engine shut off

[Scrambler]

Hi again

I just got another engine in my M36A2. it's running fine now only the problem is I cannot shut off the engine with its cable. it is hooked up allright but ain't working properly. Another thing is when it is idling, it is going to a higher RPM by itself, which makes downshifting uneasy, especially without grinding some teeth.

 

[ironhorsethegeneral]

If your engine stop cable is hooked up properly (into the injection pump) and you pull it out it should pull out all way (check connection at pump and it should pull all the way) if not it will not shut down. The adjustment at the pump may not be right. If it si adjusted right it may be inside the injection pump. Good luck!!!

 

[Scrambler]

The shut-off cable and the throttle are both hooked up right. When the engine is still cold it it can be shut off with the cable but when it is on temperature the idle is going up by itself and can't be stopped anymore by pulling the shut-off cable.

 

[ironhorsethegeneral]

Still sounds like injection pump has problem. It sound like an internal problem. Something is bypassed not sure what it is though. Sorry that is all we know.

 

[cranetruck]

This may be a long shot, but check your flame heater nozzle. Some leak and if it's injecting fuel into the intake manifold who knows what will happen. Engine runaway?
Some 5-ton multifuel engines have solenoid valves shutting the fuel off to and from this flame heater nozzle, perhaps some deuce engines should have them too.

I suspect the IP, though.

 

[ken]

M52 tractor with a LDS465-1A is doing the same thing. It's stuck at 2000 RPM's and i had to cut the fuel line to shut it off. I've got a spare IP and i'm going to swap it as soon as i some time off. Bjorn, I'll check the flame heater nozzle. I never thought of that. Thanks!

 

[houdel]

Just a suggestion - I used to have a '78 full size Chevy Blazer with the 6.2L diesel. After a few years, it developed a vacuum leak in the fuel system someplace - no visible leaks under pressure, but after sitting a while air would get into the system and let fuel drain back into the tank. In order to start it, I'd have to crank the engine a few seconds so the mechanical transfer would build up pressure in the fuel system, then open the hood and crack the fuel filter bleeder valve to let the air out. After that it would fire right up, but the after setting a few hours I'd have to repeat the process all over again.

This got old pretty quickly until I came up with a brainstorm. I cut the fuel line going into the fuel filter, ran a piece of 3/8" rubber fuel hose up to a 3l8" ball valve mounted in the grill and then ran another piece of 3/8" rubber fuel hose back to the fuel filter. When I parked the Blazer, I'd go around to the front and turn the valve off. Then when I wanted to drive off someplace I'd open the ball valve and the engine would fire right up!

Why not install a similar ball valve in the fuel line near your secondary fuel filters? When you check your oil level before starting up, open the ball valve, start her up and go. When you want to shut her off, close the ball valve and she shuts down. Makes a great anti-theft device as well!

If you really wanted to be cool, you could mount the valve in the cab in a hidden location. Positive fuel shut off, anti-theft protection, plus fuel drain back protection if you ever develop one of those mystery air leaks I've seen mentioned in other postings.

 

[Scrambler]

There is an electric fuelpump in the tank. As soon as you put on the ignitionswitch the fuel is pumping in the system. Engine starts right up. I doubt it has anything to do with it.

 

[m35a2cowner]

engine won't shut off

This might be a long shot but I have seen it happen before. Make sure the fuel return line to the tank is not plugged or kinked. If pressure is building up in the return line it continues to get into the pump and is thus compressed in the injection pump. I had one slowly start to pick up rpm. Pulling the shut off did not stop it. Taking off a fuel filter did not help either. Only when I cut off all the lines to the pump did it stop. A close inspection revealed that ice had formed in the return line and the pressure was not being relieved. Its possible a line might have gotten kinked. Certainly something to look for and easier than changing the pump. Good luck

 

[Scrambler]

Last time it had been sitting for a week, turn 'on' the ignitionswitch and press starterbutton and it starts right up, not even turning a full turn...

 

[firefighter_930_aj]

Engine shut-off

Scrambler,
Physically pull the plunger (not the t-handle or the cable) and see if you can shut it down that way. If so, you will need to work it back and forth until it moves more freely. There may be some crud on the plunger.

