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Hard-top vs Soft Top

Sigi

Member
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Location
Portland/OR
I'm trying to decide whether to go with a hard top or soft top for the 4 man conversion. I was leaning towards soft top but then I saw a couple of videos showing the installation of the Plan B hard top and rear curtain. Seems well built and includes the C pillar which I need. The soft top I'm looking at is from Midwest Mil Equip. Hard top cost is about 2x of soft top. But in the overall scheme of things (4k doors, 2k seats, paint etc) might not be a complete deal breaker.

One question I have is noise. Would the hard top amplify the internal noise via reflections? Tuna can effect? The soft top/curtain might flutter at higher speed creating noise. Do people end up putting sound dampening material on the hard top? Does anybody have experience with both tops?

PS: I read through all Humvee threads while I was waiting for the EUC several months ago but I don't recall anybody comparing noise between the tops.
 

MarkM

CODE BROWN...It's all going to sh~t !
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There is very little you can do to quiet down these things to any real level without changing the truck into something it's not. Most go with an intercom system for the noise. Either a Vic system or an aviation setup.. I like the hard top but the real hardtop and turret system is great but will run you about 8 to 10k for the parts. I like the soft top but that's me. The reg soft doors do make the truck louder than the X doors but not enough to write home about.

Mark
 

Autonomy_Lost

Well-known member
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Location
Pennsylvania
I have hard doors and a soft top. I do like the combination, it looks good and I have no functional issues. I've thought about doing a hard top but I don't think it will have much of a benefit unless I do the full conversion with a turret, which as MarkM mentioned will run 8-10K. That's way too much for what I have into this truck.

One possible benefit of a hard top is that in theory it should last forever. The soft top has a finite lifespan, especially if it spends a lot of time in the sun. I have no idea what that lifespan is. The hard top should last forever as long as you keep the paint in good condition and keep it from rusting (or buy an aluminum top).

I think I'll stick with the soft top at least until it wears out and it's time for a replacement.
 

Action

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East Tennessee
I am not a big fan of the aftermarket hard tops. It seems almost all of them are solid mounted to windshield frame and roll bars. No flex. It seems like you would hear them pop as the body tries to flex
 

JetbikeAnt

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Elverson, PA
I have had both. The soft top was much louder when driven. I like my hardtop, but its also much hotter in the Truck in the summer. I do miss my soft doors. Taking them off and storing them in the back for that door-less ride home was the "Cats Nuts". Each has there advantages and disadvantages. With that said I went with a Turret delete Hardtop.
 

Sigi

Member
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Location
Portland/OR
I have had both. The soft top was much louder when driven. I like my hardtop, but its also much hotter in the Truck in the summer. I do miss my soft doors. Taking them off and storing them in the back for that door-less ride home was the "Cats Nuts". Each has there advantages and disadvantages. With that said I went with a Turret delete Hardtop.
Appreciate for your feedback. So you are not experiencing any droning in your hard top caused by resonance of the metal roof with noise from the tunnel? Since the two surfaces are parallel and made of unclad metal there would be standing acoustic waves between them amplifying noise. Of course, this is all relative in a Humvee. Still, going from 100db to 110db would still double perceived noise.
 

Retiredwarhorses

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Appreciate for your feedback. So you are not experiencing any droning in your hard top caused by resonance of the metal roof with noise from the tunnel? Since the two surfaces are parallel and made of unclad metal there would be standing acoustic waves between them amplifying noise. Of course, this is all relative in a Humvee. Still, going from 100db to 110db would still double perceived noise.
the more Uninsulated metal you add to the trucks cab, the higher the cab noise level…
 

blutow

Well-known member
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Location
Austin, TX
I'm totally new to these trucks and I elected to go with a soft top. One of my assumptions was that a soft top would radiate less heat to the interior compared to a hard top. They will both heat up, but my experience with metal roof/walls in cargo vans is that all metal surfaces exposed to the sun become too hot to touch and they turn the interior into an oven unless heavily insulated. I don't have any experience with a hmmwv metal roof, so I'd defer to folks more experienced to say whether my assumptions are right about the heating effect from a metal roof. I would also think a metal roof might pull heat out of the cab quicker than canvas in cold weather, but that isn't going to be as dramatic as heating from the sun (which could be a positive if you live in a cold climate).
We have not had any real heat yet this year in TX, but we've had several days in the 90's and I was pleasently surprised that I wasn't cooking in the truck with all the windows on my soft doors unzipped. My feet were a bit warm from the tunnel heating up and lack of airflow down there, but not too bad. I'm sure it will be a different deal when we get over 100F in Aug/Sept. I may pull the doors off as we get into summer, but I think A/C is probably the onlty thing to make the truck tolerable once it gets hot.
 

MarkM

CODE BROWN...It's all going to sh~t !
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A word of advice. Have you soft doors zipper webbing restitched as the military stitching was not UV protected properly and WILL fail over time. One other thing grab the metal zipper tab when opening and closing the window as if you use the fabric loop it pulls on the webbing much more.

