Electrical Issue for 1986 CUC-V M1008

[erikhshepard]

Hello All! I've been the proud owner of this CUC-V for a little over a year and I've been thwarting the troubleshooting thrusts as they pop up with a high level of enthusiasm and medium difficulty. Thanks to this website and its strong supporters for the knowledge I've gleaned perusing these threads I've been able to keep him running this long for our many adventures. Recently though I have stumbled upon an electrical issue where I am stuck.

Problem: I was driving down the road, entered into a right turn, and my CUC-V shut off, no power, and glided to a stop. I popped the hood and put out a small fire that caught on the rubber battery terminal/connector protector. My CUC-V has a Banks turbo modification so my batteries sit next to each other, touching. They are strapped down with ratchet straps and bungie cords to the top battery platform closest to the firewall. Entering the turn, the batteries' terminal wires (or something) crossed, and sparked, and ignited the rubber safety covering.

Troubleshooting: I have no power at all, even with new batteries hooked up properly. I tested both of the old batteries and they are putting out some power. I've read the Electrical Sticky Threads on this site, read wiring diagrams, all in search of this elusive "main fuse" that may be blown. I've checked the fuse panel under the dash and found a blown 10amp fuse which appears to be from an unrelated issue.

Any help you all can provide would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks much gents,

Shep

 

[Warthog]

The "main" fuse is the fusible link at the diamond shape terminal block on the firewall. It supplies 12v power to many things including the fuse box.

Start at the batteries and work you way through the system until you find the issue.

Here is the diagram with the 12 ga fusible link for the 12v side of the electrical system

 

[erikhshepard]

Roger that, going to look now, thanks!

 

[erikhshepard]

Found that fusible link and I'll run the multimeter from the batteries on back as soon as the rain stops. Thanks for the help.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Now you know why bungie cords and ratchet straps are not good enough for holding down batteries.

 

[erikhshepard]

Shoot that's the truth!

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Don't ask me how I know that.....


(It has something to do with seeing that happens when a car battery blows up....)

 

[erikhshepard]

I think I was close for sure. What did you end up doing instead of ratchet straps/bungie cords man?

 

[erikhshepard]

 

[erikhshepard]

I think that's the main fuse....

 

[Warthog]

Here is the main fusible link (not really a fuse). It supplies 12v power to the entire truck. See how it is all wrinkled? That tells me it may be bad.



This thread help explain fusible links and how to repair them

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?122571-Fusible-Links-101

Remember to visit the CUCV Helpful Threads Sticky. It covers a lot of items that you may have issues with.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

I think I was close for sure. What did you end up doing instead of ratchet straps/bungie cords man?

Some all-thread rod, a few 1/4-20 bolts & nuts, and some 1/2" or 3/4" angle iron works wonders. A drill and a hacksaw are all you need to get something workable. It may not be as pretty as some of the nice fab jobs I've seen here on SS, but it will get the job done.

 

[erikhshepard]

Update: I fixed the fusible link that Warthog mentioned, and now I have power to the dash, however, the vehicle doesn't start and I notice two things:
One is that the orange dashboard glowplug light doesn't come on, and the other is that I don't hear the fuel pump getting the air out of the hoses like I used to.
I can crank and crank and nothing turns over. What do I check next? I'm learning this electrical stuff as I go, and will be sure to post a tutorial of my situation once it's done, but I'm not quite sure what to look at next? Thoughts?

 

[Bunkerbuilder]

I used battery brackets from a civilian truck and have had no issues in 20 years. I suggest them to everyone that is not using the huge batteries

 

[cpf240]

...I can crank and crank and nothing turns over...

This is confusing, please clarify. If it 'cranks' , then it *is* 'turning over'. In the generally accepted meaning of those two phrases. Perhaps it is 'turning over' but is not starting?

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

This is confusing, please clarify. If it 'cranks' , then it *is* 'turning over'. In the generally accepted meaning of those two phrases.

Exactly. Pull the plugs from a gasser engine, hook up a good stout battery charger/jump starter, and you can turn that engine over til the cows come home. No, it won't start, but it will turn over.



Cranks = turns over.


Turns over does NOT equal "starts".

 

[Abbylind]

No glow plugs no start...Check the TMs They are your bible for troubleshooting

 

[erikhshepard]

I'm still learning the vernacular, my bad on that. I turn the key and no crank/turnover, but I do have power, so that's a victory. I'm going to hit up some literature and some Chevy forums and I'll repost when I make progress. Thanks for the help gents![HR][/HR]

 

[jim9660]

Depending how long the wires were shorted, you may have fried the battery cables as well. There is enough to light lights, but not turn the engine over.

 

[dependable]

Yeah, the cables themselves may be ok, but lost some contact at the ends due to over heating. There is also more than one fuesable link. Sometimes they look ok and are fried inside.

One good temporary way to hold down batteries is with 12g romex wrapped around battery tray, several twists at the top. OK, not great, but better than bungee cords or rope as it does not stretch.

This is no substitute for the real battery hardware. Some of my CUCVs have 6TAGMs and some have 31s. Too much battery investment to have them bouncing around. It is worth it to secure them, and most of us learned the hard way.