• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Hi guys. New 1970 M35A2 owner... need guidance.

NWSDE

New member
13
1
0
Location
Scio, Oregon
Just got a clean M35A2. I am pretty excited and look forward to your vast knowledge. A couple things first:

Driver side door latch doesn't work (fails to extend all the way). The door seems like I can't gain access to try to replace it. What am I missing?

Is there a resource for the heater... like where to install one? Purchase one? It has wires to it... but thats it.

It says it has air assisted steering... but dear lord... I don't think so. I about busted a gut trying to park the **** thing. lol How do you tell if its broken?

Driver side window is broken. Are they difficult to replace?

Where can I find the strut/arms for the windshields?

Can you separate the rear axles to use MRAP wheels/tires?

Any other standard modifications y'all recommend?

Finally (Why I posted in this forum) , I would like to crew cab it, but keep the 6x6. Is that even possible? If so, where to start?

Thank you guys so much in advance.

Scott
Scio, Oregon
14063774_1451714304844023_730679350414074679_n.jpg
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,259
2,945
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
Just got a clean M35A2. I am pretty excited and look forward to your vast knowledge. A couple things first:

Driver side door latch doesn't work (fails to extend all the way). The door seems like I can't gain access to try to replace it. What am I missing?

Is there a resource for the heater... like where to install one? Purchase one? It has wires to it... but thats it.

It says it has air assisted steering... but dear lord... I don't think so. I about busted a gut trying to park the **** thing. lol How do you tell if its broken?

Driver side window is broken. Are they difficult to replace?

Where can I find the strut/arms for the windshields?

Can you separate the rear axles to use MRAP wheels/tires?

Any other standard modifications y'all recommend?

Finally (Why I posted in this forum) , I would like to crew cab it, but keep the 6x6. Is that even possible? If so, where to start?

Thank you guys so much in advance.

Scott
Scio, Oregon
View attachment 639295

There's new windows in the classifieds right now and yes there are plenty of crewcab 6X6's out there. The first thing you need to do is get all the TM's and download them (available here on this site) and read them. Also start reading back posts of the Deuce section.
 

my blood flows OD

New member
340
3
0
Location
strafford new hampshire
That is a good looking truck. Has that got 11.00/20 on it?
You can't run mrap tires (14.00/20) on a 6x6 deuce. But you can run 395's the stock a3 size. Is a 46" rather then a 49"
and I believe you can run them on mrap rims.
I ran mrap rims on my boned deuce with peashooters adapters. That was a really nice setup. Peashooter does really nice work.
I love crew cabs. I to want to do one someday.
 

Eliteweapons

Member
238
5
18
Location
Baltimore Maryland
Scott,
If your drivers window is broken check the adjustment of the mirrors before you put in the new one. If someone mis-adjusted the mirrors or brackets they can hit the window if the door is opened all the way and break the window. The window is not difficult to replace but the weatherstripping can make it a pain sometimes.
 

Gralmk

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
622
53
28
Location
Attleboro, MA
Just got a clean M35A2. I am pretty excited and look forward to your vast knowledge. A couple things first:

Driver side door latch doesn't work (fails to extend all the way). The door seems like I can't gain access to try to replace it. What am I missing? Panel at the bottom of the door(also how you fix the window). Try lubing the latch, if not a take out and good cleaning! The latch is much harder to get out than the window!

Is there a resource for the heater... like where to install one? Purchase one? It has wires to it... but thats it. The Net! Usually goes on inside of drivers fender, just behind the access panel!

It says it has air assisted steering... but dear lord... I don't think so. I about busted a gut trying to park the **** thing. lol How do you tell if its broken? Look for air lines, if none just let the truck roll a bit as you turn!

Driver side window is broken. Are they difficult to replace? Follow TM or get someone who has done one to teach you how, it's easy when you've done a few hundred of them!

Where can I find the strut/arms for the windshields? Do you mean the locking arms that hold the windshield out! Net, just search M35 parts!(Tip, never keep the locking screws tight, if they are and someone pushes the window open, you will be buying a new windshield!, also, opening them may allow unwanted flying things to come in your face while driving!)

That's it for me, not a fan of mods! But good luck, try looking for a MV club in your area, or the member map on here and find a friend, if none then it is really and easy truck to work on! It's a GREAT truck, one of the best ever made! Like stated, get the TM's. the -10 is the operators manual, 20 and 30's are maintenance, and if it has a P at the end it is a parts TM! Enjoy


Can you separate the rear axles to use MRAP wheels/tires?

Any other standard modifications y'all recommend?

Finally (Why I posted in this forum) , I would like to crew cab it, but keep the 6x6. Is that even possible? If so, where to start?

Thank you guys so much in advance.

Scott
Scio, Oregon
View attachment 639295
See above lines in red, if this worked!

Good Luck!
 

NWSDE

New member
13
1
0
Location
Scio, Oregon
Thank you for your response. WOW. I really feel like a noob. It has the 11.00/20 I believe (how do I find out?). It is a A2, so am I stuck with these size tires unless I modify it?

Here is a side view.. if that helps at all.

14030591_1452728754742578_701454199_n.jpg
 

Valence

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,112
555
113
Location
Davis County, UT
Just got a clean M35A2. I am pretty excited and look forward to your vast knowledge. A couple things first:
Apologies, I left off the questions I had no input on.

