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Help Identifying Alternator

SteveKuhn

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Mine went out on me this weekend. However, after reading all the alternator threads, I have reason to believe it's been failing for a while. I'm going to do some basics like cleaning the ground, running some of the tests mention in the TMs and threads, but before I make a decision on what to do next, I'm trying to identify the model I have. By the looks of this illustration from Cranetruck, I have the very undesirable Leece-Neville w/out fan.

Thread: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?18291-WTB-Deuce-Alternator

Graphic showing types: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=76540&d=1203166743

By the looks of the tag, it has already been rebuilt. Can someone give me a sanity check on what I have so I know what I'm working with (or against?)

Thanks.

Steve
 

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NDT

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I see a fan there. You have the Leece-Neville which a personally believe is more reliable than the Prestolite. Clean up the connections, make sure you are getting excite voltage at the little wire. Still no green needle, then you are out $300 bucks or so.
 

SteveKuhn

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Thanks for the comments.

To me it looks like casting and vents rather than the distinct fans that I see in Cranetruck's illustration. Here's another shot that I didn't use initially because it's sorta crappy.

I read about the civvy replacements and the brackets but I'm not quite there yet.

And the EBay NOS prices are off the charts. I saw the one here in the classifieds.

Steve
 

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NDT

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I see a front mounted fan. NOS is not really necessary. They will smoke just as fast as a 40 yr old one. Someone here will fix you up.
 

welldigger

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Do what I and others have done. Just put a civi Delco style on and be done with it. I can go through a lot of $106 civi ones before I can touch a new military version.

AHADR0009


http://www.psep.biz/store/delco_alternator.htm

And TM America bracket or brackets. M35 or M809 series trucks.
Ditto. Just so everyone knows, leese nevelle and presolite are one in the same. Have been for years.

Do the civi civersion. You won't be disappointed.
 

NDT

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Ditto. Just so everyone knows, leese nevelle and presolite are one in the same. Have been for years.
Welldigger, don't confuse everyone in an alternator ID thread, the Leece-Neville and Prestolite 60A alternators are physically very different and do not share parts.
 

welldigger

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Welldigger, don't confuse everyone in an alternator ID thread, the Leece-Neville and Prestolite 60A alternators are physically very different and do not share parts.
Yes, you are correct. Excuse me for throwing in a bit of trivia that may help locate a source of repair parts.

I never said they were the same unit.
 
Last edited:

SteveKuhn

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Update: 1st, NDT was right about the fan, so I guess it's a L-N 3002 AE. Went over today, cleaned all contacts thoroughly, traced & tested for continuity & shorts and went through the basic troubleshooting steps from M35Tom here:

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...nator-wiring&p=1398072&viewfull=1#post1398072

the alt is very simple, most people want to complicate it because i guess they don't know how it works. there is the large wire that has voltage on it all the time. make sure it is the same voltage you read at the batteries. this will confirm there is no bad connection causing voltage drop. there is a ground wire sometimes, mine has none and works because it is all bolted to the engine that is grounded. last there is the 14 ga wire that is not really 'the exciter' wire, but it tells the regulator that the switch is on and it is ok to start charging. you have to have power on this wire when the engine is running or it will not charge. do not trust the volt meter on the dash, check things with a known accurate tester. it is that simple.

With batteries in, we had current to the 'switch-on' wire but nothing more than battery voltage coming out of the main feed at alternator, starter or battery. It's shot.

Q1: Is there a downside to taking it out by removing the (3) bracket bolts in the block? The front & rear castle nuts are pretty badly rusted and one of the cotter pins snapped off both ends trying to remove it. Seems cleaner to take off the alt and bracket and remove & clean up those castle nuts off the truck.

Q2: Is this the bracket provide by TM America for the civvy alternator replacement?

Thanks.

Steve
 

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welldigger

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Ya can remove the whole bracket if the bolts aren't too tight. I had to cut the heads off of the bolts on mine and beat the bracket with a hammer to get it off. The bolt heads were too rusty to get a socket on.

Tmamerica's bracket completely replaces the factory one. Bolt on replacement.
 

whatadeuce

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Hello welldigger, and I just bordered the unit , as I have two deuces, and will need it at some time for sure. Do you have that bracket contact?
 
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