engine block / pan / water heaters, road trip north Saturday

[OPCOM]

Well it looks like some unexpectedly cold weather has come about. It could be 29 degrees Saturday night and I'll be in Little Rock. even cooler a bit farther North till the storm blows through, or not, maybe 19 at night. I wouldn't worry but I may have to start the beast early in the AM and it does not like the cold.

Now I am trying to find a block heater or oil pan heater, because my M35 is rather hard to start in cold weather, and if it drops much more, not sure what to do especially as I head North.

Despite all preparations over the last few months, I do not now have any more time to install a freeze plug heater or a tank type heater due to Seasonal Family Obligations of the next 2 days, which:

If OPCOM = "FAIL_APPEAR";
Then RESULT = "SHUN","REMOVE_FROM_WILL","OSTRACIZE","CASTIGATE";
Else RESULT = "OK":

-vacation or not. It's the castigation that scares me, i've heard stories..

I leave DFW Saturday AM early, for Little Rock.

I saw the thread of Westfolk's video with the heater that screws into the water pump.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/engine-drivetrain/33123-vid-multifuel-block-heater-install.html
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/engine-drivetrain/33123-vid-multifuel-block-heater-install.html
I PM'd him about it, but unless it's an off the shelf item from Napa or something I am not sure what to come up with. He sells them, but the chances of getting one from him now are nil.

I found these on the www, no idea if one will screw into the lower water port above the alternator or not. (I think that is where Westfolk installed his special heater)

Zerostart THREADED COOLANT IMMERSION HEATERS (COPPER)
WATT.VOLT.THREAD_SIZE.element_LENGTH.FOR_USE_IN.PN - CONSTRUCTION
400..120..3/8" NPT....2-3/4" (6.9cm).Water......3500026 — Copper
400..120..3/4" NPT....1" (2.5cm).....Water......3100093 — Copper
400..120..1" NPT......1" (2.5cm).....Water......3100003 — Copper
600..120..3/4" NPT....1-3/8" (3.4cm).Water......8604967 — Copper

There are also silicon-rubber-cased oil pan heaters and I am sure I could stick one on the side of the pan, or maybe one on each side of the main sump, it is a big pan.. I am not sure about installing one on the main bottom surface of the pan above the axle because there may not be much oil there to heat, rather heat the sump.

The last resort is that I have an onboard diesel generator, and will be towing a diesel generator set, so if I run the batteries down cranking I can always charge them.

Lastly, I have been told not to use ether or to use very sparingly and it does work, but some have said WD40 is OK (after the air filter).

What is the Wisdom here for the screw-in water plug and/or oil pan heater, suggestions?

And on the 'spraying' of oils into the intake - - consensus on that issue? Can anything be safely sprayed in to help the beast start in the cold?


So begins Opcom's Annual SS Road Trip. It's already an adventure.

This time, for your pleasure, (besides me not being able to start the truck in the middle of a frozen wasteland) there will be a Top Secret Project with Lavish Illustrations.

(Images are representative. Toy does not move by itself. Batteries not included. Contains large parts. Adult supervision required. Not suitable for children under 20. Heavy Object. Hot surface. High voltage. Weld hazard. Strong magnetic field. [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]This product moves when used. [/FONT]Caution: This is not a safety protective device. [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Do not use for personal hygiene. [/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Not intended for use as a dental drill. [/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Not intended for use. [/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]May irritate eyes. [/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Caution - Risk of Fire - [/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]DO NOT use for any function that involves insertion into a body cavity.[/FONT]Battery may explode or leak. Do not look into laser with other eye. For use by trained personnel only. Objects in mirror are behind you. Cannot be made non-poisonous. Product will be hot after heating. Do not light in face. Do not expose to flame. Do not attempt to stop the blade with your hand. May contain nuts. Misuse may cause injury or death. Always drive on roads, not on people. Some materials may irritate sensitive skin. Crush zone. Some assembly required. Radar sold separately.)

 

[tm america]

wd40 doesnt work as starting fluid anymore they changed it to make it meet epa reg and now it isnt flamable like it use to be

 

[Divemaster920]

400..120..3/4" NPT....1" (2.5cm).....Water......3100093 — Copper

 

[4x4 Forever]

(Images are representative. Toy does not move by itself. Batteries not included. Contains large parts. Adult supervision required. Not suitable for children under 20. Heavy Object. Hot surface. High voltage. Weld hazard. Strong magnetic field. [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]This product moves when used. [/FONT]Caution: This is not a safety protective device. [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Do not use for personal hygiene. [/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Not intended for use as a dental drill. [/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Not intended for use. [/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]May irritate eyes. [/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Caution - Risk of Fire - [/FONT][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]DO NOT use for any function that involves insertion into a body cavity.[/FONT]Battery may explode or leak. Do not look into laser with other eye. For use by trained personnel only. Objects in mirror are behind you. Cannot be made non-poisonous. Product will be hot after heating. Do not light in face. Do not expose to flame. Do not attempt to stop the blade with your hand. May contain nuts. Misuse may cause injury or death. Always drive on roads, not on people. Some materials may irritate sensitive skin. Crush zone. Some assembly required. Radar sold separately.)

