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Hot rod deuce

ltrdiesel

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I have built a few cummins hot rod engines that turned up to 6500 rpm. I have an extra ldt 465 and getting ready to start a project screamer. I was wondering before I start tossing cash at this if anyone has ballanced and blueprinted one of these? If not then all I can say is it will be a learning experiance. It seems from what I have read that the bottom end is what fails ont these engines. Thats alot of rotaiting mass that is no where near being ballanced. In turn is what wipes the rods out. Diesel engines are about the same whn it comes to inline 6 config. so we will see what happens. I built an 05 dodge common rail cummins engine that dynoed at 742 hp and spun 5800rpm and never had a rod problem. Only exploding turbos. If there is anyone that would be willing to share some info or exchange info I would be greatfull. Thanks
 

patracy

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I would think that there's a good bit to gain on balancing the bottom end. But I don't see you getting anywhere near the RPM you can of a cummins 5.9/6.7. I've been trying to work with ARP to get rod bolts, but I suppose I need to come up with a rod bolt before they'll do anything. I would think that if one was to balance the bottom end, upgrade the rod and main bolts, you could sustain ~2500rpm safely all of the time.
 

m880 unimog

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england
you,d most likely get better responce in the 'hot rod deuce' forum below?

if not these guys do a lot with power-

www.dieselbombers.com

if your looking at big diesel for a hot rod,im guessing power and torque is the primary need?

those are good numbers-

we build a lot of motorcycle AIRCOOLED drag race motors- primary balance and cryo of all key components is the first job we do.

for sure give us a link to any pictures/specs-loving them hot rods-here,s one were doing here in england-*the rear axle is off a M880- so it,s semi military:wink:
 

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colelkhunter

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there has not been alot of work on hot rodding the duece engine. there has been discussion and conjecture on this site and others, but i am not aware of anyone who has taken a multi fuel apart and balanced it. Or tried to hotrod it. My first thought on building a hot rod froma multi fuel would be to find a replacement for the rods. Most of the bad engines I see are broken connecting rods through the block. Mostly due to leaking FDC's leaking oil into the crank case and throwing a rod. If you were to come up with a stronger rod that is a direct swap i would think that you would have a good start to a hot rod. Top that off with a good balance and blueprint. Then maybe fire ring the block for more reliable boost without pushing out a headgasket. No idea what kind of gains or reliability you would get but I would build two and use one as a test bed to find the limits of the motor it might surprise you. There will be folks who nay say on this, but I would love someone to break down the wall to hot rodding a multi fuel engine. As with any internal combustion engine, they will benefit from increased air and fuel (horsepower being the byproduct). Go for it and don't let anyone tell you different. document it well and take lots of pics. I am down in tn and if I can help let me know. i will be there with bells on.:D
 

Billy Bobbed

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I'd think you would be money ahead to just put a 5.9 cummins and tranny in.If my engine goes I will consider it but I like the mutifuel.The LDT engine has been around for a while,why do you think there is no high hp LDT engines out there.That I've heard of.I dont think these engines will hold a lot of hp like a cummins will.And with more hp would you still be able to run WMO.
 
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ltrdiesel

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I just wanted to say thanks to everyone that posted. Im going to start on the monster this week. Ill post pics and info as I go forward. Again thanks for the input!
 

deathrowdave

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falmouth, ky
I don,t understand why an LDT OR LDS can,t be built bullet proof . I have had a lot of time operating and maintaing a large White deisel converted to Natural Gas (1750 HP) . Worked the engine on the redline for years no problems. Exploded the turbo and broke waterpump shaft other than that nothing . This giant had a 19" bore and aprox 42" stroke !!! Height of aprox. 7'6", Lenght or aprox 12' - 14' .
 

cornrichard

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Galesburg, IL
The white brand farm tractor used the same block and basic design for a few years. It had different pistons and fuel system. You might see if you can find a pulling tractor crew who knows about hot rodding the white engine. Those tractor pull guys have blown up everything and practice my favorite kind of science, destructive testing.
 

usafe7ret

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Troy, IL
I've always thought that the gearing played a major part in the speed restriction/limit of the Deuce. If a higher gear ratio was used, wouldn't you get more road speed with the same engine and transmission than trying to hotrod the motor?

Not sure which would be cheaper to do, or if you could even come up with the gears to make the swap.

While I'm not sure the OEM brake system would be safe enough to use on a deuce running 70 + MPH, it would be interesting to have one that could...

Standing by for enlightenment.
 

ltrdiesel

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Had not thought of that angle! Thanks for the input. On the other hand..... has anyone put twins on one of these yet?:grin: Thats also in the game plan after I do the rest of my home work on engine config. I have ran singles on the HO cummins engines I have built and produced 100psi spikes with a consistant 85psi. Again totaly diferent animal. Ill take inpuut and all suggestions. Thanks again guys
 

doghead

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I suggest you spend a few weeks and read every thread in the Deuce and Hot rodding the Deuce forums.
 

R Racing

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I would say your best bet is to throw out the Multifuel rods and find a aftermarket company to make you a set of custom rods. Connecting rod technology has come a long way since these low RPM cast rods were made. Balanced or not a cast rod will come apart at a given load, And with the amount of rods found thru the sides of blocks I would say its 1 of the engines weak links.
 

militarysteel

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i think you could do many different things to make it more mechanically sound! i am not sure how much past 2200 rpm you want to go, also i am not sure how much money you want to spend, from what i gather the whole design and concept of the engine is for reliability, Good Fuel Economy, and in emergency situations have the ability to burn different kinds of hydrocarbons as fuel, and the multifuel does a very good job and doing those. because of the nature of the way the engine was designed, Rods,Pistons,Crank 24/1 compression ratios, i don't think the engine will ever be hot-rodable, like other people posted, if you change the pistons and rods, etc but then the whole fuel delivery would need to be changed as well.
i think one of the reason they can take a duamax or cummins and make scream is the base of the engine can mostly handle it.
 

mikew

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edmond, ok
Although you'd loose multi-fuel capability, I've got a feeling that if you switched to the White tractor pistons you could up the RPMs a lot before you snapped the rod big ends.

I suspect the pistons in the White tractor motor are a whole lot lighter than multi-fuel ones.
 

eddiec

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Southeast mo
As far as hot rodding it, go for it. I have heard you can get well over 500 hp. As far a loosing the multi fuel capability, why, and what makes you think so? I have a 96 chevy dually, can run straight WMO, I've done it. Had a 1009 for 2 years, that is all I ran in it, except for winter, and got 20 mpg, the guy that bought it 2 years ago still uses WMO, and sometimes wvo. So what's the deal. Do you all know something I don't?
Think about it. Compression, oxygen, fuel. The engine only knows if the substance will burn or not. If you filter to 3 microns, you can burn almost anything.
 

sp00n

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Huntsville, AL
unless you are just doing it "because" I would guess it would be far less expensive (per unit of power, at least) to swap in a 12v Cummins or similar "modern" diesel. You could probably have an adapter plate or bellhousing fabricated to use the deuce transmission.
 

skidder

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Location
Winsted,conn
ltrdiesel, Yes i was going to bal. the LDS eng. an O-ring the heads an do other things to it , BUT not to hot-rod it ,JUST to make it run better an smother an get better FUEL Mileage Skidder
 
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