• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Here We Go Again Low Voltage M1009

Keith_J

Keith_J

Well-known member
3,657
1,323
113
Location
Schertz TX
jplace1011 said:
@Keith_J p.s. that stripped Bolt has 2 cables attached: One that runs along the frame to the back, the other goes to the Front Battery. There’s also that burned out wire for communications that everyone says I can remove.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
That would only affect the driver side alternator and from battery. IIRC, the problem is with the passenger alternator and aft battery.
 
jplace1011

jplace1011

Well-known member
462
489
63
Location
Santa Ana, CA
Keith_J said:
That would only affect the driver side alternator and from battery. IIRC, the problem is with the passenger alternator and aft battery.
Click to expand...



I replaced the Passengers Side Alternator Plug today and also discovered the Orange Fusable Link to that Alternator was barely attached. I was able to give it a light tug and it easily detached. So I cut the end of the Wire and Reattached it to the Loop End and placed it back in the Alternator. I also cleaned up all the wire ends in the process.












I discovered the Ground Wire for the Passengers Side Turn Signal was detached, so after cleaning the socket I reattached it.

Unfortunately when I did the same thing to the Drivers Side socket part of the Brass Piece broke off and is now stuck in the socket.




Does anyone know the Part Numbers for a new Ground Wire Brass end and a New Socket and where to purchase these parts?

All is all nothing has changed and the Alternator situation seems doomed. Here are the results from today after about a 40 min drive:







It seems the only explinations are: I didn’t Crimp something properly today, one or more of the Wires between the Alternator and the Rear Battery are damaged or loose, Or the Alternator is Bad.

Thoughts??

An RPG seems like a really great fix as well!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
Lil Pete

Lil Pete

Member
19
52
13
Location
California
Replacing any fuseable link that is fried is advised. When I first got my truck it was not charging because of fuseable links that did their jobs. My guess is that someone previously shorted something by accident .
Also, check to see if the voltage gauge shows on start up that it is cycling up. You should see the needle move up ( toward green) and back and hear a clicking as it moves. My gauge is close to the yellow also, so that may not be abnormal. Some alternator internal voltage regulators put out more power than others.
 
Last edited:
jplace1011

jplace1011

Well-known member
462
489
63
Location
Santa Ana, CA
Lil Pete said:
Replacing any fuseable link that is fried is advised. When I first got my truck it was not charging because of fuseable links that did their jobs. My guess is that someone previously shorted something by accident .
Also, check to see if the voltage gauge shows on start up that it is cycling up. You should see the needle move up ( toward green) and back and hear a clicking as it moves. My gauge is close to the yellow also, so that may not be abnormal. Some alternator internal voltage regulators put out more power than others.
Click to expand...
@Lil Pete Replace the Fusable Link? Ok that’s an idea. If I’m correct the Fusable Link Wire has to be smaller than the other section of wire. Beyond that I don’t know how to install it?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
jplace1011

jplace1011

Well-known member
462
489
63
Location
Santa Ana, CA
jplace1011 said:
@Lil Pete Replace the Fusable Link? Ok that’s an idea. If I’m correct the Fusable Link Wire has to be smaller than the other section of wire. Beyond that I don’t know how to install it?

It says 20 on the End of the Orange damaged Fusible Link. Is that the size Fusible Link it is? As in, I should purchase a 20 Gauge Fusible Link?





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Squibbly

Squibbly

Well-known member
408
1,039
93
Location
Alabama
jplace1011 said:
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
That snapped off so close to the ring terminal, why don't you just strip the wire end and crimp on another ring terminal (I'd probably reopen the one that was on it and try to re-crimp it)? It looks like there is enough wire left to do that.

I did another video on testing the plug going into the alternator.
The red wite is a voltage test and should tell you what the voltage of the battery is.
You need to make sure with the key turned you have 12v to the non-red (I think it was brown once) exciter wire.
If there is not 12v to that brown wire with the key turned the generator cannot output DC voltage to the battery.
 
Last edited:
jplace1011

jplace1011

Well-known member
462
489
63
Location
Santa Ana, CA
Squibbly said:
That snapped off so close to the ring terminal, why don't you just strip the wire end and crimp on another ring terminal (I'd probably reopen the one that was on it and try to re-crimp it)? It looks like there is enough wire left to do that.

I did another video on testing the plug going into the alternator.
The red wite is a voltage test and should tell you what the voltage of the battery is.
You need to make sure with the key turned you have 12v to the non-red (I think it was brown once) exciter wire.
If there is not 12v to that brown wire with the key turned the generator cannot output DC voltage to the battery.
Click to expand...
@Squibbly you’re right about the snapping off. I already cut that end and re-attached it to the Loop. I found another nicked piece of wire up near where the plastic piece is with 20 written in it. See Pic below.




I still am not sure of the Gauge of that Orange Wire. Is it 20, that’s why it has the 20 on the end?? It seems best to just replace that Fusible Link. I just need to know the size of the New Wire and how to install it.









