Durability question for Gillespie 24087 paint

[VTYeatts]

I have a newer model Jeep Wrangler that I'm getting ready to repaint and do a retro remodel on. I was planning on doing a M151 theme with it and am going to paint it in Gillespie 24087.

I originally was going to do a black bedliner in the tub but then I thought that it might look better if I just went ahead and did the whole outside, tub and rollbar in 24087.

My question is, how does the Gillespie 24087 hold up to everyday usage on floorboards and inside where it would get constantly rubbed?

The Jeep won't be my daily driver but I'll probably put a couple thousand miles a year on it and I just don't want to have to be constantly redoing the paint in the tub if I paint it with Gillespie when a black bedliner would be a one and done type deal.

Also, how much paint do you think I would need to paint the outside, inside tub, and rollbar for a Wrangler?

 

[Srjeeper]

VTY,

It will hold up as good as any other enamel paint. My truck has been painted with 24087 for going on 5 yrs and it looks like it did when I brought it home. The paint did darken a bit, but the floor boards are still covered and the only thing to cause any scratches was a sharp object, not regular shoe scuffs.

On the bed bows the tarp hasn't worn the paint off, but it's not on all day every day.

Mix it like they tell ya and don't get fancy with all kinds of additives and it'll hold up fine.

2gal. should do a Wrangler inside & out with plenty left for touch ups.

 

[glcaines]

Gillespie 24087 holds up really well if you give it a chance to completely cure before stressing it. It seems to remain soft and scratch easily the first few days, but wears extremely well later. Use multiple light coats.

 

[Bill W]

I've painted 4 vehicles with Gillespie ( 3 in 24087 and 1 in WWII semi-gloss ) with the last one being done 9 months ago, "I" won't use it again. I think for the end price of a gallon that you could get a better paint matched up at your local Sherwin williams ( or whoever ) paint store.

 

[VTYeatts]

Looks like I'll probably get 2 gallons along with some spray cans for future touchups. I'll probably paint my wheels as well while I'm at it. Right now they are black steel wheels but I think they would look good in the matching 24087.

I'm thinking of waiting until later on in the year to do the paint so I can let it sit for a good long while before putting the interior back in and driving it. I'll be too tempted to drive it immediately if I do the paint this summer.

I've heard a couple different recommendations on mixing. I've heard 2:1 using synthetic enamel reducer and I've also heard 4:1 with Xylene. Anybody have an opinion on what is best?

 

[jasonjc]

I just painted an axle with it a few mouths back. I had to use a strap wrapped around the axle to pick it up, the axle rolled with the strap choked on it and you can tell it was there. This was just a day or 2 after painting. I have some troop seat uprights in the bed pockets with almost no wear after years.

So I will use it again.

 

[jasonjc]

I just use a little mineral spirts to tin it enought to spray it. But I DO NOT KNOW WHAT I'M DOING. I just get lucky and it sticks and looks good (to me).

 

[B3.3T]

Equally important is to use a good metal primer first, and plenty of it. Its worth the effort. Been using Gillespie for17 years on armor vehicles. Do it right, let it cure, it will wear like iron.

 

[VTYeatts]

Equally important is to use a good metal primer first, and plenty of it. Its worth the effort. Been using Gillespie for17 years on armor vehicles. Do it right, let it cure, it will wear like iron.

That's what I like to hear. I know a guy that runs a local body shop and he's going to be doing the painting for me so I am confident that it will be done properly and we'll make sure to give it plenty of time to cure so hopefully it will hold up well and last a long time.

 

[Austringer]

I've had great luck spraying it over flashed 2 part epoxy. Like to spray in 20-30 minutes after the epoxy has gone down.

4 parts Gillespie
1 part Xyleytine (spelling????)

I spray first light coat, then a heavier coat about 15-20 minutes later once the first coat has become tacky.

Jason

 

[Srjeeper]

I've heard a couple different recommendations on mixing. I've heard 2:1 using synthetic enamel reducer and I've also heard 4:1 with Xylene. Anybody have an opinion on what is best?

When I painted my stuff I used Red Oxide primer on the bare metal areas.

Then shot the color coat at about 2:1 / 3:1 cause I wanted it a bit heavier. Never had a problem with runs and it dried to a tack in about 15-20 minutes before I shot the second coats.

I used Regular Enamel Reducer and once painted I let everthing set for 30 days before reassembly or putting on the markings.

If you allow the paint to cure properly it'll hold up as good as anything.

 

[Bill W]

The Gillespie paint for our trucks is their 11 series paint which is plain old alkalyd enamel ( industrial paint ) being I called GCI coating and got this info directly from the nice lady there. You can thin it with Naptha, mineral spirits or xylene. I reduce it no more then 3 to 1 being I have always been told that the more you reduce a coating the less durable the finish ( which is why spaycan paint jobs don't last as long as those done with spray guns ) As I stated earlier I don't plan on using it again ( but I also plan on never painting another mil vehicle either ) but I will say it is one of the most forgiving paints to shoot, you really have to try hard to make it run. I've always used a hardner when I shot it but thats just me. Pictures of the vehicles I've painted with this paint can be seen by clicking the link below ( M-37, M-45A2, M-35 kaiser )

 

[DMaddox]

 

[blisters13]

I painted my M35A2 in the summer of 2013 and it is now June 2016: the RAPCO GC paint I used has oxided badly on all horizontal surfaces, looks like crap from above (as in, the driver's seat), and to this day scratches with my fingernails. I got cat scratches on the fuel tank about 40 days after spraying. If I scrub hard with a washcloth, I can remove the majority of the oxide, but not in close to hardware such as hood latches and in corners.

I used 4:1 xylene for mild reducing and no hardener. This truck lives outside in Beaumont, California 24/7, 365.

I am pretty pissed, more so when I contacted GC NOT WITH A COMPLAINT but with a query about any hardeners GC may have available; the response was, "We never have complaints about our wonderful paint". No answer as to hardeners, just immediate denial of any problems!

I do not have the time to do this job again, especially so soon.

I would try Sherwin Williams, but with no rattle cans for touch-up after repairs, not sure I will go that route.

Just understand that if you live in the Sun Belt and don't have indoor storage, GC will not hold up for long.

I may post a couple of pics later, if responses warrant it.

 

[aleigh]

I painted my M35A2 in the summer of 2013 and it is now June 2016: the RAPCO GC paint I used has oxided badly on all horizontal surfaces, looks like crap from above (as in, the driver's seat), and to this day scratches with my fingernails.

You're making me feel better I just went with real CARC...

 

[jasonjc]

I used it to paint my troop seat hardware at least 10 years ago. It still looks good. Did a fuel tank also. There is a small area right where the upright go into the bed , that show ware. I'll post some pic when I get home. I did not use hardener and I thinned with Naphtha if I remember right. I'm in Arkansas and it sits out in the sun year round and the seats got moved from one truck to another. So they been in and out of the pockets a few times.

 

[Flyingvan911]

I have Gillespie on my deuce and it's tough stuff. Branches will barely scratch the surface of it. I give it a little touch up with a spray can and it's as good as new.