Drivers side alternator belt. Opinions?

[Tinstar]

Have read the threads about this and there are several part numbers out there.
I'm running a gates 7575 right now and even when brand new it's almost at adjustment limit. After the run in and readjust, its maxed out on travel.

Since the tach install all has been good but haven't been driving it much. Been gone and haven't driven it much at all.
Today, with air temps at 100, I noticed, thanks to tach, that the belt is slipping a bit on alt1
No more adjustment and hot under hood temps and hot belt = slipping.
Engine and trans temps are normal.
Voltmeter is reading fine.
Alt 2 is good but have lots of adjustment on that one.

A belt 1" shorter would be perfect or a gates part number that leaves plenty of adjustment would be great.

I run gates only and am not interested in other brands except for cross references.
The gates website is confusing and trying to get a parts counter person to get a shorter belt is worse.

Anyone else dealt with this issue?

 

[reaper556]

I haven't changed the belts yet on my cucv's but had the same issue on my Bronco. I ended doing like cucvrus does and drove it to the parts store and had them match up and get me slightly shorter belts. The ones I ended up with were different than what the computer shows for that vehicle.

Honestly the parts counter guy is going to have to get off his posterior and do some leg work back forth to get you what you need

 

[Recovry4x4]

Same issue here. I solved my problem by using Gatorback belts but you already said that won't work for you. Good luck.

 

[joshuak]

Currently I have a Dayco 57515 belt there. It cross references to Gates 7575 according to their website.

I have found different sized pulleys used on PS pumps, making it hard to have one "correct" size belt. Maybe the same thing occurs with alternator pulleys?


Taking it to the store and getting what you need sounds like a decent option as well.

 

[Rvitko]

Same issue here. I solved my problem by using Gatorback belts but you already said that won't work for you. Good luck.

I also run the gator back belts suggested in the Cucv wiki, they fit perfect, about 1.5" of travel left on each adjustment. They aren't gates, but they are a premium Goodyear belt.

 

[Tinstar]

I also run the gator back belts suggested in the Cucv wiki, they fit perfect, about 1.5" of travel left on each adjustment. They aren't gates, but they are a premium Goodyear belt.

What gator back part number is working for you? The one listed in wiki?
i can use thst for reference.

Both alts are the factory Delco Remys with the standard pully.

 

[Tinstar]

Currently I have a Dayco 48513 belt there. It cross references to Gates 7485 according to their website.

I have found different sized pulleys used on PS pumps, making it hard to have one "correct" size belt. Maybe the same thing occurs with alternator pulleys?


Taking it to the store and getting what you need sounds like a decent option as well.

I haven't been to all of the stores, but most around here don't stock a lot of belts anymore.
At least good ones.
They seem to always have to get it from the warehouse.
Will try that again today in a bigger city.

Ive tried calling and asked them for a belt one inch shorter than a 7575
and can hear them imploding over the phone.

Will call Gates main today and see if they can help.

 

[Tinstar]

Same issue here. I solved my problem by using Gatorback belts but you already said that won't work for you. Good luck.

What part number worked for you?

Ive run Gates belts, hoses, thermostats, and caps since I started driving.
They have never let me down. Not once
That's why I stick with them. Works for me anyway.

 

[jbayer]

have read the threads about this and there are several part numbers out there.
I'm running a gates 7575 right now and even when brand new it's almost at adjustment limit. After the run in and readjust, its maxed out on travel.

Since the tach install all has been good but haven't been driving it much. Been gone and haven't driven it much at all.
Today, with air temps at 100, i noticed, thanks to tach, that the belt is slipping a bit on alt1
no more adjustment and hot under hood temps and hot belt = slipping.
Engine and trans temps are normal.
Voltmeter is reading fine.
Alt 2 is good but have lots of adjustment on that one.

A belt 1" shorter would be perfect or a gates part number that leaves plenty of adjustment would be great.

I run gates only and am not interested in other brands except for cross references.
The gates website is confusing and trying to get a parts counter person to get a shorter belt is worse.

Anyone else dealt with this issue?

gates 7575= 58.13"L X .38"W
gates 7570= 57.63"L X .38"W

I don't have a CUCV, but belts are belts.
All belt #'s are a relationship between length, and width. Once you figure out what the #'s mean, you can figure the correct # for the belt you need.