Mark
 

JetbikeAnt

Active member
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43
Location
Elverson, PA
Appreciate for your feedback. So you are not experiencing any droning in your hard top caused by resonance of the metal roof with noise from the tunnel? Since the two surfaces are parallel and made of unclad metal there would be standing acoustic waves between them amplifying noise. Of course, this is all relative in a Humvee. Still, going from 100db to 110db would still double perceived noise.
No I have not, but I will revisit your question after I'm done installing the Thermal/sound deadening insulation. IMO the soft-top was louder. The slapping noise at speed drove me crazy. It was a new top and was tight as shit, but that made no difference.
 
36
29
18
Location
New Braunfels, Tx
I took a 5 by 5 foot piece of wood and then dyna matted the whole thing on both sides. I then took a heavy duty rug material and matted that on the inside. We secured the wood to vehicle and the replaced the soft top. The top is very tight to the roof/vehicle and does not flap. It helped a ton. I've also dyna decked the center strip and matted it with wood and then rhino lined that as well. The more you can dyna matte the inside the better. If that doesn't work you can always fill the entire inside with speakers, subs and amps and just blast your music like I do. Good luck
 
36
29
18
Location
New Braunfels, Tx
No I have not, but I will revisit your question after I'm done installing the Thermal/sound deadening insulation. IMO the soft-top was louder. The slapping noise at speed drove me crazy. It was a new top and was tight as shit, but that made no difference.

If you can insert a piece of wood and then carpet it, it will help immensely. Mine was tight before the install and it drove me nuts as well. With the "new" roof and the sound deadening stuff, it helps a ton. A 5 by 5 sheet covers 95% of the roof and allows you to get the cover back on. I doubled up on the front of the board on both sides to get the most out of the dyna matte.
 

SmartDrug

Well-known member
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Location
Saint Charles, IL
If you can insert a piece of wood and then carpet it, it will help immensely. Mine was tight before the install and it drove me nuts as well. With the "new" roof and the sound deadening stuff, it helps a ton. A 5 by 5 sheet covers 95% of the roof and allows you to get the cover back on. I doubled up on the front of the board on both sides to get the most out of the dyna matte.
Would it be possible to post some pictures of how this looks? I'm very curious to see this!
 
36
29
18
Location
New Braunfels, Tx
Would it be possible to post some pictures of how this looks? I'm very curious to see this!

I absolutely will. We bought the wood from McCoy's as they were the only ones who had the right size pre cut. This was for a M998. We matted both sides with dyna matte...two packs should cover both sides. I doubled up on the front as I wanted to provide as much support for my overhead speakers. We then bought a cheap but durable section of rug from Lowes and cut it to cover the entire front and back of the board. I used 3m spray glue and a staple gun to lay it down. Once that done we mounted it to the overhead rails and remounted the soft top. We mounted the board with metal screws. I have not had a single issue.

For the center drive - we traced out the entire middle with cardboard. I then used another half inch piece of wood and dyna decked that. The dyna deck matches both my radio shroud and my sub - both are rhino lined. We installed the wood cut out and screwed it down. I also notched it so fit tight under the sub. We usually take a dog with us so the deck works to kill the sound and can be blown off/detailed as well and gives them a good place to sit.

My truck has tube doors so I worked hard to try and sound proof as much as I could. I may look at the floor matts and do something but at this point its easier to add speakers. Anything I can do help, please ask. The roof idea came from Mungle Brothers in Dripping Springs, Texas. They do sales and custom builds. We came up with the center drive cover ourselves.
 

MarkM

CODE BROWN...It's all going to sh~t !
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,081
1,969
113
Location
WOBURN. MA.
If you can insert a piece of wood and then carpet it, it will help immensely. Mine was tight before the install and it drove me nuts as well. With the "new" roof and the sound deadening stuff, it helps a ton. A 5 by 5 sheet covers 95% of the roof and allows you to get the cover back on. I doubled up on the front of the board on both sides to get the most out of the dyna matte.

Any pics? Hard to invasion.

Mark
 

Superhonk

New member
23
16
3
Location
Omaha, NE
I’m beating my head against the wall debating on a somewhat realistically affordable used soft top that the upholstery man at my local bike shop could do some minor repair work on, or going full retard and trying to attempt a homemade fiberglass/carbon fiber hard top while having no experience with either material. But I have several redneck friends that make top shelf in ground blinds for duck and goose massacres, and several more shit kicking farm hands who drink diesel fuel and Busch lattes by the gallon, they may not be much good at jeopardy or bathing, but they can nascar a 6.0 powerstroke to the point you might actually believe it’s not a bad truck.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Sigi

Member
66
82
18
Location
Portland/OR
Well, I went back and forth on the decision. Finally decided to go with a hard top. I ordered the Plan B aluminum hard top and back curtain kit. Since it is built to order, it will take a few weeks to arrive. Will keep you guys posted.
 
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