to ball valves soon.

Ditto. My '66 had rubber as hard as a rock in the glad hands. I got replacement rubber at a local truck shop.

If it really is hard to start, start by checking your fuel pump. A truck with good fuel lines and no air in them can run on the boost pump on the injector pump. Any air in the lines can make it hard for it to suck fuel. When I ran mine out of fuel once, that was my first clue that I had a dead in-tank pump.

Arlyn
 

rosco

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If the in tank pump is bad/not working, it will crank a long time, before it starts, if it does at all. My problem was that the pump motor ran, but didn't pump. You can usually put a pressure gauge in the system, to see ho well it is working, or just crack the bleeders on the secondary filters, with the accessory switch ON. Fuel should gush out of them.
 

gimpyrobb

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My deuce cranks for a while now that my in tank pump quit working. Shut your truck off after it builds over 60 PSI and the buzzer quits, then turn the on/off switch to on. You should be able to here the electric in tank pump running. If not that is probably the problem. My truck starts quicker the higher the level in the fuel tank. Have a new pump, just haven't gotten around to changing it yet.
That doesn't mean the pump is pumping. Some times the bottom plate falls of and then your SOL, you need to pull the pump to replace the bottom cover.
 

KaiserM109

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If the in tank pump is bad/not working, it will crank a long time, before it starts, if it does at all. My problem was that the pump motor ran, but didn't pump. You can usually put a pressure gauge in the system, to see ho well it is working, or just crack the bleeders on the secondary filters, with the accessory switch ON. Fuel should gush out of them.

If your in-tank pump is dead it can still run and start great as long as there is no air in the lines. Before I let air into the lines by running it out of fuel, it started before the engine even made a single turn. If you crack the bleeders on the top of the filters and the in-tank pump is dead, you will definitely let air in, but it sounds like you have problems anyway.

If this is a critical vehicle, which I hope an M35A2 isn’t, go the distance and put in a good pump from Olympic. Search this website for threads.

I have a certified tank inspector who will work cheap. A little ice cream and he’s happy.
 

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John S-B

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Ostrander, Ohio
My fire department has a 67 multi fuel that take forever to start. The wait to start buzzer takes 3 to 5 min to stop. I'm in southern OK shouldnt have to wait THAT long. Any ideas? Also looking for TM-9-2320-290-20. HELP Please.
Your VFD SHOULD NOT be running that truck if you don't have the proper manuals and training for your Firefighters. I'm on a fulltime FD as well as a paid on call VFD. Our VFD requires that each FF receives 6 hours of drive time and operations on EACH truck BEFORE they can take it on an emergency run. This is especially important if it's a tanker, and CRITICAL if it doesn't have baffles in the tank! There are many cases of surplus deuces being used as fire equipment and having fatal accidents because of little or no drivers training. Safety first! (Can your VFD take the financial hit because of an accident?)
Having said that, does that truck have a turbo? The point about frying the turbo may be a good reason to justify newer equipment (if there's money to do it) since it needs a little time to get lube.
If the air bleeds off, you can either make sure someone runs it often enough to maintain pressure, or you could plumb in an Kussmaul auto-eject air line to a compressor. (You should have a compressor and auto-ejects on all your equipment to reduce your response times.)
 

mikeroot2

Member
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Location
Argentine/Michigan
That doesn't mean the pump is pumping. Some times the bottom plate falls of and then your SOL, you need to pull the pump to replace the bottom cover.
You're absolutely right Gimpy. That doesn't mean it's pumping. But if it's not running it definitely isn't pumping. Just a quick place to start.
 
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