how can I get 24 volts to power a lamp socket?

[edpdx]

I bought a MRE Ration Heater and the power plug (silver end on cable in first pic) for it needs to be placed into a lamp socket like a standard tail lamp. I am going to rig a dash mount socket built into a reamed out 12v power supply socket- the type with a cover. I'll just epoxy a lamp socket into the hollowed out tube. Question for the electrical savvy: Where can I get the 24volts to go to the "socket"mount, and is 10gauge wire large enough for 24volts? I want the socket "HOT" all the time as the cable has an ON/OFF switch anyway.

 

[bearboley]

My truck has a dash mount socket in it, It also had a work light that was in the truck that looks like pac man on the end of a flashlight with about a 10 ft cord on it. So what you need is out there somewhere. Where did you get your heater I like it

 

[steelandcanvas]

Your wire gauge is determined by your current draw (Watts or Amps) not your voltage. I think if you'll do a search, you'll find maybe someone else located the correct receptacle. Divide Volts into Watts to get Amps.

 

[edpdx]

bearboley, I got mine on ebay... I think. It was about a year ago and IICR it was about the same price as this one:

ebay heater

Hey, what truck and what parts TM do you use, I can look it up

 

[bearboley]

Its only in the 816 my m35a2 or my m215 doesn't have it.

 

[KsM715]

I would tap into the same place your slave recept. is connected (or where the wires on the recept. are hooked up to it). You'll have constant 24V off that.

 

[91W350]

While stripping some switches out of a five ton, I found some heavy duty molded wire splitters, similar to the #40 wire split that goes to the dash lights, but in 10 gauge. I am not sure what the part number would be, but they are short and come from the wiring on at the man switch. The have the standard military Packard style connector and would make for a clean break away for a 24v source at the main power switch.

Otherwise, just make a short harness from the batteries like Jeff said and run it to your socket. Glen

 

[goldneagle]

I bought a fuse panel off Ebay and ran a dedicated line to the batteries. I installed the fuse panel below the dash. Now I can tap into it for any circuit i need.

 

[swbradley1]

As a matter of safety for everyone tying onto the battery terminals. You may want to consider putting a fuse or fusible link as close to the battery as possible. That way IF your wire rubs through along the way to your fuse block the hopefully be spared flames and/or lots of magic smoke.

Gimpy and I have found several trucks coming out of GL with scabbed on wires without fuses of any kind. Just because the government got away with it doesn't mean we should try.

YMMV

 

[mistaken1]

I would not consider installing a fuse or fuse link to protect the wires.

I would tell you in no uncertain terms that such a safety device is mandatory, unless of course you want to watch your truck burn and possibly worse.....

You can use the two terminal strips on the firewall behind the back battery. One is positive and one is negative. Use crimp on ring terminals on your negative #10 wire. Go to wally world and get an inline fuse holder and splice it to your positive wire and put the ring terminal on the other end so that you can protect your wires at the source.

Then proceed with your socket plans.

 

[Barrman]

Does it have to be on the dash? You already have 24V buss bars on the passenger side behind the door for the radio. Tie in right there since there are 4 or 5 spare lugs ready for wires.

 

[edpdx]

Thanks for all the great ideas guys. I like the idea of coming off the rear seat buss. I'll take a look today.

K9Vic good call on the mat difference. I am going to check the order and invoice now. From the pics, I definitely got the wrong one. Now the question is, am I that lame that I screwed up.