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Engine Cut-out at high RPM

rsites

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Virginia M35A2, 1970
Have a 1970 Kaiser M35A2. Can't figure this issue out. Seems to run just fine for about 20 minutes, but after good and warmed up, in 5th gear above 20,000 RPM on the gauge the engine power cuts out. The engine still runs, but there is nothing there when pressing the gas. I have figured a workaround for this, which is when it's happening to pump the gas pedal and the power comes back? Thought it could be the air filter I haven't changed in 5 years, but even with the new one still occurs. Any ideas guys? :-?
 

Scar59

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Fuel Filters, start there. If you haven't changed the air filter in 5 yrs. I bet the fuel filters are older. -and don't run it above 20,000RPM (must be a turbine engine, cool)
 
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m109a2

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Hey rsites I think a couple of typos,2,000 rpms and fuel pedal.If I was you put a 5 gallon bucket under your fuel tank drain and see what is on the botton if good proceed to change fuel filters.Did this just start?Al.
 

Flyingvan911

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Ditto. Start with the fuel filters. Be sure to change all three. The primary is under the alternator inside the frame. The two secondaries are on the driver's side of the engine at the rear of the block. Napa numbers 3511 for the primary (one) and 3512 for the two secondaries.
 

FloridaAKM

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Same problem here, original military filters were in the truck when I bought it & drove it home 430 miles. After that it started missing due to extremely clogged filters & bypassed water filter. Changed the filters & scrubbed the canisters clean, back to running as before. This last 450 mile trip was dream till it started missing again in the last few hundred miles. That cleared up by running full out, then get off the throttle for about 30 miles, running in a convoy @ 45 mph & back to running like a Singer sewing machine. If you run wmo, make sure you mix it well before dumping into the tank! Filter changes are cheap compared to the aggravation of a poorly running/performing multi fuel engine!
 

Floridianson

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OP said the RPM's will only go to 2000. They need to go to 2600 no load. Start with the easy if you don't like easy then read the troubleshooting manual that Warthog posted. First test load no load very simple and as Doghead says read your TM's first then report back with your problem. Know your truck / weapon better than what's for dinner. Try and bring all motor Temps. up or a good warm up. Place transmission out of gear. Do not blip throttle but raise the rpm slow but full throttle and see how many rpm's the motor will go.
 

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Floridianson

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Also if you do have to do or when you do the fuel filter The secondary calls for a NAPA # 3512 and so does the final. Then up grade to the final is NAPA#33540 and it is a 6 micron where the 3512 is a 10 micron.
 

dmetalmiki

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When the hypercycle multifuel engines run out of "steam" towards the top of the rpm range, the fuel pump needs re setting as per the T.M.s. Which includes the droop screw settings etc,
 

gimpyrobb

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When the hypercycle multifuel engines run out of "steam" towards the top of the rpm range, the fuel pump needs re setting as per the T.M.s. Which includes the droop screw settings etc,
I think your jumping too far ahead of the game here. Much more info is needed before that step.
 

dmetalmiki

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These are are (contrary to oft heard casual opinions expressed0 ) highly sophisticated engine systems. And when attempting to tune and align performance, It is off times (very) necessary to understand how the complete system functions. Studying he relevant T.M. (in this case TM9-2910-226-34 (which will obviously take some time and effort)) But Will certainly assist in adjusting the fuel delivery and correct power range performance to the maximum (desirable) state over the complete R.P.M. range.
 
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Floridianson

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I like the troubleshooting the 465. It is not listed as a TM but has all a girl needs to know. Lets just get it figured why it will not get to 2600. Fix now tweek later.
 

Wolfgang the Gray

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Hey rsites I think a couple of typos,2,000 rpms and fuel pedal.If I was you put a 5 gallon bucket under your fuel tank drain and see what is on the botton if good proceed to change fuel filters.Did this just start?Al.
Speaking along these lines (since I haven't acquired my M35A2 yet), is there a water drain in the fuel system under one of the filters? I used to own a 1982 Chevy Silverado 10 with the (ghastly) 5.7L diesel and I remember having to check the glass jar on the engine & drain out the water with a little petcock valve on the bottom. Since this is a diesel too, I figured it would have one as well.
 

porkysplace

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Speaking along these lines (since I haven't acquired my M35A2 yet), is there a water drain in the fuel system under one of the filters? I used to own a 1982 Chevy Silverado 10 with the (ghastly) 5.7L diesel and I remember having to check the glass jar on the engine & drain out the water with a little petcock valve on the bottom. Since this is a diesel too, I figured it would have one as well.
There is a drain on the primary fuel filter ( it is covered in the -10 operators TM )
 

Wolfgang the Gray

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There is a drain on the primary fuel filter ( it is covered in the -10 operators TM )
Thanks. I have downloaded a lot of the TMs and am going through reading them. Read the Multi-Fuel Vehicle Operator book this morning (the one with the cartoon figures all through it). I remember when I was NBC NCO in Germany in the 1980s, I came across a similarly done book on how to use the M16 rifle. This one, to be exact.

https://images.search.yahoo.com/ima...search.yahoo.com&hsimp=yhs-001&hspart=mozilla
 

Welder1

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Actually there is a drain on all 3 filter canisters. Most of the water will be captured in the primary canister but it's a good practice to drain all 3 on a regular basis.
 

FloridaAKM

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If you check/drain all three on a regular basis(pre driving check), you will have an idea that things are going as designed or you have a side of the road problem! Checking the water separator/filter is a must every time before you start the truck according to the TM's!
 
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