deuce won't idle cold on oil mix

[schnackj]

I'm having an issue with the idle on my a2 after I put some oil in the fuel. I spent a good deal getting a centrifuge cleaning system set up and for my first test ran about 15 gallons of oil through it, passed that through a 10 micron filter/water separator and mixed it in the tank with about 15 gallons of diesel. I immediately noticed something was wrong as it was not wanting to idle cold. It would start fine and die in a matter or 5 seconds. I could pull the hand throttle and it would run at 1000 rpm and after driving it around a while it would idle fine once the engine was warmed up. I thought it could be the fuel filters so I replaced all of them and that didn't help. I took it on a trip and it seemed to run and drive just fine. It idled just fine before I put any oil in the tank and now I'm at a loss.

the FDC is still hooked up and besides jatonka oil filters I have done no other mods to the engine. the engine is a ltd-1D and has ~9k miles

Any Ideas?

 

[Bowtie70SS]

I would try bleeding the system. I got air in mine one time when I cranked it with the stop pulled.

 

[Ford Mechanic]

By pass the FDC and manually adjust it. There is a real good thread on it in the sticky portion at the top of the duece section. I run up to 80%WMO at times or like right now less than 10%WMO no issues with th FDC by passed. Not uncommon for cold start issues clear after bypassing, mine always starts fast even when 25*F outside, running WMO, and no starter fluid. Also adjust your idle up to 800rpm, also helps with engine vibrations from shaking your headlight fliaments out. Another good tip is to get more power instead of adjusting on the FDC adjuster after the initial adjustment is to adjust the droop screw 1/4 turn CCW. I've found a pyrometer to be a very valuable tool for calibrating my truck for WMO burning and keeping me from causing damage, definatly something I would recomend. And last but not least change that 10 micron filter out or add another one for a 2 micron filter. The stock ones on the truck are 5 microns and are harder to change, more expencive, take longer to get, clog at very inopertune times, yadda yadda yadda.... Good insurance to have very clean WMO and then it won't damage your IP if they clog or have big stuff get in it. Lots of info in the Alt. Fuels section that can help you also!

Good luck,
Mike

 

[Ford Mechanic]

2 very good threads that cover alot!
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?53010-how-to-turn-up-fuel-in-pictures#top

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?26917-Fuel-Density-Compensator-by-pass

 

[wreckerman893]

Remember this: The longer the truck runs the warmer the fuel in the tank get due to excess fuel being returned to the tank via the return line. Warm fuel is thinner than cold, especially if you are running heavy oil like WMO or WVO. When I was running my "Deuce Juice" mixture I noticed the truck ran a lot better after it had been running hard for a few miles. Just my experience, your milage may vary.

 

[DeucesWild11]

I never run straight WMO, I always cut with some gasoline. I have a guy now that services boats that gives me all the bad gas I need to cut my WMO, it goes through the filters much easier and is less stressful on your fuel pump. I'm no expert in this field but that's just my

 

[schnackj]

thanks, I have my pyrometer and was planning on putting it in tomorrow, I think I will see how well I can do turning up the fuel a small amount and may bypass the the FDC if that doesn't work

 

[doghead]

Mixing in the tank is not the best choice.

 

[Jeepsinker]

Yep, particles will settle out in the tank when the truck sits. Bad juju.

 

[panshark]

I've had that problem before as well, I could barely pull 4th gear high after adding in some WMO. Luckily, I left enough room in the tank so that I could stop at a gas station, add some gasoline to thin out my fuel. Think about it, you've got a thick fluid, passing through 3 thick filters, with a mechanical fuel pump sucking it to the engine, and an electric pump in the tank pushing it to the engine. There's a lot of fuels available that can thin out your mixture, with gasoline being the most abundant. Also, your problem may get worse as the weather gets colder.

 

[Ford Mechanic]

I've had that problem before as well, I could barely pull 4th gear high after adding in some WMO. Luckily, I left enough room in the tank so that I could stop at a gas station, add some gasoline to thin out my fuel. Think about it, you've got a thick fluid, passing through 3 thick filters, with a mechanical fuel pump sucking it to the engine, and an electric pump in the tank pushing it to the engine. There's a lot of fuels available that can thin out your mixture, with gasoline being the most abundant. Also, your problem may get worse as the weather gets colder.

