Fully immersing water heater element in WMO

[Crawdaddy]

I'm ready to start building a small-scale WMO Filtering setup out of a beer keg. Metal 55 gallon barrels shouldn't be hard to find, but so far they are. Since the keg is aluminum and I only have a 120-volt flux core welder, I can't weld in bungs to hold the water heater elements. But, I've read that they can be simply dumped into the oil and turned on since oil is non-conductive. Somehow I don't believe that. My WMO is primarily used motor oil thinned with small amounts of gasoline.

 

[Cruceno]

I've heard and read of people using a water heater element, but honestly that scares the crap out of me for all the obvious reasons. I'd rather go with a heater blanket of sorts and wrap the outside.

 

[RAYZER]

In my opinion,Thinning wmo with gas makes it explosive, thinning with diesel works well with less danger.

 

[wdbtchr]

I'm really not comfortable with the idea of a heating coil laying on the bottom of an aluminum keg in the presence of dirty oil(think acid from combustion)! Were you planning on a ground fault interrupter? I really think you need to find a steel drum, they're not as common these days because of plastic drums used these days but they're still out there.

 

[dikwks]

An old fuel oil tank is not hard to come by. Steel and bungs already there.

 

[Crawdaddy]

An old fuel oil tank is not hard to come by. Steel and bungs already there.

If you live in the north where fuel oil is used. Down here we rarely need heat at all.

 

[Keith_J]

Not a problem as long as the element is grounded. Current flows through small diameter resistance wire inside the metal sheath, insulated with ceramic or other electrically insulating substance.

The ground is needed in case the element burns out as they like to short out against the sheath.

Now, there is another problem here, but dealing with oil. It has lower specific heat and poorer thermal conductivity than water so it could overheat. I would only run 120 volts through a 240 element. That is a safe 1/4 power output compared to its listed power.

 

[Beyond Biodiesel]

Once you have blended gasoline at 20% with WMO, then leave it to settle for 1-4 weeks, then all of the water will have settled out with most of the particle load, therefore there is no reason to use a heating element.

Blending diesel fuel with waste oils does almost nothing. It neither forces the water out of solution, nor does it thin the waste oil sufficiently to function like diesel fuel.

 

[4x4 Forever]

Crawdaddy, you do not have an oil distributor around??
I scored 20 real nice ones a couple of years ago when we had lube delivered and they could not bring it bulk...

Might also want to try thinning with kerosene...

 

[Beyond Biodiesel]

Might also want to try thinning with kerosene...

Yes, kerosene works at about 40%.

 

[larrysmachine]

Crawdaddy,
If you want to drive to DeRidder I have a steel barrel or two you can have. Pm me.
Larry

 

[Jeepsinker]

I've got a few too. Also have a good source for more barrels both plastic and steel, also can get poly totes in 265 and 330 gal sizes.

 

[6x6TRex]

If you cant find a steel drum why not just use an old water heater?

 

[CParks]

Once you have blended gasoline at 20% with WMO, then leave it to settle for 1-4 weeks, then all of the water will have settled out with most of the particle load, therefore there is no reason to use a heating element.

Blending diesel fuel with waste oils does almost nothing. It neither forces the water out of solution, nor does it thin the waste oil sufficiently to function like diesel fuel.

I know this is an older thread but like this guy said the UG will help filter it better. I found it best to add the fuel before running trough centrifuge.

 

[BoogymanB4]

I have a small wmo set up made from a 55 gal steel drum with removable lid. I used a electrical box flange with a 1 1/4 threaded hole on the top of my drum. I use a 1500 watt water heater element in pipe tee and elbow set up. the wmo is pumped through the heater then to the drum. when oil is at 120f i then close the bypass valve and the oil goes through a centrifuge. I run it for 8 hours the water is gone crud is removed then its ready to burn in my deuce. The element when cleaned off can be used for 2 or 3 runs. I use filter socks to get the big junk out before I put in the drum. 25 then 1 micron nested. My system works great, I mix in 5 gals. rug in the fuel tank to help starting in winter. Ive turned up the pump on my truck but still under 1100f. My system saved me about $1600.00 in fuel costs last year. Ive figured it costs me about a penny a mile to feed my truck. I get the wmo for free.

 

[Seth_O]

I built mine using a steel 55ga drum. I had a flattened spot on the side from the previous owner, a small dent. I drilled a hole in it and installed a 240v heater element. It was threaded on the end and came with a foam seal and a metal knurled nut; I got it from ACE for like $15. It made a liquid tight seal. I use it with a 120v outlet and just watch it for overheating (its never happened), works out great. I installed it about 6-8" up from the bottom of the barrel and I get the oil up to 100*+ in about 15-20mins. I also cut a hole and soldered in (think copper pipe soldering) a brass drain spigot at the bottom for draining off any water/junk that settles out. I've opened it up once and gotten nothing but useable WMO out, and its never leaked - even once.