Front Drive Flanges?

[rmgill]

So, I have a 800 mile trip coming up this end of January. And I want to squeeze more milage from the deuce. I'll be pulling about 5 tons on a trailer behind so I'm not sure if I want to disable the rear dual. But, the front axle could certainly loose the extra drag. I'd love to get a set of front lockouts, but I just can't afford them right now. So turned out front spindles are the next best thing. Where can I find a set of these around Atlanta? Should I try a custom Jeep place?

This trip is starting to get to me. It's 6 am and I'm going nuts thinking about the $400 in fuel I'll be spending. When I'm used to filling up for less than $20 on my Little Honda Insight, it's a forboding thought.

Bjorn, I'll be headed up past you on I77/I81. Mind if I swing by to visit? I might have some stuff to trade too. I've got a spare fuel tank (used but decent) that you might be able to use for a second fuel tank. (You know you want two!)

 

[cranetruck]

Hey Ryan, come by any time. Don't need the extra fuel tank (that's the quick answer) and I'll be happy to get you some extra fuel, biodiesel that is.
We are about 20 miles off I-81, but weather may be a factor.
About prepping the deuce for the highway, you already know my ideas, I'm sure. Disconnect the rear interaxle prop shaft and leave the front hubs original. Freeing the front hubs may give you an extra mpg or two but not worth it in my opinion. The rear mod gives you better turning radius and eliminates the drag caused by imperfect tire sizes. With this set-up I get about 9.5 mpg empty (16,000 lb).
The larger single tires help too.

 

[rmgill]

So you're saying leave the front hubs 'engaged' and disconnect the rear axle? I'm wishing I had some 1100x20s already. (on the long list) Getting this trailer setup properly is costing a pretty penny.

Thing is, I'll be towing the 5 tons of trailer (1.5 for the trailer, 3 tons worth of dingo) plus kit and gear in the bed (w/ cargo cover) so I'm thinking I'd be better off with two axles driving in back. Turning radius won't be good no matter what with the trailer on the rear pintle.

 

[cranetruck]

Yeah, you should be just fine with one driving axle in the rear, unless you are off-road or in snow, of course. Traction is increased by increasing the weight/load on the truck bed too, which would include the trailer tongue weight.

 

[rmgill]

Snow is of course a fear. I'd greatly prefer not to have to try to re-install the rear drive shaft on the side of the road laying in snow. Front lockouts would be highly preferred. Heck, I wish there was an easy rear axle lockout box one could install.

 

[cranetruck]

You can pull an axle/flange in the rear and install a spare front hub there instead.

 

[rmgill]

That's right, it just spins the rear pumpkin. I really need to see if there's a MV junk yard near Fort Gilliem like I've been told by a few old salts around atlanta.

 

[clinto]

If you find an MV junkyard near Gillem, I'll offer my assistance (if needed).

 

[Boatcarpenter]

CT, I read your road trip article and posts about why you don't think freeing the front hubs is worth it but I'm still not "getting it" I guess. Expense?, Hassle? Inconvenience?, perhaps you could "dumb" your reasoning down for me. Seems like 1-2 MPG would be worth it for anyone who road trips quite a bit. I realize payback on a $500-$600 set of hubs would take a while, but what about plain wear and tear toll. I'm not a morning person, but help me out here. I'm not disagreeing here, just trying to get it clearer.

 

[ken]

If you don't want to spend any cash, then pull the axle shafts out of the front axle. And take out the front drive shaft. Then you don't have to worry about wearing the axle shaft splines with a bored hub rubbing on them. If your main focus is milage then slow down to 45mph. On his trip to Kenny's Drat broke 11mpg with a 109 pulling a travel trailor. Try airing the tires to the max. The more pressure the less rolling restance. If it gets cold use a rad blanket. If it's not running close to 190 deg then it will be less efficent.

 

[cranetruck]

BC, getting your $500 plus investment back on the freewheeling/locking hubs is one thing, but my main point is that when you are using just one drive axle in the rear, then there are times when you will need to engage the front wheel drive. Examples: Moving slowly in a parking lot and encountering a speed bump, if it's wet you may need to use the front wheel drive to get over it.
Example: Pulling off to the side of the road for any number of reasons. Front wheel drive may be needed if it's grassy or slippery in any way. If it's a side slope, then you'll have the "upper" wheel spinning in no time.
Example (Recovry4x4 experienced this): Stuck on wet pavement at a stop sign, which was on a slight incline.

