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Fried CUCV card pic and question...

84cucv1ton

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not sure about the black one but the small white one i got from radio shack. pretty sure it was from there. i have those things all over. i have had many burn up things. most can get at radio shack. i never found that black one tho. will see if i still have the part # for that. i like a push button switch more.
 

mr.travo

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Comfort, TX
I hear you. I am just OCD about my trucks and I want them to work correctly as designed. I carry around a jumper wire to jump the glow plug relay under the hood. An old mechanic that used to fix them tought me that and that is how I was getting it started until Warthog and a couple of others helped me fix it and I dropped in a spare card. I was just hoping to have this one fixed to hold on to for another spare and/or trading material. :mrgreen:
 

3dubs

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Or just run the jumper wire inside with a switch and do not worry about the card. I like the card but the switch may be a good fix until you get the card working.
 

IowaFamilyGuy

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Waterloo, Iowa
I'm an old microelectronics guy (I'm a geek who collects tube stuff). The card is most likely repairable. Clean it well, check the traces for any shorts or new paths caused by the melting, and when you replace the IC and the burnt resistor, I would go through and test each other resistor for it's rating, just to be sure.

All in all, if it's within 5% of it's expected value, you should be good. Honestly resistors are so cheap, if you have the solder and competent skills, you should be able to hack it back together in an hour or two. Solder is getting goofy expensive though...
 

Dodge man

New member
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Fl
I have a new card and everything works now. I just want to know if my old card (the one in the pic) can be rebuilt.
ANYTHING can be rebuilt! It's just a question of weather it's worth it or not. But your board looks like it's easily fixable once you find out what the parts are and locate some replacements. Can you tell if it's a multi-layer board or does it just have circuit board traces on one side or both sides? Since you have a good card, get the numbers off the parts on it and let me know what they are and I'll probably be able to tell you what they are and where to get them. Also give me the reference designator too (the letter and number from the board next to the parts). That will usually tell you what kind of part it is. You may have to unsolder one end of the diode(?) and stand it on end to read the number and it will most likely be very small and hard to read. You'd better PM me since I don't usually read this forum.

I DO NOT recommend buying ANY parts from Radio Shack!!! Their parts are usually floor sweepings (literally!) and frequently are out of spec. You can get GOOD parts from DigiKey, Mouser, Jameco and many other suppliers.
 

Dodge man

New member
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I just looked at the other thread on this and it says that the three lead part is a 2N6388. Depending on who made it, that's probably an NPN Darlington transistor with an Ic of about 8 to 10 Amps, about 65 watts max http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&...wfP-YW4Dg&ved=0CCEQBSgA&q=dissipation&spell=1dissipation (with heatsinking!!! Your board doesn't have any heat sinking so that's probably why it burned up), about 65 to 80 volts max, and an hfe of 1,000 to 20,000. The small two leaded part looks like a diode and the reference designation on the other board says Z-4 so that probably means that it's a zener diode. My guess is that you'll find it connected to the transistor which means that the two of them form a voltage regulator with the voltage controlled by the zener diode. If that's what it is then the transistor isn't critical as long as you have the same type (NPN Darlington) and it's voltage and current ratings are high enough. However the zener diode is critical since it controls the output voltage so you need to get the number from it AND watch the polarity when you install the replacement. It appears that the end with the band should face the edge of the circuit board. BUT I noticed that the other board doesn't have that part installed! So it's probably a slightly different design and may use an monolithic voltage regulator such as a 7805. Without having any board to examine or knowing more about what they do that's all I can tell you.

PS if you have the room, I would get a small heat sink and attach it to that transistor. Use heatsink grease and make your you have a good tight fit. That will undoubtedly extend it's life and reliability.
 

Warthog

Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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63
Location
OKC, OK
There has been multiple treads on rebuilding these cards. There have also been some guys talking about building new ones with today componants. It has been awhile since I was following it. Search and you should find some threads. (I would do it but the wife wants to know what I am doing on the computer on saturday morning.....;-))
 

mr.travo

Member
422
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16
Location
Comfort, TX
I have the equipment but have never done anything like this before. I don't know how to solder or anything. I just don't want to jack this card up. These are hard to come across. I would LOVE to learn how to do it though.
 

tanhmmwv

Member
94
6
8
Location
ma
chance are, the new card will get burnt out again.
your best option.... is to install a momentary switch.
where you push the button in 10 - 15 seconds, release, then,- start the truck.

this way you know 100% that the glow plugs will not be turned on while you are driving.
 
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