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Diesel shop says I have bad injectors, need help

K9Vic

Active member
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Fort Worth, TX
I just bought a M1010 and it was running poor and gray smoke and took it to the local diesel shop that specializes in just diesel repair. They want allot of $$$ to fix it and I do not want to pay more then the truck is worth for something so simple as injectors. I did search and saw that many of you have done this repair themselves and I am good with a wrench. It shows 19k miles on the OD and recently had the fuel injector pump and intake manifold replaced. It is converted to 12v and has a fuel manager filter system and not the OEM filter.


Is it best to just change one at a time to keep the air pockets to a minimum?
Is this a repair I can do my self, or does it help to have a second person to prime the fuel when I have them replaced?
I was told you have to change the whole bank at a time if there is one injector that is bad, is this true? (Of course if I did it myself, I would change them all)


Thank you in advanced for any help you can provide me with!!!:-D
 

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ctmustang

Member
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Location
Thomasville-N.C.
Most definately you can do it yourself. Changing injectors on the 6.2 is rather easy and while you're at it go ahead and change them all. These trucks sit for alot of their lives and all kinds of things can happen to injectors.
C.T.
 

southdave

Active member
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ripley, oh/TDY Lordstown,Oh
I just bought a M1010 and it was running poor and gray smoke and took it to the local diesel shop that specializes in just diesel repair. They want allot of $$$ to fix it and I do not want to pay more then the truck is worth for something so simple as injectors.


Thank you in advanced for any help you can provide me with!!!:-D
Did wear I dress when you went down to thier shop? LOL it easy just wait awhile get all the info you neeed plus read the tm's search the net ect make plan and notes it make it easier ect....
 

davidkroberts

Active member
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Location
west tennessee
just for the fun of it throw a can of Seafoam or so in the tank. The stuff works wonders, at best it might clear out your problem...big maybe..... at worse it will clean everything before you put the new injectors in. Might as well clean the system as much as possible before putting the new stuff in.
 

ralbelt

Active member
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Location
West Warwick, R.I.
Leave the feed tube fittings slightly loose on all the injectors and crank the engine over a few times. When you see fuel at the fittings tighten them up.You can do it solo.
 

K9Vic

Active member
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Location
Fort Worth, TX
Thanks all, does not seem like it is that complicated even looking in the Chilton book it seems simple as it covers like a 1/2 page. Last major repair I did on a car was replace the intake manifold on a Ford 4.6L, so I am good with a wrench. I have torque wrench and standard 30mm 12p socket, but should I buy the special 30mm socket? I will get my M1010 back Friday afternoon and probably start on this repair after the holidays.
 

zout

In Memorial
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Columbus Georgia
Man made it - man can fix it - go for it.

Good info on the Sea Foam products - the trans tune part # is TT-16 and the motor treatment is part #SF-16. Sea Foam been around since 1942 and their products are awesome. Just an end user of their products and not a vendor or dealer for them - just so I do not get hammered for bringing this up.
 

doghead

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I recently purchased and used 2 cans of Sea Foam fuel additive. I have read good things about it. I usually just use 911 red or white containers, as a maintenance item. I bought the sea foam at NAPA because it was on the counter and on sale. I used it in the M819, that was reported to have sat for 10 years(I don't think that was correct). Anyways, the only thing that disappointed me about the product was, it was clear like water! I figured it might have some pretty color to it! I have no idea if it made much difference. I was happy to know it was in the tank though.
 

zout

In Memorial
In Memorial
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63
Location
Columbus Georgia
Just to add a pic of what these cans look like for anyone not familiar with them. It has no cleaners like a brake clean or Hexane product for removing lube down to bare metal - lube based cleaner.

Personally I see and get a lot of products "donated" for testing and I only stick less than 1% of them into an engine or trans - the rest I give away for someone else to "test".

Not to steal his post - but precleaning is a good thing and also while you tear it down keeping everything in a neat and orderly and clean as you go work ethic (housekeeping) gives you a chance to look at your parts each and inspect them as you lay them out for re-assembly. Use lint free rags. For gaskets on re-assembly use the lube or fluid type to coat the gasket that the item runs in. Keep your manual right next to you and pre-read the entire process first for those "hidden" items you need to be checking.
 

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stump

New member
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Location
Henderson nc
Sea flome is great. I use it in my motorcycles. Keeps the carbs from getting gumed up. You can also use 2 qt of trans fluid in the tank. Trans fluid has alot of cleaning agents in it just stars it up and let it run. It will either clear up as it gets clean or stop when the filter gets cloged. Replacing the inj is easy.
 

K9Vic

Active member
1,261
7
38
Location
Fort Worth, TX
thanks all..

I have used Sea Foam in my gas vehicles for years and the stuff works well on them. I just got my first Diesel (2003 Dodge RAM) this year so never knew you can use it on them too. I will run that through the tank and let it idle and see how it goes. It drives, but it is just slow going right now.
 

jag7720

New member
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0
Location
Kansas City, MO
Better than Sea Foam... get a can of Diesel purge... pull the intake and return lines from the pump (bypass the filter) and put them into the can... run the engine on Diesel Purge until the can is empty... vary the RPMs while doing this. It will clean the injectors and de-coke the engine very well.

A can of Diesel Purge is about $10
 
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