ok i have had nothing but problems with this dual voltage stuff and I'm thinking about losing the 12volt side as its all lights except starter switch all lights on my truck are led omni volt anyway. does anyone have any thoughts about this? or has anyone done this already?
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Fmtv no more dual voltage
- Thread starter jasonn
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I dont see why you cant convert everything on a first gen truck. You would loose the 12v trailer control. Have to change out the light flasher. On the power board there is one row of 12v circuits and one row of 24v so its easy to figure out what runs off each voltage.
scottmandu
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Is the CTIS computer 12 or 24v?
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12v. Trans control is 24v. You could use a small step down converter to run 12v for ctis and other small accessories like phone charger.
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Since you have to have two batteries in series, you could go 24v only and power the 12v circuits (as they exist with no conversions) with the two batteries and a Vanner (or similar) battery equalizer. The Vanner would ensure the two batteries were treated equally so there is not the old problem of tapping between the batteries for 12v, (which without the Vanner equalizer causes an imbalance).
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Some of the mraps are set up this way.
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Steps down 24v to 12v while keeping the battery voltage balanced.
coachgeo
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Looking at Vanner website .... would this be a part of their "DC to DC Converter" line?
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Look at their 'equalizer' line, then click on any of the manuals and read the description.
http://www.vanner.com/battery-equalizers/
Bob
http://www.vanner.com/battery-equalizers/
Bob
coachgeo
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Is it possible the original reason they went with dual voltage was to avoid using a converter that could be affected by an atmospheric electrical magnetic pulse (be it man made or natural). Once they went to engines with CPU's then they would have had to some degree (though probably not much) give up on that .... but the dual volt alternator system just remained cause it was already there and in most part worked fine.
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No
Nukizer
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Trans controller is 12v/24v. It works with either voltage. I am converting my 2003 M1078A1 to just 12v. The 12v starter is a Delco 39MT #8200433, and the alternator will be a 22si.
Ronmar
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CTIS is 24V...
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Nukizer
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Nukizer
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I can see that being a concern for a lot of people.
Ronmar
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The Allison ECU voltage alarm points are programmed for 35V hi and 10V med-lo, 8V low, 7V ECU shutdown, but there is a note in the Allison troubleshooting manual talking about a specific 24V VIM this makes sense as the relay coils(like for the exhaust brake) are powered by switched input voltage so they have 24V relays in them. I think it may also have a 12V relay in it for neutral lockout, there is a 12V relay listed in the 24P manual as a part in the 24V VIM.
A little research and I found a different P/N for the two VIM’s
For WTEC II, the 24V LMTV VIM is P/N 29509889 (parts descriptions also call this a regulator)
The 12V VIM P/N is 29509886.
if you google these P/N’s you will find pics showing they have labels for 12V and 24V...
A little research and I found a different P/N for the two VIM’s
For WTEC II, the 24V LMTV VIM is P/N 29509889 (parts descriptions also call this a regulator)
The 12V VIM P/N is 29509886.
if you google these P/N’s you will find pics showing they have labels for 12V and 24V...
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Nukizer
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The user Superman says the LMTV CTIS is 12v
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No its 24v. I looked it is on the 24v bus.
Nukizer
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And my hopes were up for a little while