 

[Rvitko]

15585 is what i used, I have never had a bad experience with a Gates product, but I have also never had a bad experience with Goodyear, for that reason I was very comfortable with the Gatorbacks and they seem to work as advertised to have better grip.

 

[Tinstar]

gates 7575= 58.13"L X .38"W
gates 7570= 57.63"L X .38"W

I don't have a CUCV, but belts are belts.
All belt #'s are a relationship between length, and width. Once you figure out what the #'s mean, you can figure the correct # for the belt you need.


View attachment 629702

Thats exactly what I needed.
Headed out now to go get one.

Thank you!!!!

 

[Tinstar]

Thanks everyone for the help and info!!!

 

[Tinstar]

Installed new shorter belt
Problem gone.
Not as much future adjustment as I would like but it works.

I Think next belt I will get one that allows as close to the full adjustment travel as possible.

 

[Warthog]

I have found different sized pulleys used on PS pumps, making it hard to have one "correct" size belt. Maybe the same thing occurs with the alternator?.

This is indeed the case. While I do not have the info handy, there are different diameter pulleys being used. When they are rebuilt it is possible they installed whatever they had handy. Also the pulleys wear down and the belts don't fit as tight.

 

[cucvrus]

I have put solid pulleys on my alternators. I have also run the belts past the adjustment point and used a flat washer to grip the mount. I would not recommend you do this. But I have done it and have had no issues. Sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do. I did it in a pinch once and just kept running it like that so I figured why not it works and I am not really changing anything. I even toyed with the thought of fabricating a pair of adjustment brackets with longer adjustment slots. Why Not? Anyone have a valid reason why it would not work. Ever take notice about another inch and it would be golden. I have fixed several of the power steering brackets with slots from other GM alternator brackets. it was double ply at the adjustment point slots. It worked and the owner was back on the road. The brackets are next to impossible to find. I like making things work in lieu of changing parts and discarding them. I have spare parts but still cringe every time I can not fix the old one. That is the greatest challenge to make things work and figure it out.

 

[Tinstar]

The alternators are factory delco/remys with the original standard sized pulleys.
My spare alt has a smaller solid pulley that would make the problem worse.
Pulleys do not show much wear and haven't any problems with squealing.

I am (was) just out of any more adjustment travel.
Didnt know anything was not right until the tach install, which showed the slipping after getting hot.
Voltmeter never wavered.

The gates 7570 works well, but sill doesn't give me all the travel built into the bracket.

Every pic I saw while researching showed the same thing. No adjustment or very very little left on alt bracket.

Will run this new belt for now.

 

[cucvrus]

I have learned to not allow the belts to squeak or squeal at all. If the are \making noise the pulleys are getting hot on the alternator and wearing the belt quickly. I start mine at idle and let the glow plug system do its cycle and when I hear it unload the glow plug solenoid I put it in gear and go. I don't have squealing belts and I don't tolerate that sound. i fix it right away. But if I do the slow start and allow the system to complete cycle. No squeal and the belts last for years. I do have my glow plug system all stock. So the alternators are charging equally. That helps take the load of the front battery and the left alternator if you have bypassed the resistors. I have the CUCV Electric manual in my reading room and can basically recite it by heart. I keep it as a CUCV bible to greater understanding. I wish they could post it here for all to see. It is very informative and helpful. It will eliminate the cutting and bypassing of the glow lug system. And give new members a better understanding of how it works in writing. Good luck. Let me know if I can help.

 

[Drock]

Mine eats belts . Mostly on the drivers side alternator. They start loosing chunks, I had one come apart and take out the power steering belt next to it, That was a fun drive home. I've yet to find the happy medium between too tight, and too loose. this goes for Gates and Napa brand.

 

[cucvrus]

Quick question. Did you do the 12 volt resistor bypass? If you did there you have it. It is pulling all the voltage from the front battery to light up the glow plugs. Extra hard on the battery and alternator. I read the book and I am a believer. it worked for me for 20 years on some trucks all stock with the 13 G glow plugs. Sorry to sound redundant but it is factual. I sold several trucks to member's here and they are now believers also. The OEM system works and should just be maintained as the good book says. Peace man. Have a great day. If the belts squeal they are committing suicide by slipping. Fix it right and have no squeal.

 

[Tinstar]

I know the question wasn't for me but Mine is bone stock except for some gauges and hour meter.
Agree with keeping it as intended.
Once things get modified, the manuals go out the window so to speak.