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How difficult to swap turbos?

TexAndy

Active member
1,427
15
38
Location
Bee County, Texas
I've got a truck with a D turbo and a truck with a C turbo.

Someone wants to buy the C turbo truck but they don't care whether it has the C or the D turbo in it. I kind of like the whistle sound.

So how hard is it to swap em? Just unbolt and bolt?

Or does the injector pump need to be timed differently? If so, will both need to be re-timed or just one? If so, which one?

I apologize in advance if this has been covered, but a quick search revealed nothing.
 

BFR

Rocket Surgeon
2,330
42
48
Location
North Georgia
I did it, and if I can do it anyone can.

about the only thing I would add to what has already been mentioned is that when you have it off is a great time to install a pyrometer if you plan on turning up the fuel.
 

littlebob

New member
1,548
26
0
Location
Baton Rouge LA
forgot to use spellcheck

Fresh out of pyrometers. What do you mean by turning up the fuel?
Don't do it till you research more(turning up the fuel). I don't plan on doing it on my first as it will be a low speed vehicle. It will make it run stronger, but can cause serious damage if not mounted with a good Pyro and boost gauger from what if seen posted.
 
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Keith_J

Well-known member
3,657
1,323
113
Location
Schertz TX
so, you mean adjusting the fuel/air ratio?

Pardon if I sound ignorant, because I am.
No, the air/fuel ratio is almost always far lean in the diesel engine.

Turning up the fuel adjusts the governor so more fuel can be injected. It does not increase the RPM of the engine but rather adjusts the feedback control of the governor...little governor understanding would be great here.

When you press the accelerator pedal, you are not directly controlling the injection quantity but rather you are increasing the spring force which in turn lets more fuel into the engine IF the engine RPM is below the set point, 2600-2800 RPM.

Diesel engines with non-wastegated turbos need careful adjustment of this control because they will easily overboost if not carefully done. A boost gauge is more important than a pyrometer unless you are pulling very heavy loads or driving in the mountains. This is most important due to head gasket issues and the very high compression ratio.
 
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Ferroequinologist

Resident railroad expert
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,808
742
113
Location
Liberty Hill, SC
:ditto:

I swapped mine out, and it was very easy except that one stud on the exhaust manifold snapped, so I wound up removing the exhaust manifold to replace the stud.

Other than that, it was easy and I'm glad I swapped my C for a D.
 

SEAFIRE

Member
210
6
18
Location
Seadrift Texas
I swapped mine out, and it was very easy except that one stud on the exhaust manifold snapped, so I wound up removing the exhaust manifold to replace the stud.
This happened to us when our original "C" turbo went out on one of our trucks, an easy job turned into a pain in the @ss....

You might get an extra turbo gasket if you don't already have one. We found a bad gasket during a turbo swap-out that was almost eaten through on one of the corners
 
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TexAndy

Active member
1,427
15
38
Location
Bee County, Texas
well, it turns out the truck I thought was a D-turbo wasn't. In fact, it wasn't turbocharged at all!

LD-465-1C

I'll probably just keep the LDT, even though it doesn't look quite as nice.

Ok, this is weird. The turbocharged engine's dataplate say's it's an LDT-465-1D... but it's got the whistler turbo.

So is it really a 1C or is it really a 1D like it says, but with the turbo replaced with the earlier version, for whatever reason?

If so, why would the army do this? Newer one crapped out and the 1C turbo was just what they had lying around?
 
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TexRdnec

New member
135
0
0
Location
Sinton, TX
your original is non-turbocharged? huh, drove well enough!

just in my limited reading just because it came with a D doesn't mean they wouldn't put a C on it for any reason or no reason at all............it's most certainly a whistler.
 
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