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Had the opportunity to work on the sometimes-working interlock switch on the SHEE, and here's what I've learned.
If pushing the clutch pedal doesn't create the connection, start with unscrewing the connector from the back of the switch. Turn on the master switch and ignition, then bridge the two female connections with whatever you have handy. I used needle nose pliers.
You should hear a clicking sound from the relay by the transmission.That proves that the system itself is functional, but the switch is not.
I removed the switch and cleaned it out the best I could, repeatedly, with electronic parts cleaner. Unfortunately, it can't be disassembled.
Got it working according to the Ohm meter, but not in real life. Cleaned some more, then tried it with a load (an LED light).
Again, it still wouldn't work in the SHEE.
Made a jumper wire to replace the switch, then cleaned the switch some more. Still not fully functional.
"Roughed up" the contact surfaces on the pins on the switch a bit with pliers, in an effort to create better contact. That did it.
At least the switch seems to be near 100% now, where before it made contact maybe six out of 10 times.
![DSCN0402[1].jpg](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/466/466142-f9830f2a50c9572654f5ac659eb6ce3c.jpg "DSCN0402[1].jpg")
On the left: Problem. To the right: The simple solution.
It was tempting to leave the jumper in place and call it good. Which it is, unless you're in a habit of forgetting to put the trans in Neutral and push the clutch in before hitting the starter button.![DSCN0403[1].jpg](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/466/466146-f636cebfe9a65974725454c8d4bf6b78.jpg "DSCN0403[1].jpg")
What not to do: My first move was to machine the nut down (it's not exactly a jam nut), thinking that maybe the switch didn't get fully activated because of the thick nut since it could often be activated by hand.![DSCN0398[1].jpg](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/466/466149-98a01622b38a25ddba93c209bdb2dce7.jpg "DSCN0398[1].jpg")
Then I realized that it might be thick for a reason, serving as a mechanical stop for the pedal, protecting the master cylinder.
Well, since it didn't help its function any, I put a washer behind it to "make it thick" again.
If pushing the clutch pedal doesn't create the connection, start with unscrewing the connector from the back of the switch. Turn on the master switch and ignition, then bridge the two female connections with whatever you have handy. I used needle nose pliers.
You should hear a clicking sound from the relay by the transmission.That proves that the system itself is functional, but the switch is not.
I removed the switch and cleaned it out the best I could, repeatedly, with electronic parts cleaner. Unfortunately, it can't be disassembled.
Got it working according to the Ohm meter, but not in real life. Cleaned some more, then tried it with a load (an LED light).
Again, it still wouldn't work in the SHEE.
Made a jumper wire to replace the switch, then cleaned the switch some more. Still not fully functional.
"Roughed up" the contact surfaces on the pins on the switch a bit with pliers, in an effort to create better contact. That did it.
At least the switch seems to be near 100% now, where before it made contact maybe six out of 10 times.
On the left: Problem. To the right: The simple solution.It was tempting to leave the jumper in place and call it good. Which it is, unless you're in a habit of forgetting to put the trans in Neutral and push the clutch in before hitting the starter button.
What not to do: My first move was to machine the nut down (it's not exactly a jam nut), thinking that maybe the switch didn't get fully activated because of the thick nut since it could often be activated by hand.
Then I realized that it might be thick for a reason, serving as a mechanical stop for the pedal, protecting the master cylinder.
Well, since it didn't help its function any, I put a washer behind it to "make it thick" again.