Is there a resource for the heater... like where to install one? Purchase one? It has wires to it... but thats it.

Likely you'll have to find someone parting out a truck with one, or get some after-market adaptation. Gralmk is correct, it typically goes on the left side fender just behind the access panel (blower and hot water radiator), and then a diverter box under the dash mounted on the firewall above the transmission tunnel. There are several variations due to age or from other trucks such as the heater/blower/diverter all located in one box mounted inside the cab. A few folks have adapted commercial units, especially Air Conditioning/Heater boxes combos, but they're fairly mod intensive and I don't recommend them for you at this state.

It says it has air assisted steering... but dear lord... I don't think so. I about busted a gut trying to park the **** thing. lol How do you tell if its broken?
The air assist steering primarily comes in two parts, a new drag link (the "brains", contains valves etc) off the steering box on the exterior of the left front frame rail. Then an air operated ram tank on the back of the tie rod. There is also an air cut-off valve for the air-assist steering located inside the engine bay on the fire wall. This could be disabled. It looks like, and is located, as shown in the pictures here in my thread (the "T" handled valve):
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...ir-assist-steering-low-pressure-cut-off-valve

Also, you'd be able to easily hear the compressed air rushing and venting out of the drag link when you turned your wheels.

Where can I find the strut/arms for the windshields?
eBay, here on SteelSoldiers, the Facebook M35A2 page... anywhere a deuce is being parted out. Also try any of the many, many vendors out there:

http://www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/
http://www.bigmikesmotorpool.com/pages/frontpage
http://mvpartstore.com/
http://www.realcustomtrucks.com/Default.asp

Or any of the "big box vendors":
http://www.memphisequipment.com/
http://www.boyceequipment.com/
http://ccsurplus.com/
http://www.tnjmurray.com/militaryvehicles/index.cfm
http://www.kublossurplus.com/
https://www.easternsurplus.net/
http://midwest-military-equipment10.mybigcommerce.com/
http://www.oshkoshequipment.com/

on and on.. just search, use Google.


Can you separate the rear axles to use MRAP wheels/tires?
You can do anything do a vehicle with enough time, money, knowledge, and expertise...

As it sits, look at your rear tandems. They share a common leaf spring and torque rods with rubber bushings (often called "dog bones" and a center trunnion. It'd be a lot of work to modify/redesign this 3-link suspension.

Any other standard modifications y'all recommend?
For any/all of these, you can just search for them on SteelSoldiers and find the results

#1 priority: Brakes. Your brakes are (likely) a single circuit system (newer, later M35A2's, often "air force" trucks did have a dual circuit brake system). Here's a copy/paste of a list I gave another member, depending on when they were last serviced or how well maintained by the previous owner:


I would also recommend other service/maintenance items (repacking bearings, replace axle seals, boots and filters etc) before getting too deep into modifications, but here's some other (non-tire) upgrades in no particular order:

Finally (Why I posted in this forum) , I would like to crew cab it, but keep the 6x6. Is that even possible? If so, where to start?
Sorry, I have no good input here. But you'll start by searching this forum and seeing how much work it is. You'll need to unbolt and remove the bed, buy a second cab, splice the cabs together (the cabs are tapered towards the front, causing much difficulty and custom fabrication), extend the hard top roof, or get a custom material roof made, and shorten the bed and bolt it back on (or put a trailer bed on - the M015 trailer bed is popular, but IMO, shortened deuce beds look better).
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Valence

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,112
555
113
Location
Davis County, UT
Thank you for your response. WOW. I really feel like a noob. It has the 11.00/20 I believe (how do I find out?). It is a A2, so am I stuck with these size tires unless I modify it?

Here is a side view.. if that helps at all.

View attachment 639341
They definitely look big enough to be 11.00-20 NDT tires from the picture. But how you find out is like every-other tire in the world, go look on the sidewall and read the rubber formed numbers on it. It'll probably read exactly like:

11.00-20 <BRAND> MILITARY

Common brands:
Fidelity
Mohawk
Cooper Cross-Country
Titan T Hawk
etc

There's a lot you can do with tires. You can go for super singles (which generally require a different wheel such as an MRAP wheel with adapter plates or a recentered HEMTT wheel, or the stock M35A3 wheels ($$$)). the "395's" are probably the most popular "cheapest" super single you can go to, but they come with their own set of challenges. I went with Goodyear G177 11.00-20 radial tires for a number of reasons (and faced a number of challenges too), but I still think the super singles look and function really dang well.
 
Last edited:

brianp454

Member
572
11
18
Location
Portland, OR
Welcome aboard! I hope you take some time out to check the brakes. There's a great thread on brake lines and parts. Also, Erik's is here on the Left coast and typically ships the same day you place an order.
 

my blood flows OD

New member
340
3
0
Location
strafford new hampshire
I always wanted to try to get a hold of 2 1/2 ton Rockwell four link brackets like all of the rock crawlers guys use and use those to space apart the tandem rear. Replace the dog bones with longer four link. Then you could move it a little, like 1.5" on the stock leaf, or go further and change to air bags or coils.
neaver the less it can be done and the four link kits are well built and short money.
 
Top