Geared hub in progress.

[Floridianson]

First of all why do the let someone that does not know what there doing work on the axles.
Thanks to Steve I started digging into the front end. Right side was looking ok but drivers side had fine metallic tint to the oil. Here I found the so called mechanic left out the thrust bearing washer. The cap has some damage and the side gear has some wear plus a good nick in the face. Thrust bearing bad to. New thrust bearing and washer in pic. So I will take the bad cap and cut off the face and use it as the cross retainer to measure the correct gap on the gears. Thanks again Steve 6x6x6.

 

[scottmandu]

That dent in the gear looks like a needle bearing was crushed between the gear and the thrust pad.

 

[DiverDarrell]

Perfect use for the old cap. I imagine without the trust washer, the hub must have been making some noise, with the gear lash being so out on one end. Nice looking combat rims, are you not going to run the ctis?

 

[Floridianson]

Yea think this is where my noise was coming from. No CTIS, I will just stay on road and out of the sugar sand. I chose not to go all the way in and just check the outside gearing. That's why I left the tire on to save time and my back. Next time I will repack inner wheel bearings or just remove the outer seal and do both wheel bearings oil floating. I did jack the truck up to take pressure off hub when I checked the bearing nut torque. Now just waiting on the shim kits I ordered and get the end cap cut. Trying to get it right for the Denton show.

 

[NDT]

I would highly suggest you remove the outer bearing and clean it of the filings and shavings that may have worked in there. Leave a little weight on the tire and remove the nut, and the bearing will pop right out.

 

[Floridianson]

Well being Knee deep it was silly not to go all the way to my neck. Good thing as the inner bearing had old and very little grease. I am starting to warm up to the FMTV as this sure is going easy with the way the drum and stuff is easy to get apart. The pic show how the inner hub seal is held on to the spindle with a retainer. I decided not to replace the inner seal so no special tool needed. Now to do the two rear axles and call it good. I think anyone with a FMTV should do all the hubs on repacking the inner bearing.

 

[Floridianson]

I cleaned the hub face and cross slots with a scotch bright pad and then repacked bearing. I went with extra grease in the hub area and race.

 

[800summit]

I used to use the red tacky grease, on my M35A2. but since I go through so much deep water, I went to the Chevron Black Perl Grease, for application I am using. the Red would not hold up for me. If you wont be driving in deep water the red will be fine.

 

[DiverDarrell]

I do believe the grease seal on very inboard side should have been installed into the hub and not stuck to the spindle. Mainly to prevent damage while installing the hub. But if it works, it works. Good job on your repair!!!

 

[Floridianson]

No the way the inner seal is set up it installed on mine it is held in place by a steel ring on the spindle. Yes on 5 ton 809 and 939 series it is.
Here I got the groovy cool tool Steve showed use how to make and I had a damage cap. It took four tries to get the correct shims in but believe I got it correct. Had to use the Mexican micrometer to gage the size. LOL
I use High Tack gasket sealer on hub and end cap.

 

[Floridianson]

If you read post 6 again I said the inner seal is held on the spindle with a steel retainer. Here you can see in the pic the steel retainer. So there would be no way to put the steel retainer on after the hub and bearing. I don't know if all FMTV's are this way but that's what I found on mine.

 

[Suprman]

Looks like fun. The parts tm should show the assembly order. There are some minor brake and wiring differences 1998 and after. Not sure if anything in the axles changed.

 

[Floridianson]

I know it does not make sense. On both sides of the axle the inner seal stayed on the spindle with the locking ring. The seal did not even spin. I tried to ease one off but I would have damage it and the seal. The TM does show the hub seal in the hub and says to remove it. Nothing about that locking ring. O well went back together and not leaking but it does feel wrong as to the way all the other seals I have done. I guess if that ring was placed in the hub then the seal installed it might on install lock on the spindle. If I have trouble I will order new seals and do it again.
I'm going to pull the rears and do them so I guess I will see in less someone know for sure.

 

[DiverDarrell]

Here is a photo for reference of that seal not installed, the only seals my hub had that were retained were the ctis seals into the hub, I hope I'm not missing parts lol.. I want to say I used either red amsoil or the hd Lucas equipment blue green grease on my inner bearing. Easy enough to re grease every year.

 

[Floridianson]

No your not missing anything. Just bothered Steve 6X6x6 again and he said I was ok as the way the seal works. The way he described it the seal rubber does not run around the spindle the way most do. The seal spins inside of its self and the rubber on the spindle stays put. Looks like I might have gotten lucky on putting it back together but when I do the rears I will have new seals and install them in the hub. That way I know the line up will be OK. Thanks Steve for saving my sanity.

 

[Adventure Driven]

This is great, I wish so bad we could get a list of part numbers for the seals, new bearings if one wanted to replace them and anything other parts required to do this. I am getting ready to tear into mine soon to grease the bearings and just want to make sure I have everything on hand. Waiting on parts is the worst so having everything on hand would be so sweet.

Seth

 

[Floridianson]

OK had the gears a little to loose and they still were a little noisy so back apart. Got the new inner hub seals and had the seal driver so lets do the inner seal right this time. The hub did seat on the seal I left in there like Steve said but in the immortal words of Thumper. ( Do it nice or do it twice) or was it if you don't have anything nice to say don't say anything at all.

 

[Adventure Driven]

Where did you get that huge seal driver ? I need one as I am getting ready to do all of this

Seth

OK had the gears a little to loose and they still were a little noisy so back apart. Got the new inner hub seals and had the seal driver so lets do the inner seal right this time. The hub did seat on the seal I left in there like Steve said but in the immortal words of Thumper. ( Do it nice or do it twice) or was it if you don't have anything nice to say don't say anything at all.

 

[Floridianson]

Seth I got it off Ebay for 30 bucks and got lucky it was for the inner hub seal. You most likely can do it with out the driver as the seal is easy to get to because the drum is not in the way of hammering. You can see the hub is well open to work that seal. I am just anial and have to have tools.
Another member gave me the seal # 120501093E but I just bought the maintainence kit off ebay for 150 bucks shipped and it had the six seals in the kit. I figured it was cheaper that way.
If anyone get the kit and only needs four of the inner hub seals I will buy there extra inner hub seals.

 

[Floridianson]

OK digging in to the rear that someone milked and it does not look good. Outer bearing and race looks ok but the inner is trashed. So new bearing and race for this side and bought two sets incase the other side is the same way. Had to drive out the CTIS seals to get to the inner race and I am going with both bearings oil floating. So if anyone want these extra CTIS hub seals just pay shipping. There are twelve of them. How hard is it to check when you go swimming for water? Lazy Lazy Lazy.