In all these cases, I rather just flip a switch on the dash than stopping, getting out and turning the locks on the front wheel hubs.

Personally, I wouldn't trust locking hubs off road, hate to see what they would look like after bumping a tree, log or rock.
Minor point too is that they don't look military.

As far as DR's Florida trip, having two fuel tanks must help since he can run for longer periods of time without changing speed, accelerating etc.
Tire pressure should be higher in the front than specified in the TM's, IMHO, for 900's, use 60-65 psi. I use 70 psi for my 1100's.

Front end alignment is important too, if your tires scuff and show bad wear, fix it.

For higway driving, do free up the rear bogie. Just a few psi difference in the tire pressures will change the rolling radii and cause drag, even for prefectly new tires. This drag will also increase the front tire wear when turning, BTW with or without locking hubs.

 

[Boatcarpenter]

Gottcha, CT. Thanks

 

[Recovry4x4]

Time for me to jump in here. Yes, I've been stuck at a stop sign on wet pavement with a slight incline. I had the desplined front hubs and a rear shaft pulled. It was embarrasing at best to be like that in an all wheel drive truck. Wished I had the drive flanges in place or both rear drive axles. When I tow this heavy stuff on the highway, I use the desplined hubs and leave the rear alone. I understand Bjorn's reasoning and agree, but I like having both rear axles live when I can. I have a formula/ procedure for best matching of rear tires if you're interested. I like my desplined hubs. Ken, I can't see a reason to remove the front shafts, the spindle holds the shafts pretty straight. I have thousands of miles on my truck with the desplined hubs and you can't see any evidence of wear on either. I had the same conversation with MV legend Pierre Jalving at Aberdeen last year. I pulled a hub for him and made a believer ouy of him. Ryan, if you want to cover some of the shipping, you are welcome to borrow my desplined hubs. They're on the wrecker right now but not needed. When are you headed out?

 

[cranetruck]

Keep in mind that even when the rears are perfectly matched, they will cause excessive front tire wear.

 

[Towerguy1]

Although not stock, I like being able to unlock the front hubs when they are not needed. They are quite rugged, and would survive ok off-road, with the exception of hitting a large rock or something like that.

 

[Boatcarpenter]

Towerguy1, do you have the Selectro or the O.E.M. or some other brand?

 

[hndrsonj]

clinto, remember SECO is just down the road from you in Augusta. They are supposed to have a huge junkyard. Might try them.

 

[Towerguy1]

They are the Selectro hubs. I believe they were installed by MVtrucker when he owned it. There are pics of it in members rides, Towerguy1s M35A2. They work well.

 

[spicergear]

I've had Selectro's on my Rockwell Axled M715 for several years. Prolly have 3,000 miles on them with no problems. Ouverson units ARE better units. I've had both of them apart side by side on a bench to compare. Ouverson's do stick out a bit further which, if any, might be the only drawback. They engage all the spline that's availabe, don't leak water, and don't have a cover/knob held on with 3 small screw. Saying that though, I must say that my Selectros have stood up to a pretty good pounding. Granted my M715 is *only* (LOL) 8040Lbs but running a 427 Big Block and 395 XML's is a pretty good test. Front hubs are kind of a novelty item as you'll have to run hell outta the truck to really ever make back the few cents a gallon savings and the $550 initial tag on them. I may swap them over from my M715 at some point since that's pretty much a trail truck now and possible go with an Ouverson single lockout and a single double splined rear axleshaft to unlock one of the rears...down the road. Oh, I run his double spined rear shafts and alloy drive flanges in the rear of my big M715 too. www.ouversonengineering.com <--good stuff!

 

[Boatcarpenter]

Ya Spicergear, I had read that about the O.E.M's quite a while back in the Forum when somebody added them to their Deuce and posted pics. It's a big investment with slow payback when there are sooo many other things to spend on!