Don't exceed 25% gas though, your o'rings can't handle it unless you've replaced them with viton??? Not sure on the spelling, check the alt fuels section for more on that. Beyond Biodiesil did a well writen study on the o-rings.

 

[panshark]

FM speaks the truth on this one. (And I think he's right on the spelling!) Swapping out the o-rings on the flame heater nozzle--or bypassing the manifold heater by capping off the nozzle--is necessary if you're going to be concocting your own fuels. Seems to me the Stubbs has warned about handling used Viton (or Kelrez) o-rings with your bare hand, something about the flourine released from the ring after being burnt that will cause serious harm to your hand bones, due to absorption.

 

[SETOYOTA]

I think your problem is due to not using diesel as your fuel.

 

[brianp454]

I have a similar issue that I've had since getting the truck. It fires right up and either idles real low (vibrating like crazy) or dies. I also notice a significant variance in drivability - sometimes it runs great with extra power and sometimes it's gutless. I slow a bit on light grades and get down to 40MPH or so on heavy grades, like I-5 N at Capital\Barbor area (long, heavy grade). It idles fine after a minute or so of ~900RPM idle using the hand throttle. It also seems like it runs better when very warm or just after a fillup if it was ran earlier in the day. It seems like it doesn't have the idle problem as bad if I run the lift pump for a few minutes beforre starting it up (may be my imagination). I've posted on here in other threads and get the same feedback. My setup:
LDT-465 with C turbo that was rebuilt ~93, ~1600 hours
JATonka filters all around that have been replaced (the fuel was clean beforehand)
POP tested my injectors (all OK, it's on youtube)
Running #2 with ~15% bio, it's all you can find in the Portland area (that I know of)
Added peashooter gage box with pyro with thermocouple pre-turbo and boost gage (I get up to 7psi boost at high RPM when it runs good, 4psi or less when it runs bad)
Little to no smoke unless I goose it at idle
Just installed 365/80R20's after flipping hubs and rebuilding the rear axles (new seals, cleaned brakes and all that). It seems to go down the road a bit easier now

The weather has been crappy here lately, so I haven't been able to do much. Hopefull in the next couple days I'll bypass the FDC and see what happens. I also ordered new semi-translucent lines so I can try to look in and see if there are air bubbles getting fed around. My original lines are caked with green paint like I suspect most of them are.

I'm having an issue with the idle on my a2 after I put some oil in the fuel. I spent a good deal getting a centrifuge cleaning system set up and for my first test ran about 15 gallons of oil through it, passed that through a 10 micron filter/water separator and mixed it in the tank with about 15 gallons of diesel. I immediately noticed something was wrong as it was not wanting to idle cold. It would start fine and die in a matter or 5 seconds. I could pull the hand throttle and it would run at 1000 rpm and after driving it around a while it would idle fine once the engine was warmed up. I thought it could be the fuel filters so I replaced all of them and that didn't help. I took it on a trip and it seemed to run and drive just fine. It idled just fine before I put any oil in the tank and now I'm at a loss.

the FDC is still hooked up and besides jatonka oil filters I have done no other mods to the engine. the engine is a ltd-1D and has ~9k miles

Any Ideas?

 

[schnackj]

Yeah I've been waiting for the torrent of rain to stop, I'll get to play with it some this weekend. My pyrometer is also MIA in the mail somewhere which is frustrating.

 

[mhassett]

My FDC is by-passed, and I run 90-100% WMO. Filter with 25, 10, 2 micron filters.
Starts and idles fine. Runs strong and smooth.
MHassett

 

[schnackj]

I bypassed the FDC today and that fixed the problem, thanks guys

 

[brianp454]

Me too! The extra power is amazing! I can pick up speed even in 5th on heavy grades. I made a video of it (the process) and will likely post it to Youtube. My EGT's are usually the same as before, yet can jump when running hard up long heavy grades in 5th High. EGT's back down to normal just after I lay off of it. Boost usually peaks at 10-11 psi, but I can get it up to 12 if I know I'm running it harder than I should (did it just to check). Should have done this long ago.

I don't think it is really necessary to turn down the fuel after bypassing the FDC provided you learn when to get out of it. What do you guys think? I also posted a video on youtube and posted to the Sticky turning up the fuel thread