 

[m35a2cowner]

won't stop

I agree with the last post. If that doesn't do it, did the pump run very long or did you hit the button as soon as you flipped the switch? Might possibly be a sign of pressure build up. I did a quick look through the maintenance manuals on CD and I didn't see anything about a one-way valve (it would most likely be on the pressure side of the injection pump -electric pump to mechanical pump) That's not to say I couldn't have missed something. You might just try taking the return line off and put another line that drains to a bucket and see if the motor shuts off with this arrangement.

 

[houdel]

Scrambler - I think you misunderstood what I was saying. My suggestion was to put a fuel shut off valve in the fuel line between the fuel pump and injection pump. A ball valve works best as you only have to move the handle 90 degrees from full on to full off. It doesn't make any difference if the electric pump is running or not, if you close the shut-off valve it stops the supply of fuel to the injector pump and the engine stops immediatly!

Simply turning off the accessory switch will not stop the engine. Even with the electric fuel pump in the tank shut off, the injection pump will still pull enough vacuum to suck fuel through pump in the tank and keep the engine running.

Mounting a shut off valve in a concealed location in the cab will allow you to stop the engine even if the stop cable isn't working, plus provide some added security as someone trying to "borrow" your truck is unlikely to find the shut off valve and open it before trying to start the engine.

 

[Scrambler]

Okay, now I understand what you mean. However, when the engine is still cold, the T-handle/cable setup works fine, it stops the engine the way it should. But this is not my main problem. The bigger problem is that when the engine is on temperature it's going on hi rpm, 2000+ and rising. Even when waiting for a traffic light makes the engine go up to too high rpm. I guess this is what you called "engine runaway" ? it's kind-a scary, feels like some internal engineparts want to come outside the engine to take a look...

Shutting the engine off with the ball-valve-thing sure might help, but I believe it is not good for the Turbo. Does it not say: leave engine idle for 5 minutes before stopping it to cool down the turbo, or similar. I reckon this ball-valve just as a emergency shut-off or as you said anti-theft.

This engine what is in my truck has been swopped in about 2 weeks ago. it came out of a another Duece. When I drove it home, the first 10 miles were so different as I was used to because it has a lot of power, much more than I ever had with a Duece. The next 5 miles costed me half the engine oil because the turbo went out. I replaced it with my old turbo at a truckstop between surprised Russian and Polish truckdrivers. (I am in the Netherlands, Europe) The truck has way too much power so we think 'they' did something to the pump. If I only knew what so I can bring it back to what it should be. I don't need a race-Duece...

 

[cranetruck]

Here is where the fuel delivery adjustment is made.
Turn the nut counter-clockwise to move the screw in to reduce the delivery.

 

[clinto]

I don't need a race-Duece...

 

[DrFoster]

If you have a welding setup around you could always fire nitrogen into the intake- that extinguishes flame instantly. That might help during testing phases to keep from having to "snuff" the motor with a piece of MDF or a 2x4...??? Dunno... Most of all, Crane is the deuce pimp around here, he knows his stuff. I'm beginning to wonder if he wasn't a Motor T guru back in the day.

 

[WillWagner]

Just a thought, Is there a return spring on the throttle lever? Is the lever going all the way back to the idle position? You said you lost a turbo, thats an uncontrolled fuel source, maybe the 2nd turbo is failed too. Try pulling the connectoin off at the intake manifold to see if it stops runnng away and if it shuts off. Maybe the 1st turbo went away due to a drain line blockage. Be careful with the fuel delivery screw, a little turn goes a long way. 1/8 to 1/4 turn at a time.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Let me add that if there's not a spring, there should be. It attaches to a little ear bolted onto the steering box.

 

[m35a2cowner]

Engine won't shut off

Again I would advise that you look for a kinked or blocked fuel return line (also check the other things the others have advised as well). Especially since you say the engine was changed (did the old motor do the same thing) and the problem occurs after the motor warms up (builds up fuel pressure) a bit If the engine shut off works when its cold it should work when its warm, unless there is a back pressure in the pump. If your wondering if the turbo is leaking oil it should be oily on the outlet side (going into the intake if it is). If its a fuel related run away taking the rubber tube the intake wont stop it because the fuel is coming via the injectors. As for the fuel delivery screw I wouldn't think that it would over-ride the governor or throttle position (reducing the fuel rate to that only needed to maintain idle speed). It might be money well spent to have a mobile mechanic come out and have a look at it. If you or a mechanic think its the pump, then put the one from your old motor on. Hope that helps