DIY Remote Tire Inflation System (RTIS?)

[ramdough]

Ok…. I have a slow leak and I do not have time to mess with CTIS yet…. Too many higher priorities.

So, instead of me standing there for 20-30 minutes airing up tires every time I want to go for a drive, I started a small easy project.

Only my rear tires have a leak, so I am working on only 4 tires.

I bought four total of these (2 orders):

JACO Lightning L2-Series Tire Air Chuck - 1/4" F-NPT | Open Flow (2 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZHNCJC...t_i_JWR3JVT7V84J6WYMZ82A?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1


I bought one of these packs since the chucks are open flow:

DERNORD Brass Mini Ball Valve NPT Thread,Chrome Plated (1/4" Female&Male) (Pack of 5) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V8JVG1...t_i_5F2F69CW2JH1ZX37Z2QR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I plan to Tee them all together and run a regulator to them. I know they may fill slow through a regulator, but if I am not standing there, not an issue for me.

Any concerns or thoughts?


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[simp5782]

Ok…. I have a slow leak and I do not have time to mess with CTIS yet…. Too many higher priorities.

So, instead of me standing there for 20-30 minutes airing up tires every time I want to go for a drive, I started a small easy project.

Only my rear tires have a leak, so I am working on only 4 tires.

I bought four total of these (2 orders):

JACO Lightning L2-Series Tire Air Chuck - 1/4" F-NPT | Open Flow (2 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZHNCJC...t_i_JWR3JVT7V84J6WYMZ82A?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1


I bought one of these packs since the chucks are open flow:

DERNORD Brass Mini Ball Valve NPT Thread,Chrome Plated (1/4" Female&Male) (Pack of 5) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V8JVG1...t_i_5F2F69CW2JH1ZX37Z2QR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I plan to Tee them all together and run a regulator to them. I know they may fill slow through a regulator, but if I am not standing there, not an issue for me.

Any concerns or thoughts?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Trailers have has this for years. It airs up when the trailer tanks are filled. Doesn't take long.

 

[Ronmar]

If the tires are leaking down, it is most likely a wheel valve. You can confirm this with a wrench and a rubber glove. Disconnect the banjo bolt and put a rubber glove over the fitting and tape it in place over the fitting on the end of the hose… if it inflates, the wheel valve is leaking. Throw a jackstand under the axle, release the air and remove the cover screws on the wheel valve. There is a spring and a diaphragm under the cover, inspect the small center hole for dirt/debris as that is what seals the air in the wheel. clean and replace the diaphragm if necessary(I believe Superman has them). If the diaphragm is OK then after cleaning, re-assemble and inflate… My right front would go flat when I got the truck, a simple clean and inspect on the wheel valve fixed the issue…

 

[ramdough]

If the tires are leaking down, it is most likely a wheel valve. You can confirm this with a wrench and a rubber glove. Disconnect the banjo bolt and put a rubber glove over the fitting and tape it in place… if it inflates, the wheel valve is leaking. Throw a jackstand under the axle, release the air and remove the cover screws on the wheel valve. There is a spring and a diaphragm under the cover, insprct the small center hole for dirt/debris as that is what seals the air in the wheel. clean and replace the diaphragm if necessary(I believe Superman has them). If the diaphragm is OK then after cleaning, re-assemble and inflate… My right front would go flat when I got the truck, a simple clean and inspect on the wheel valve fixed the issue…

View attachment 859724

Ok…. I will try that before I get any further on this project.
Thanks!

 

[B-Dog]

Use a torch on the valve body before removing the screws or at least before using an impact. They break off easily, be gentle.

If it turns out to be a bigger issue and/or one you don't want to deal with, the valve core from the wheel valve should screw into the stem. Remove the whole wheel assembly and re-configure as needed to remove the CTIS from the equation. Admittingly, I've only plugged the stem when assembling tires/wheels so I'm not sure what you need to do on the truck. I imagine you should probably seal/cap the lug bolt where the banjo bolt connects or turn off the CTIS as it will think that tire is leaking, badly. I don't have the screw size but it's metric, it's not the 5/8"-11 size found on the spare.

 

[m-35tom]

Use a torch on the valve body before removing the screws or at least before using an impact. They break off easily, be gentle.

If it turns out to be a bigger issue and/or one you don't want to deal with, the valve core from the wheel valve should screw into the stem. Remove the whole wheel assembly and re-configure as needed to remove the CTIS from the equation. Admittingly, I've only plugged the stem when assembling tires/wheels so I'm not sure what you need to do on the truck. I imagine you should probably seal/cap the lug bolt where the banjo bolt connects or turn off the CTIS as it will think that tire is leaking, badly. I don't have the screw size but it's metric, it's not the 5/8"-11 size found on the spare.

You can easily plug the wheel stud, it is a standard oil pan drain plug size, 16mm