drive shaft seal

[OldDominionIron]

Can anyone give me some information about the seal on the drive shaft between the front rear and rear rear differential. My rear axle shifted enough for the drive shaft to separate and ruin the seal at the splined joint. What is this seal called, and could someone point me in the right direction to get a replacement? I've done a search, albeit a brief one, and I've been up for 25 hours and am not thinking very straight. I did replace a brake line on my deuce today, troubleshot the master switch (deuce starts like a dream, now), removed short drive shaft from front rear differential (this is the shaft with the busted seal), and realized I need to tighten up or replace the air compressor belt. Busy day.

Thanks for any info on the seal.

This is the grease seal that screws on the short piece of the drive shaft between the rear differentials.

 

[Westech]

shifted? that much? wow what broke?

As far as replacement I have no idea. I have used O rings before. But most of the time I just leave it out and make sure to grease it more.

 

[colbanister]

I believe it is a Pinion Seal that you are describing. Pinion Seal, Dana 41 & 44 Axles

 

[Westech]

deuce not cucv there Col

 

[m-35tom]

a good drive shaft shop for the piece you need. your biggest problem is what broke to let the axles move that much??

 

[OldDominionIron]

The deuce had a broken torque rod when I picked it up. That let the axle move enough to separate the drive shaft, but not enough for the springs to fall out. Thanks to Warthogs advice, I had the torque rod replaced in < 2 hours, with no jacking of the vehicle required. The pic below shows the dogbone overlapping, the block of wood I had spacing it apart fell out while moving the truck from the yard to the concrete pad next to my garage. The seal I'm talking about is screwed on the end of the short drive shaft in the second picture.

 

[Ridgerunner]

Any drive shaft shop should have the piece on hand that your looking for.



What would make a dog-bone snap in half in the middle like that?

 

[Marlboro]

Yep thats your pinion seal, remove the four bolts holding your driveshaft slip. remove cotter pin then the large nut. then you pretty much have to destroy the old seal to remove it, then carefully tap in the new seal.

 

[adamsoffroadperformance]

nless you're goin to mud the truck all the time I'd just put it back together and keep it greased. It would take alot of use and dirt to make it get loose.

 

[KsM715]

Thats not the pinion seal. He asking about where the two pieces of the DS slip together.

PS you are missing a bolt where the DS bolts to the yolk.

 

[KsM715]

And make sure when you put it back together you get the U-joint inline with each other or it will vibrate and tear the joints up in no time.

 

[OldDominionIron]

Thats not the pinion seal. He asking about where the two pieces of the DS slip together.

PS you are missing a bolt where the DS bolts to the yolk.

I had already removed one bolt when the pic was taken. I have all four when I go back to putting it together. You get points for attention to detail, however.

I may put it back together without the seal, but will put a piece of hose clamped around both shafts to keep contaminants out. I don't plan on going mudding, but the beach is definitly on the list for next year, and I don't want sand getting in there.

Thanks for all the info, I'll try a local drive shaft shop nearby.

Picking up the truck with a forklift under the dogbone will snap it in a heartbeat, I'm told.

 

[OldDominionIron]

M-35tom, you are the man. Stopped by Craft Machine Shop in Newport News, gave the guy behind the desk the seal, and in 3 minutes the kid in the back brought out the new one. He asked whether the rubber piece was solid or splined, I told him it was too tore up to see, but the shaft was splined. 5 minutes and $7.50 later I'm on the road with a new seal assembly. Thanks to all who responded, more proof that this board is the best. Thanks for the tip on lining up the U-joints, I never would have thought that would have caused a problem down the road.

 

[KsM715]

Ive lost more than my fair share of u-joints on my first Jeep in high school before someone pointed that out to me. Everytime I replaced a u-joint I would just pull one end of the shaft off and replace it with out even thinking of it (after spinning the pinion a few time to check it to). Sure enough few months later I was doing it again. I just figured it was my cobbled together lift kit.

 

[Speddmon]

am I the only one concerned about the broken brake line in the picture above the broken dogbone??????

 

[OldDominionIron]

Speddmon, rest easy. The brake line has already been replaced. 51" length of steel brake line from Advance, double flared, fittings already attached, for about $6.00.

Went and picked up some fittings to make hooking up the pressure bleeder that just arrived to the master cylinder cap, so I will be ready for filling/flushing/bleeding the brake lines. I'm planning on ordering the wheel cylinder rebuild kits for each wheel, and replacing hoses with braided hoses soon. I figure the brake system will be good to go by the time my SF-97/FL title arrives from GL.

Will post pics of the repair work when it's finished.

 

[Speddmon]

Good to know, better safe than VERY sorry!!!!!

 

[stumps]

Can you give more information on your SS braided brake hoses? I have one front hose that is kind of chewed, and I think a SS braid replacement would make a nice upgrade.

-Chuck

 

[OldDominionIron]

I'd like more info on the hoses as well. As far as lining up the u-joints, the drive shaft parts can only line up one way, as there is a WIDE spline on the drive shaft.

Put the drive shaft back together, bled the brakes and took the deuce for a spin (okay, just up and down the driveway) and she stops great. Still plan on rebuilding the wheel cylinders, just waiting for some time off now.