I do have One other thought. Maybe, just maybe it’s the Other Thick Red Cable that’s attached at the same spot. It has Electric Tape wrapped on the end that attaches to the Alternator. I’ll remove the cable and unwrap the tape.



If you look at the Chart below, trace the Red Cable from Alt 2 to the Bus Terminal. It’s the only Red Cable that’s solo from the back Alt. 2. It splices into a Fusible Link before reaching the Buss Barr. I’ll see if I can find that Fusible Link and check it as well.




I’ll watch your video about testing the Plug. Thank you for that, it should help.

I love that GIF by the way. Hilarious man!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
E

ezgn

Well-known member
650
1,039
93
Location
Lake Elsinore Ca.
jplace1011 said:



I replaced the Passengers Side Alternator Plug today and also discovered the Orange Fusable Link to that Alternator was barely attached. I was able to give it a light tug and it easily detached. So I cut the end of the Wire and Reattached it to the Loop End and placed it back in the Alternator. I also cleaned up all the wire ends in the process.












I discovered the Ground Wire for the Passengers Side Turn Signal was detached, so after cleaning the socket I reattached it.

Unfortunately when I did the same thing to the Drivers Side socket part of the Brass Piece broke off and is now stuck in the socket.




Does anyone know the Part Numbers for a new Ground Wire Brass end and a New Socket and where to purchase these parts?

All is all nothing has changed and the Alternator situation seems doomed. Here are the results from today after about a 40 min drive:







It seems the only explinations are: I didn’t Crimp something properly today, one or more of the Wires between the Alternator and the Rear Battery are damaged or loose, Or the Alternator is Bad.

Thoughts??

An RPG seems like a really great fix as well!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
AC Delco Professional LS248 Multi Purpose Light Socket. Amazon front ls8
 
Last edited:
jplace1011

jplace1011

Well-known member
462
489
63
Location
Santa Ana, CA
jplace1011 said:
@Squibbly you’re right about the snapping off. I already cut that end and re-attached it to the Loop. I found another nicked piece of wire up near where the plastic piece is with 20 written in it. See Pic below.




I still am not sure of the Gauge of that Orange Wire. Is it 20, that’s why it has the 20 on the end?? It seems best to just replace that Fusible Link. I just need to know the size of the New Wire and how to install it.









I do have One other thought. Maybe, just maybe it’s the Other Thick Red Cable that’s attached at the same spot. It has Electric Tape wrapped on the end that attaches to the Alternator. I’ll remove the cable and unwrap the tape.



If you look at the Chart below, trace the Red Cable from Alt 2 to the Bus Terminal. It’s the only Red Cable that’s solo from the back Alt. 2. It splices into a Fusible Link before reaching the Buss Barr. I’ll see if I can find that Fusible Link and check it as well.




I’ll watch your video about testing the Plug. Thank you for that, it should help.

I love that GIF by the way. Hilarious man!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
@cucvrus Rick do you happen to know the Gauge of the Orange Fusible Link that runs out the Back of Alternator 2?? I noticed there’s a 20 printed on the Black Plastic Piece/Cap, but that may not be it/matter?










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
jplace1011

jplace1011

Well-known member
462
489
63
Location
Santa Ana, CA
Squibbly said:
.5 sq mm fusible link is a 20 gauge fusible link.


I'd go with the 20ft roll of it for the price.
Click to expand...
@Squibbly I just ordered the 20 Gauge Link from Napa. It will be ready for pick up in just 2 hours.

I also just picked up a New Turn Signal Socket. I’ll now be able to hopefully kill 3 birds with one stone once I get all the parts.

I may have another question or two.

I’ll report back, thank you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
jplace1011

jplace1011

Well-known member
462
489
63
Location
Santa Ana, CA
jplace1011 said:
@cucvrus The site isn’t working, a Server problem. Oh well, I’ll try again later.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
@Squibbly here are the results (below) of the Alternator Plug Test. Everything looks good?

I still need to replace the Fusible Link and check that second Wire, the one that’s taped up.







Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
Squibbly

Squibbly

Well-known member
408
1,039
93
Location
Alabama
jplace1011 said:
@Squibbly here are the results (below) of the Alternator Plug Test. Everything looks good?

I still need to replace the Fusible Link and check that second Wire, the one that’s taped up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
So we know power to the regulator through that exciter wire is good.
If that is the case, and you still don't see 14.8 coming out of the posts on that generator with the engine running , then it's toast I believe.
Odd that someone would have 3 bad generators, especially with one being brand new.

You may want to call hillbilly and have him walk you through some tests, but I think you've covered them all.
 
Keith_J

Keith_J

Well-known member
3,657
1,323
113
Location
Schertz TX
Sounds like a bad regulator if the main connections test out good. Solid red, Bat+, should be voltage of both batteries, red with white stripe should be front battery voltage. Measure with engine off, red to red, black to ground.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
110,879members
165,312threads
2,326,206posts
1,980online users
Top