Needed that one OPCOM, many thanks and please be safe!!

 

[OPCOM]

I will look for that zerostart PN tomorrow AM.

And put away the WD40..

Still interested in comments for the other items too. Thanks much!

 

[cranetruck]

Hey Patrick, those temps are not "cold" for the multifuel, what is the real problem here?
Make sure the batteries are fully charged and the cranking rpm is at least 200. Is there a leak in the fuel system? Bleed on top of final/sec filter bracket before cranking to make sure.

If you expect cold weather, start and run the engine every six hours or so, enough heat will be retained and it'll crank right up. Run it for 20 minutes or so each time.
....Unless you just want a block heater...the oilpan heater will get the oil warm for faster cranking rpm, if there was a choice, I'd go with the oilpan heater...

Good luck on your trip.
Happy Holidays!

 

[OPCOM]

Hey Patrick, those temps are not "cold" for the multifuel, what is the real problem here?
Make sure the batteries are fully charged and the cranking rpm is at least 200. Is there a leak in the fuel system? Bleed on top of final/sec filter bracket before cranking to make sure.

If you expect cold weather, start and run the engine every six hours or so, enough heat will be retained and it'll crank right up. Run it for 20 minutes or so each time.
....Unless you just want a block heater...the oilpan heater will get the oil warm for faster cranking rpm, if there was a choice, I'd go with the oilpan heater...

Good luck on your trip.
Happy Holidays!

In truth I don't know what the real problem is. It has never liked starting in the cold. It should fire off especially as the fuel has been turned up a little. There does not seem to be anything wrong with the engine, runs great. No leaks in the fuel system that I have been able to find, the lines seem full. It might be the cranking speed when cold. I have always had the large size car batteries instead of 6TL's. could that be an issue? It is no problem in warm weather. I serviced the batteries a couple weeks ago, they are maybe 2 years old. It is going to get pretty cold here in Dallas tonight. I will be giving it a test.

For what it is worth the solargizer has not made much difference that I can tell, so mayeb that means the batteries are OK.

 

[jasonjc]

When I go to start mine in the cold I have to push the throddle down a little. Like to the 1000-1200rpm range, when cranking and it starts right up. Good luck on the trip if you get close stop by and say HI.

 

[quarkz]

If you can't find the heater or don't have the inclination to work out in the weather, you can always fall back to a couple of blankets over the hood or top of the block and a space heater or a couple 150 watt drop lights blow the engine shining up.
Maybe a droplight or trickle charger in the battery compartment.

That is what we use here in WA state to keep the above ground parts of the well water system from freezing up in below 32F weather.

 

[The Janiter]

Look at the thread about the International block heater w/ 3/4" ntp threads with cord, part # is in thread. This is a over the counter item @ IH parts dealers

Also don't forget that hard starting can be caused by the plate at the bottom of the fuel pump - it could have fallen off or could be about to. To check take out the pump and look to see if the plate is in the tank, then replace it and safety wire it w/ss wire in place and check pressure.

 

[jwaller]

In truth I don't know what the real problem is.

does you manifold heater work? I'd be willing to bet the batteries might not have the CCA umph that the 6tl's do. would you be able to swap them or carry extra's?

 

[OPCOM]

I think things are well in hand now. The magnetic oil pan heater helped the engine spin faster. It was cranking OK, not sure the RPM but it held steady. it was just that it cranked but the engine would not fire off. This only happens when it is around 35 or lower. It's probably a combination of things:
Non-6TL batteries
the cold
manifold heater does not work because the injection nozzle leaks.

I have not checked the in tank pump pressure. It does deliver fuel.

I think the end issue is the non-CCA batteries do not spin it fast enough for it to generate the fast enough compression to make the cylinder temperature to start easily. That has to be the reason.

So, good to go and leave in the AM.

 

[gimpyrobb]

You CAN use either only on a motor that has sat over night. It is bad to use on a warm motor. Just a couple second shot into the air filter housing.

 

[deuceman51]

The zerostart number I have is 350 0025? I have tried NAPA and others and they can't seem to run this number. Anyone have any ideas?

 

[tm america]

i would go with the block heater it keeps the block warm making it easier for combustion to happen.and also helps the engine turn over faster to.i have a block heater on my tractor and without it i have to crank it for a good while .when using the block heater it starts before making one full rev.i had a pan heater on my deuce it did help it turn over faster but still had to crank it for a good amount of time to get the cylinder temp up high enough for combustion. i bought a block heater for my deuce i'm gonna be putting it on sunday so wew will see how good it starts with that

 

[cbvet]

Both of my Deuces start just fine in cold weather. No need for manifold heater or anything.

My M813 will NOT start without a shot of ether whenever it's below 45 degrees. Cranks fast but won't start. I don't know whether the glow plug is working. Ether is quick.

My Case diesel farm tractor need ether when temps are below about 45 also.

I've used ether to start cold engines since 1962. No damage that I'm aware of.