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Fuel pumps, fuses, and no flow

Kaiserjeeps

Active member
459
7
28
Location
North Idaho in the woods
I have my CD in hand and will also look for the answer in there. It's not user friendly and I might get my answer here before I ever find it on the CD.
I just changed the primary fuel filter. I went to fill it with the fuel pump and got nothing. Should I feel the pump running? Should I be able to hear it?

I do indeed have 24 volts to the pump. Not sure why it's not pumping.

It ran fine beforehand with some changes in power levels. That made me want to change the filters since I never have.

Could my motor run without a fuel pump? It's a 69 kaiser multifuel that is turbocharged.

I need to remove about 10 lbs of paint to even get to the screw heads..

I am assuming the fuse is under the top cover... I'll start looking on the CD.

Thx...Al..
 

Kaiserjeeps

Active member
459
7
28
Location
North Idaho in the woods
Interesting Lee... I am going to start removing paint to remove and test the fuse.



Another thing I noticed. My primary filter consists of the outer can, 1 single steel washer that slides over the post and a filter element. It looks like I might be missing the spring, second washer a rubber seal and something else I can't quite make out. The housing cover had a conical taper to center the filter but it did not look like an effective seal. Do I have a style that is not in the manuals, or did some DPSO remove these pieces out of lazyness? The manuals show more parts than I have in hand...
 

Lee Alessi

Member
337
2
16
Location
Denham Springs/Louisiana
the filter is short. it resides on a brass "cone" (this seals the filter bottom) that sits on a washer that resides on a spring, that sits on another washer. the filter sits high enough to "seal" on the bottom of the filter housing lid. the spring holds sonstant pressure around the filter so fuel cannot bypass it. it sounds as if your filter is floating in midair trying to filter the fuel. it cannot be filtering anything in this condition.

as a result i would STRONGLY suggest changing BOTH secondarys, as they have now assumed the role of primary and secondary.

the truck my friend bought on saturday was direct from GL with all the stuff, albiet in the wrong order, resulting in not filtering any fuel. as a result it allowed a fair amount of debris to accumulate in BOTH secondarys.
 

Kaiserjeeps

Active member
459
7
28
Location
North Idaho in the woods
Looks like I have a bad pump. I was able to make it run but its marginal at best. It has an intermittent no run problem. A sharp rap on the side of the tank and I'm able to bleed the filter housings. It IS the motor as all connections are sound and I do have 24 volts at the motor lead. I knocked it on the bench and it would run. Slow but it ran. I'll order another one if they are not to much. The final looks good. Some minor stuff. Hopefully no worries later. I'll need the components for my primary. I'll get them asap. Thanks Lee. when the pump fired in the tank you could definately tell. I have been driving this truck for a year with a bad pump. Maybe I can pop a wheelie when its fixed...LOL
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
GA Mountains
Bargains on the in tank pumps are few and far inbetween. Usually a few hundred dollars or more. Some folks mount a 24 volt external pump to help keep the cost down. Several folks have reported fixing them but I have no independent knowledge of that. I think I'll be trying that if mine ever quit.
 

bomar76

New member
355
0
0
Location
Marysville OH
One thing to keep in the back of your mind with any vehicle with an in tank pump (most of the ones on the road anymore) is you shouldn't let the tank run low and especially don't run it low a lot.
The in tank pumps are cooled by the fuel in the tank and the lower volume causes them to run hotter and shorten the life of the pump.
 

ken

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,479
25
38
Location
Houston Texas
When i first got my truck the lift pump ran when it felt like it . After dissasembling it i found slime between the impeller and the valute housing. When i cleaned it with carb cleaner it ran great and has been for a few years now. The slime was bogging it down and over heating it. Your pump could be trash but i would remove the suction screen and clean it out first. There is also a gear driven fuel pump in the bottom of the injection pump. The truck will run fine without the lift pump, but will be greatly under powered. You might try draining the water from the fuel tank. The fuel we get now days is horrible. Slime or alge will form in diesel with the presence of water. Good luck
 

Loose Deuce

New member
470
0
0
Location
South MS.
You may want to check your hot wire that plugs into the top assy, where the fuse is. I wasnt getting a good connection, wiggleing the plug gets it working some times. :)
 

Kaiserjeeps

Active member
459
7
28
Location
North Idaho in the woods
Interesting, It appears my lift (tank) pump runs when it feels like it. I did take off the pump from the motor. The mag drive was clean and it seems the problem is in the motor. I have noticed differences in power. Runs hard sometimes and others it feels like my brakes are dragging.

Will driving it this way hurt my injection pump or anything else??? I don't have 300 extra bucks right now.. I'll park it if I have to.

Does anyone know a good source for a pump? I already called saturn and no go...
 

spicergear

New member
2,307
26
0
Location
Millerstown, PA
When I first got mine I had to drive it from the Jersey shoreline to central Pa on the PA Turnpike. Jerkwad I got it from told me batteries were good and charging system was good too. I turned on the headlights...just to be a good boy while driving a humongous uninsured vehicle on the turnpike...and after about an hour and a half it would start to just cut out then pick back up, then cut out and pick back up. I pulled over and checked stuff, pulled into a rest stop and shut it down for a while. It barely restarted and I knew I'd been had on the charging system. Another 30 miles and it cut out real bad a couple times then just wound down so I threw in the clutch and let it stall and coasted into a pull ove near the Denver Cold Storage building on the PA TP...pissed as hell. Left a note. Called in a wicked favor I had hoped to save for some time and got it roll backed the 50 remaining miles to the farm. Turned the truck on and nothing. Charged up the batteries, hit the button and it fired right up. Alternator had been shorted long time. Others may not have had this problem, but my truck wouldn't keep going without the lift pump. I did all the fuel system and rpm tests on the motor as it says in the manual and the motor/fuel system filters, air/fuel, were fine and it pulled the 2800 or 2900rpm fine.
 

da_sgt

Member
555
4
18
Location
Rifle, Colorado
Well if ya check some past posts on the same topic. you'll see I ran for over a year with a non running pump :freaked: And as a habit (maybe good, maybe bad), if I was off road I shut the power switch off anyway. No need for stop, turn lights and the such. Sometimes you get lucky, sometimes you don't ;-)
 

Kaiserjeeps

Active member
459
7
28
Location
North Idaho in the woods
I'm getting prices from 345.00 to 500.00 !!!! It runs but I just don't want to do any damage to the injection pump. I can get the pump motor to run but it seems slow. I have a buddy nearby that said his place of employment uses dueces and is parting a duece out. I am hoping I can get a hold of that motor. We will see. It could be a gold mine...
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
34,012
1,808
113
Location
GA Mountains
In light of the prices of in tank pumps, some folks use an extrnal 24V pump mounted under the bed or on the frame. Not exactly original but functional and many hundred dollars cheaper.
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
34,012
1,808
113
Location
GA Mountains
I've purchased entire trucks to get some good tires. Now the GL is running things the bargain residue truck is far & few.
 
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