How do you Paint a Deuce?

[ohfiredude]

How can you paint a deuce? Do you need special equipment? Do you need a big garage or enclosed area?

What kind of preparations do u have to make, besides sandblasting, rust removal, and hole patching do u need to do?

If you have limited space, like me, does it make sense to remove/prepare/and paint parts and assys individually?

Any suggestions will be most appreciated.

Thanks,

Dave

 

[dittle]

What you want it to look like in the end (quality) will determine how much effort you put into the paint effort.....half-ass front end job gets you a half-ass result. Not exactly the answer you were looking for but JMHO

 

[rivired]

well u got all the hard part coverd...the sand blasting is the worst cuz if u sand blast one patch ont he body..u gotta do the whole thing or ull have a deep spot in ur paint finish...

I shot mine with a 50$ paint sprayer ...primer than overcoat..outdoors uncoverd..

but then again im not looking for a show truck here..

i finished wwith a nice durable semi gloss finish that should hold up for some years and thats all i was looking for.

but ya paint is the eaqsy part..its in the prep..mine was 2 weeks of prep..2 days of paint

 

[SETOYOTA]

Good prep is the key. You can paint out side on a calm sunny day.

 

[Bill W]

Harbor freight 2qt sprayer, 6" DA sander,5hp compressor. Rent a 4000psi pressure washer for the day and degrease every nook and cranny, sand the cab and front clip, prime and paint. Thats the readers Digest version on how I did my first deuce ( see link below )
M-45A2 B,D&A pictures from military photos on webshots

 

[Manstein]

Be very careful with sanding or sandblasting. The CARC paint on that truck has a lot of similarities with spray in bedliner coatings. It is very tough and durable but is full of isocyanites which can cause all kinds of respiratory, nervous sytem and cancer problems if you inhail the dust.

I did mine about 2 years ago with rattle cans from RAPCO. It came out great and has been sitting outside since and still looks good.

The original CARC is hard to apply and is very expensive.

 

[M813rc]

Dave, check out this thread about completely repainting a truck, basic tools out in the open. Uses the Gillespie paint from Rapco suggested above.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/5-ton-up/13942-sarge-paints-his-m820.html

 

[Chow717]

Harbor freight 2qt sprayer, 6" DA sander,5hp compressor. Rent a 4000psi pressure washer for the day and degrease every nook and cranny, sand the cab and front clip, prime and paint. Thats the readers Digest version on how I did my first deuce ( see link below )
M-45A2 B,D&A pictures from military photos on webshots

Well worth the effort... nice looking truck!

 

[Nonotagain]

Be very careful with sanding or sandblasting. The CARC paint on that truck has a lot of similarities with spray in bedliner coatings. It is very tough and durable but is full of isocyanites which can cause all kinds of respiratory, nervous sytem and cancer problems if you inhail the dust.

The original CARC is hard to apply and is very expensive.

I'll make a minor change to what you have stated.

Cured CARC paint no longer contains any free isocynates as they are consumed in the curative process.

The main concern is the heavy metals that are contained in the coating which contains, zinc, cadmium, mercury, chrome and lead.

When sanding, use a respirator and wash all contaminated clothing separate from your normal household laundry.

Wash your hands frequently and no smoking, eating or drinking in the area where you have sanded.

The el-cheapo Harbor Freight HVLP gravity feed spray guns work fine for the application of CARC provided that you thin the coating with polyurethane thinner.

When mixing and spraying CARC, wear a respirator, as the isocynates will cause respiratory reactions. If possible cover yourself with some type of protective covering and discard when finished.

 

[Bill W]

Good point on the carc
My truck was not carc,d ( something I looked for when buying) it still had the 1970's 4 color camo pattern. I also forgot to mention that I used Gilliespie paint to shoot it. I did paint my Lightweight with single part carc ( 686A), it was wicked stuff to be around and single part carc only has half the VOC's as two part carc which is on most 35's
Chow 717 thanks for the compliment

 

[oilcan]

Good info here.
Just to add my two cents, I've painted trucks in a big gravel parking lot. As long as the wind isn't bowing too bad, it's ok. I've also heard of guys driving out to a field and spraying the truck with the on board air... While it's running. Just watch out for overspray. You wouldn't want to have to repaint your neighbor's house or their BMW.

 

[Blood_of_Tyrants]

It's a big green Army truck. Paint it any way you want. I take it to the car wash and blast off all the loose paint , the dirt and grim. The I sand with 80 grit sandpaper on the worst areas. I might go back with 120 or 150 if the paint is too gouged by the 80.

I use a rust converter called "1 Step" (about $40 a gallon + shipping) and paint it on the rusty areas with a brush.

Next I use Zinnser oil based primer from Home Depot (it comes in white but I have them put as much green and black tint as the can will hold in it) thinned 1:1 with clear paint thinner.

I shoot it on with a Binks Mach1 and a 2 quart pressure cup. 45 psi on the sprayer and about 1 psi on the cup but I think I will reduce the pressure of the spray on the next one.

Next is Rapco enamel thinned 1:1 with paint thinner again and shot the same pressure. A gallon will let you spray about 3 light coats.

You can shoot it in the yard as long as it isn't a windy day.