The grounding harness many of us did, or will, install is a SUPPLEMENTAL harness to the existing factory harness for the most part. While some argue that it should be of a diameter and gauge that can handle the full discharge of two 24V deep cycle batteries, I went much smaller. I found wire that I could afford in bulk at Home Depot and put my own harness together for about $15 start to finish. I don't have the gauge handy, but it was thick enough to be hard to bend into a kink by hand, and it had to be cut with diamond jaw pliers. I made the terminations out of 1.5" lengths of copper pipe of varying diameters, whatever was wide enough to get the wire into and then flatten in the vise and drill a bolt hole through.
Half my problems went away when I installed my harness because the grounding circuit to the instrument panel was loose behind the dash. It turns out that connection has a wire bolted to the engine side of the firewall and another wire lead comes off the back of that bolt inside the cab, then connects to the panel. The bolt on the underside of my dash, on the firewall, was loose. No amount of tightening the other nuts could have helped it. My gauges don't flutter anymore!
Any grounding harness to supplement the small gauge factory one is a good addition. Clean all the connections you touch as you go and you'll improve the effectiveness of the factory harness while adding extra capacity in the form of your supplemental one.
Bulldogger