How do you flush a deuce cooling system

[panzerjunky]

What is the best way to flush the deuce coolant system. I see in the search thing someone mentioned Bjorns article in MV mag is that printed on site anywhere.
Thanks Jerry

 

[gimpyrobb]

Pull the thermostat and run the garden hose and/or compressed air through.

 

[Maverick1701]

X2 on running the hose w/gratuitous amounts of water

I dont know how well it would work on a deuce but my roommate flushes out his cooling system by running some water/CLR mix for 10mins then drains, flushes again w/only water then refills w/coolant. The CLR really cleans out the system....there is a lot of crud/junk/dirt/etc that comes out afterwards...I wish I had taken pix

 

[gimpyrobb]

While you have it apart, install a coolant filter.

 

[Josh]

CLR wont damage any of the gaskets/hoses will it.

 

[Maverick1701]

CLR wont damage any of the gaskets/hoses will it.

not sure but Im sure someone will chime in here.
My roommate doesn't have any damage to his cummins and the company claims it wont damage the metal/o-rings/tubes (in my faucet,dishwasher,spectic system,etc) in my bathroom but I haven't used it in my deuce or powerstroke.

 

[Divemaster920]

If I remember right CLR is just sodium carbonate. Used in washing detergents.
Pool PH increaser is the same thing.

 

[x-ray]

I think CLR is actually a mild solution of Phosphoric Acid - the acid converts iron oxide into iron phosphate - hence removing rust. Its also used in parkerizing in a similar way (for us guys that parkerize guns, etc.). You can buy buy it in many commercial forms like naval jelly, etc.

Coca-cola has some phosphoric acid in it too, which is why it will remove rust from bolts, etc. if soaked. Note I'm not reccomending to add Coke to your system.


I think many modern coolants supposedly have some form of rust inhibitor in them, My 2 cents is to use a garden hose and flush without using the acid.

 

[Divemaster920]

Yes X-RAY is right, I was wrong on the CLR, it can not be used on fabric. But for flushing out a Rad it sodium carbonate looks like it might still be the best choice. Too me anyways.

 

[oldshep]

i thought all dueces drained the fluids by themselves and you just keep adding back to it!

 

[jmh4x4]

what ever method you end up with, I suggest taking it for a ride after a heavy flushing just to make sure all the gunk is broke loose. I thought I had her nice in clean, took her out for a spin, drained out the plain water and it was pretty dirty. flushed some more, took her for another spin, got better.

I ended up leaving the truck run, open the drain, put the hose in uptop. ran for a long time. then took for a drive, repeat, repeat, repeat

one more thing, if you can get to it, undo the bottom hose out of the radiator, and flush out, alot of gunk is stuck in there. Its just a huge pain to get to.


I hope to wrap my flushing up this weekend, Im going on thr 5th day of flushing

 

[Josh]

well i plan no flushing my cooling system soon, ill keep the CLR idea in the back of my mind.

Edit -damn you jmh, beat me by a minute.

 

[broman78]

what ever method you end up with, I suggest taking it for a ride after a heavy flushing just to make sure all the gunk is broke loose. I thought I had her nice in clean, took her out for a spin, drained out the plain water and it was pretty dirty. flushed some more, took her for another spin, got better.

I ended up leaving the truck run, open the drain, put the hose in uptop. ran for a long time. then took for a drive, repeat, repeat, repeat

one more thing, if you can get to it, undo the bottom hose out of the radiator, and flush out, alot of gunk is stuck in there. Its just a huge pain to get to.


I hope to wrap my flushing up this weekend, Im going on thr 5th day of flushing

Would it be easier to put a filter on it then run it for a little while then change filter.

 

[Lex_Ordo]

I did mine a year ago, I changed out he radiator, and all the hoses. After I drained the system, I flushed with cold water from a hose, and ran the motor for a spell. Then drained, flushed a again, and did it one more time. Then refilled with a 60/40 split of heavy duty Teaxaco diesel coolant, and water. Sealed it up, and the coolant is nice and green with great temps around 180 when it is nice and hot.
I also recomend to replace the thermostat and gasket while you're changing the hoses.
If it's just a flush, then just flush.

