FMTV Battery hook up diagram

[PanamaMV]

Several threads mention a battery hook up diagram is on the backside of the battery box cover. Seems that is not always the case. None on this one and have searched the net a good bit but can't find a pic of one either. Am working on one now where batteries where pulled for charging and now doubting the memory of how they go back in (4 12v Bat.)

I know there is a 12v side and a 24v side so want to get it right.

Can someone point me to a thread I may have missed that shows this or maybe shoot a pic of their box cover diagram?, draw one up? or offer a clear pic or if their bed is off offer up a pic of battery arrangement birds eye view?

Certainly would appreciate it.

 

[DanM7890]

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?143659-M1088-battery-wires

 

[mkcoen]

Here you go. from a M1078. I recommend printing and taping inside your battery cover.

 

[bikeman]

Here's my version from a M1078A1

 

[mkcoen]

Here's my version. lol.

Is that from an A1?

 

[bikeman]

is that from an a1?

nfc

 

[mkcoen]

nfc

Sorry but I have no idea what NFC means.

 

[DanM7890]

Sorry but I have no idea what NFC means.

National Football Conference?

 

[bikeman]

Sorry but I have no idea what NFC means.

No fraking clue. I took it last year out at DRMO when someone was looking for the image/diagram. literally turned over a battery lid, grabbed a pic, and put the lid back, didn't even look at the truck.

 

[NDT]

Bikeman's is from A1 with battery disconnect.

 

[mkcoen]

Okay so now we have both diagrams in one thread.

mkcoen - M1078
bikeman- M1078A1

 

[sarge351]

Here you go. from a M1078. I recommend printing and taping inside your battery cover.

View attachment 641652

Not sure if anyone saw me, but I was the ******* that died on I-75 in Richardson, in DFW, Texas, a couple of weekends ago. Yes, 5pm Rush Hour traffic, and it just died, right in the middle lane. A big Thank You to the Richardson PD for helping my dumbass out!

I was trying to make it home to Plano, Texas from Waco. Holt Cat in Waco had just put in my High Speed HWY Gears, so I made a run for home. Before I left, my batteries were bad, but jumpable. Holt Cat wanted to sell me (4) $500 AGM 6T batteries. I was planning to put in new 24F batteries when I got home. In transit, I carried a portable battery jump pack, which I started the truck easily with. My problems started when I hit Rush Hour traffic, and my speed was stop and go. I noticed my gauges stopped working. After that, it died, and it was no longer jumpable. Had to get towed off the road! Ugh!! Long story short, I had to hitch a ride home, and come back the next day, 12 miles from home. Next day, I put in New batteries, and it was all good. Fired right up - Boom!

I have not had the chance to check my voltage outputs yet. My Alternator is the N1511. I have noticed that my Voltmeter reads low though.

Anyway, is this a typical behavior? Basically, idle speed was not enough output to run the lights, let alone put a charge on the batteries.

The above is my battery configuration, so I can deduct that the batteries charge from the 28VDC circuit? The 14 VDC circuit just runs lights?

Since the LMTV's originally came with the 1500 Series of Niehoff alternators, can I swap in any other Military Series Niehoff, or are some Series a better fit than others? Would an N1224 (140 amp 14 VDC/260 amp 28 VDC) be better than another with 50 amps 14VDC/200 amps 28 VDC?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Suprman]

The alternator is dual voltage and charges both 12 and 24. Chances are you lost your regulator 24 volts and the alternator is not exciting. Take off the 2 leads going to the regulator and tape them off. Take the 24 volt connection on your fuel solenoid, usually the outer connection, but verify with a meter to be sure. Connect and come around the front of the engine to the forward terminal on the regulator. Don't use the back terminal.

 

[sarge351]

The alternator is dual voltage and charges both 12 and 24. Chances are you lost your regulator 24 volts and the alternator is not exciting. Take off the 2 leads going to the regulator and tape them off. Take the 24 volt connection on your fuel solenoid, usually the outer connection, but verify with a meter to be sure. Connect and come around the front of the engine to the forward terminal on the regulator. Don't use the back terminal.

I will try that tonight. Thank you!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Johno176]

Just a shout out for United States of Freight: Joey's the best!

Sorry wrong thread.

 

[deshet]

Are the cables label?
My cables aren't connected to anything and I am trying to sort things out.
Are there connection points that I can trace back to ensure that the cables aren't crossed?

Does this drawing represent the way to connect two group 31 batteries or are the connections different?
I don't want to damage anything by hooking things up wrong. My goal is to connect two group 31 batteries, while maintaining the 24 volt and 12 volt circuits.


Thanks,

 

[Suprman]

24v positive is towards the back, 12v lead goes left to right between the 2 battery rows and the lead at the outer end of the batt box is the negative.

 

[coachgeo]

24v positive is towards the back, 12v lead goes left to right between the 2 battery rows and the lead at the outer end of the batt box is the negative.

Is this description with the two batteries pointed port starboard or fore and aft?

 

[Suprman]

All batts sit positive left forward towards frame

 

[deshet]

24v positive is towards the back, 12v lead goes left to right between the 2 battery rows and the lead at the outer end of the batt box is the negative.

I went to the truck today and I am starting to understand what you are saying.
The problem is I don't know which leads are positive and which leads are negative.
The only wires that are color coded seem to dead end at the NATO plug.

I am trying to lift the cab (hand pump) to trace things out but I have a nut that is leaking fluid hydraulic. It is a huge nut located between the cab and the bed. I tried to tighten it but it has a whole in the center that allows fluid to leak.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2R5mtn0KAFo

If you watch this video pause it at the 13 sec mark.....the nut in the middle of picture is leaking fluid. Sorry for the confusing description. How do I stop this from leaking so that I can raise the cab and get the battery wiring figured out.

Thanks