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Deuce Wiring

rmesgt

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Howdy all.... I was wondering if any of you deuce owners considered changing your existing black and numbered wires with colored wires. Many of my wires are frayed and broken and I thought I might slowly replace my old wires with new, colored wires. Since I have both an M1008 and an M1009, I thought I would use the same color coding as Chevrolet used in my CUCV's. Fortunately, there aren't that many wires in a deuce and I don't have to change them all at once. I do have all of the parts to put military plugs/shells on any replacement wires I choose to use. With this in mind, it would be a simple process to add relays for the lights or a spade style fuse block for any 12V stuff I might want to (Radio, GPS, USB Port, Etc).

Thoughts anyone??

Peace in Christ...
Leo
 

rmesgt

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rmesgt

Well-known member
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Location
Grove, Oklahoma
I suppose I don't really need it. I was really considering my CUCV situation. All of the lights on my M1008 and M1009 run thought a single 30 Amp fuse, which will occasionally blow, primarily due to the amperage draw on the headlights. The solution to removing the primary demand on that fuse is to install a system of relays, lowering the current draw across the fuse. Not sure that it is necessary for a deuce though...
 

G744

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The stock wiring for lighting is #14, and will support 70/75 Watt H4 halogen headlights along with a bunch of tail & marker lights.

BTW, the numbering system on the wiring in M-series tactical and armor vehicles is the same, regardless of the vehicle application. Once you get used to it, it comes easy from memory.
 

rmesgt

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I haven't yet had to work with the wiring, so I don't have the exposure with the numbering system. I think it is an amazing system especially since the wires are tagged at both ends. It seems that it would be easy to know which wire your dealing with, what it does, where it goes, and NO METER required. I am sure with exposure, I will get the hang of it...
 

Barrman

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The CUCV problem is probably more the fuse holder on that very bottom spot of the panel than anything else. Some of mine did the same thing until I cleaned that up. Now I would guess it has been over 10 years since I have blown any fuses or lost lights. I also installed the LMC headlight relay on all my GM trucks too.

The M truck wiring really is a joy to work on in comparison once you get into it. I can’t find the exact site I downloaded and printed from in the past tonight. But, it was like this except free:


I have a printed list in every truck just in case.

If you aren’t planning to add ac, stereo and such. I agree with those above and suggest new wiring harness and go. Also realize the actual work of changing out the harness will be an extended isometric exercise program. 1 arm 3 minute pushups in the engine compartment and half up stomach crunches for underneath work. Enjoy!
 

rmesgt

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You can buy a complete front and rear harness for your truck easier than going thru that mess of wiring a bit at a time.

An example:

I did indeed purchase a new front wiring harness, the same on listed in the link (5995-00-076-6001, PN 10896819). Super excited to get it and today was the day it arrived. As I compared the new harness to the existing one in the truck, I found a plethora of differences. I can probably overcome most of the confusion by going one step at time, but some of the differences are rather severe. I realize this harness will fit several trucks and configurations, so not all of the ends will be used. However, I cannot locate a plug for the in-tank fuel pump and I noticed the main wire from the alternator on the truck is labeled #2, but the alternator wire on the new harness is labeled #5. Insights anyone?? Have any of you run into this problem? Please advise.... TIA

Peace in Christ...
Leo
 

WillWagner

The Person You Were Warned About As A Child
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There is also a nice CAD wiring diagram here on SS,


As well as the number chart,

 

msgjd

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Since the wiring systems on all the "M-series" military trucks are of the same numbering system and AWG size, (CUCV-types aside), I had a situation before the days of multi-volt LED's when I first paired an M818 with a civilian 48ft trailer loaded with numerous 12V lights.. (easily modified to series-parallel circuits).. The first time out at night with that modified setup I lost all lights a few miles from destination, fortunately on a very-remote secondary road with no traffic.. I was able to alternate between blackout drive and service drive to finish the haul.. The (automatic reset) circuit breaker would cool and allow a minute or two of normal lights before tripping out again. Sometimes longer, sometimes not.

It led me to believe the breaker had weakened during the trip and now couldn't handle the load but briefly because military trailers don't have as many lights as this box trailer did. The next day, I could not get it to trip while sitting in the yard.. A clamp-on ammeter showed acceptable draw, so I inspected the circuits and found a chafed wire under the cab in a tight spot where an intermittent short could occur. And that was the end of it. Hauled that trailer many years with both my M818's with no electrical issue since. A few years ago when i obtained a FLD-120, I swapped most all my trailers to multi-volt LED's so I could put anything up front without swapping lamp connections.

The moral of the story, you already have a beyond-adequate electrical system for what the truck is, and more.

Some people want 12V goodies in the cab and got themselves a converter.. I had one for a long time in a Cat 12F grader (24V) without any issue. It ran a 2-way radio, CB, and AM/FM/Cassette for days on end, even when shut down sitting in the garage with it on all day. The draw was minimal.

A cheap alternative (and I can already hear the groans out there) is to make a fused lead off one of the batteries to feed the 12V goodie, swap the feed to the other battery on occasion depending on how much you play it. We aren't gonna hear a radio good enough to enjoy while driving a deuce anyway. We should just want to listen to its own music ;)
 
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msgjd

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upstate ny
View attachment 919579

Food for thought, you could wire one of these style panels in easily, the buttons under the switches are circuit breakers, so each switch has its own, and the switches are 12v and 24v capable. Marine grade, so water proof, uv resistant, etc. Not the cheapest route, but one of the safest.
I can understand the bilge pump switch being needed during and after fording , but do you use the "anchor" button in case of brake failure ?
Just curious :p
 
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