Disconnected Fuse Box Wire

[RedneckRanger]

M1009 Disconnected Fuse Box Wire - ???

84 M1009

Sat for last 7 years, largely in pieces. I've spent over a year (life happened and time is a premium) after I bought it putting it back together, cleaning endless connections, troubleshooting, replacing parts, lurking on the forums, reading the TMs and endless threads, etc. Most things I have learned about, and problems resolved, by searching and reading the forums and posts by other owners. I finally got the engine started a few days ago. Amazingly, after replacing the fuel pump and every fuel line, it unexpectedly fired up after only bleeding air from the fuel filter. I did not even have to crack a single injector line.

I am now chasing down remaining frustrating electrical gremlins.

Caveat: I try not to ever post questions. I am NOT terribly literate when it comes to reading and understanding wiring diagrams or electrical systems, and I do not presently have electrical test equipment, so please be patient with me.

Mechanical / Electrical Status: New batteries; new belts; repaired fusible links and burnt wires; fuse box taken apart and cleaned; alternators being rebuilt now (were both bench-tested as bad); doghead relay mod done; new relays throughout; new heater motor, resistor, and blower switch; new glow plugs, relay, and card; cleaned sockets, all grounds, and replaced all bulbs.


Problem 1 - Gen 1 light on (Gen 2 light never comes on) and Gen1 / heater fuse blows (and melts) the second you turn the blower on. I've checked and/or replaced everything related to the heater, and can't find any shorts, so I am hoping this one will be resolved with completed alt rebuilds. If you think otherwise, please advise. I just lost my wait light right before taking alts off (new bulb, but quit lighting, and truck still starts).


Problem 2 - I pulled apart my fuse box, yet again, to cut out the flasher diode. Flasher was replaced with new, but hazards stay on solid, even without using hazard switch. Researching similar posts pointed to the flasher diode and advised cutting it out.

In the process of pulling the fuse box apart to get to it, I discovered this non-connected black wire with white stripe inside the fuse box (shown below in pic). I cannot identify where it should be connected. I see no obvious location where it should be connected, and can't identify what it goes to.

Closest mention I found is a post that referenced: "small black wire w/white stripe - ground for STE/ICE diagnostic system"

Is that what this non-connected fuse box wire is? If so, what should I do with it / where should it be connected?

Thank you in advance for any assistance... And Merry Christmas everyone!

 

[cpf240]

Might have to trace it out. It could also be the wire from the seatbelt switch to the seatbelt reminder buzzer, which tends to get disconnected because it is annoying.

 

[RedneckRanger]

Might have to trace it out. It could also be the wire from the seatbelt switch to the seatbelt reminder buzzer, which tends to get disconnected because it is annoying.

Thank you for the quick reply cpf240 (and Merry Christmas!). The seatbelt buzzer could be a possibility. It has never gone off, so presumably was disconnected. Odd that they would have disconnected it inside the fuse box, though, if that is what it is, and just leave it un-taped inside the box. I'll see if I can check the buzzer connection for that black wire with white stripe tomorrow in the light. If it isn't the buzzer wire, I'm wondering if it is related to any of my other gremlins.

If anyone else has any ideas, on identifying the wire or my Problem 1, I'm definitely all ears!

 

[timarr]

That wire could be the seat belt chime. Do it the easy way ,start it the drivers seat belt latch and should be a black wire with white stripe coming out and going under rubber mat and door saddle. Blinkers could be as easy as bad flasher.Blower fuse blowing did you check to see if the blower motor spins or if theres a mouse nest inside. These are all things that have happened to me in the past. MERRY XMAS!

 

[KRedd]

Have you looked in TM9-2320-20 schematics. There are so many types of truck, I found it was easier to print out the schematics and separate your type of vehicle and then trace your wire from there and follow it.

 

[KRedd]

Have you looked in TM9-2320-289-20 schematics. There are so many types of truck, I found it was easier to print out the schematics and separate your type of vehicle and then trace your wire from there and follow it.

 

[RedneckRanger]

Have you looked in TM9-2320-289-20 schematics. There are so many types of truck, I found it was easier to print out the schematics and separate your type of vehicle and then trace your wire from there and follow it.

In an update to Problem #2, the mystery non-connected black wire with white stripe in the fuse box was indeed for the seat belt buzzer. I did review the diagrams in TM 9-2320-289-20 and finally found it in E-4. I was able to visually verify it after pulling the fuse box again, so I snipped it shorter, brought it out of the fuse box and taped it off. My wire to the seat belt has always been missing. Thanks to cpf240, timarr and KRedd for the assist with that one.

Still fighting Problem #1. As an update to that, Oreilly's had bench tested the alts and declared them to be bad. I took them to the local alternator / starter rebuild shop for rebuild and had them test them both once more. Lo and behold - when properly tested by a knowledgeable shop, they tested out great. Go figure...

Additional Problem #1 Update:

I've been able to fix nearly all electrical gremlins but two important ones. The first is my Gen 2 light / Gen 2 not working. (It was bench tested and works well). In an older post, I found where Warthog discussed the small Gen 2 diode and it being necessary for the exciter. I checked mine and it does appear to be bad/burnt, so I ordered a replacement and am awaiting that.

Regarding Gen 1 / Heater Fuse Problem: Based upon numerous other threads on similar issues, I have already taken many steps. Already completed trouble shooting actions include:

1. Brand new, excellent Group 31 batteries with full charge.
2. Under-dash ground is clean, shiny, and tight.
3. The blower motor is brand new
4. The blower resistor is brand new
5. The blower control switch is brand new
6. The fuse box has been removed, cleaned, and serviced
7. The correct bulb is in the Gen 1 socket with good contact
8. I can find no shorts or rubs in the wiring
9. Gen 1 pigtail is new and clean, connections are tight
10. Fusible links were repaired
11. Gen 1 bench tested as good
12. Gen 1 properly grounded
13. All blower motor and resistor connections are clean and tight
14. Gen 1 relay is new and good clean connection

I'm pulling my hair out on this one and running out of ideas. Thank you in advance for any additional help anyone might provide.

 

[timarr]

I ve had no success with autozone or advance testing alts. I just do it by switching out on truck ,then changing back and putting on shelf with good written on it. As for your problem have you checked the fusible link behind the rear battery on the buss bar? Mine tested good and no light and all other parts ok. Reach behind battery and I believe its a blue link.