 

[Westex]

I've had the same deal going on....flush and flush and flush through the drain valve. I've noticed rust every time and continue to attack it; have decided flushing out the pitiful little drain valve on the passenger side is inadequate; have to pull a hose to do this right, but which one? You dont want to introduce cold water into a hot diesel; I know my thermostat is working fine. How 'bout a dishwasher detergent flush?

 

[AZDeuce]

I am going though this right now (09-28-09). Today I drained the evil brown solution that passed as coolant from my truck, the drain cock was a no-go, so I ended up pulling the bottom hose, which meant that I ended up pulling the radiator, which meant that I ended up pulling the fan, which meant.......well, you get the idea.

While the radiator was off the truck, I flushed it out with a hose without a lot of luck, it's pretty clogged.

I removed the thermostat, and flushed the block until I got fairly clean water, then I reinstalled the thermosat housing, minus the thermostat and reinstalled the radiator and all hoses.....oh yeah, and the fan.

That lower radiator hose is a PITA, but with the radiator loose it works better, NOT easier, just better!

Shes, back together as of tonight, in the morning I will dump in a gallon and a half of CLR and top off with water. I will then get the truck up to operating temperature, with mid/high RPMS (1500-2000) and possibly a partially covered radiator.

I'll let her run for about an hour or more, then go through the whole disassembly process again to get that lower radiator hose loose, once the CLR is drained I will reflush the radiator and engine block - several times - and then let it set for a week until my new hoses and fan belts arrive, and I can get back to it on my next weekend.

I figure I might as well replace all that stuff while the radiator is out, as it will be a lot easier to get to. I sure hope the CLR unclogs that radiator, it looks to be in real good shape other than that.

I'll try to remember tio let you know how the CLR flushing went tomorrow.

 

[Lex_Ordo]

Once the radiator and hoses are all back on, run the motor, and use the drain cocks on the front of the radiator and the rear of the engine block. Seems like you're doing a lot of extra work to flush the motor.

The clean water will flush most out but remember it's a cast iron block. Thre's going to rust. Fresh coolant in a 60/40 split will keep the rust inhibited, and when it starts to change color again (in a few years), you will flush and repeat the coolant replacement.

 

[AZDeuce]

Today, 09-29-09, I finished my flushing project. This morning I added a gallon and a half of CLR, and topped it off with water from the hose. I fired her up and let her idle about 5 minutes, then took her to 1500 RPMs for about an hour.

After that I took her to 2000 RPMS for about 1/2 an hour, then I pushed her to 2500-2700 RPMs for about 15 minutes, then back to 2000 for 5 minutes, then 1500 RPMs for another 5, then to idle for 5 then shut her down.

While doing all this I kept moving a piece of cardboard on the front of the radiator to restrict the flow of air, and to manipulate the temperature. I had it mostly at 180 - 200 degrees, occassionaly I took her up to 230 or so.

As I wound down the RPMS, I removed the cardboard, so she could cool of normally, without the cardboard she dropped back around 160-180 or less RIGHT NOW!

I shut her down, the loosened the lower hose first - without getting burned! WOO-HOO! Next the upper hose, and the bolt that holds the radiator in place on top, and then the fan. I then removed the radiator, and flushed it with a hose until the brown water turned clean.

I did the same with the block, took about 10-15 minutes to get the block cleaned, but eventually I had nothing but clean water.

So that's where I'm at. I notied I seemed to have a lot better flow of water from the radiator than I did yesterday while flushing it out, so hopefully this will cure my slight overheating problem.

Hopefully next week my parts will be in, and I can get her back together, and go on a road trip and see if all this did any good. I HOPE SO!

 

[CMSGT]

While you have it apart, install a coolant filter.

Any info on a coolant filter to use on a Cummins NHC 250??

 

[BugEyeBear]

WHERE does the coolant filter install? (pics would be NICE!)

& who is the best source for these?

& how often does the filter typically need to be changed (starting with a clean batch of antifreeze)?

AND I see a few references to a 60/40 mix...
Is this 60% water & 40% antifreeze OR vice versa?
(I always use 50/50 mix or slightly less antifreeze in my cars... I've found that more antifreeze tends to cause more weeping at connections, & a concentration slightly less than 50% seems to cool better... Do you guys concur??) (BTW: I RARELY see freezing temps here in GA, so I can get away with less than max freeze protection. BUT I do always test my resulting concentration & it always shows 4-5 balls on the tester (-25F to -40F).)