How Much do I need?

[tklm539]

Well the sanding is done on my Deuce. So its time to get ready to paint.

I am planning on using GCI "34079 Lusterless Forest Green. I am planning on spraying all the body and bed of the truck and the body and bed of a M105 this color. I will also do some brush work in the cab. Any idea on how much I should order.

In Addition, I am planning on doing the rims and underbody in flat black not sure on how much paint here either.

Last question, I have primed (Blach Rustolium) where I sanded to metal should I shoot the whole truck and trailer with Red Oxide prior to final paint? Or leave it as is. If red oxide, how much will I need?

Thanks in advance

Tom

 

[Recovry4x4]

I wouldn't shoot the whole truck in primer if the paint on there is adhered well. I'm no expert but thats my opinion. Considering the Hazmat costs in the shipping, I would order a case of 4 gallons. If you order a 2 gallon case and run short, you will lose money in the reorder. I used 2 1/2 gallons on my M35A2 and painted the interior and frame but the the inside of the bed.

 

[red devils dude]

priming the whole truck will help adhesion and help to stop rust but it really depends on the condition of the
current paint.

 

[CGarbee]

For that matter, priming the whole truck in one color of primer will make the final color more uniform. Not that many of us worry too much on a MV, but you can affect the color of the topcoat with different underlying colors, even with mulitple, thick, coats of Gillespie, etc...

I've done it both ways, primed the whole thing or just scuff sanded the existing paint and primed the bare spots. Sorta depends on how the existing paint looked, and how much I had to spot prime (at a certain point, it is easier to just nuke the truck than to spot...)

I tend to purchase my 34052 USMC Lusterless Forest Green from Mark at RAPCO and order it in three case lots since Mark will truck ship it at that quantity and the shipping cost really is low compared to UPS, especially since there are no HazMat charges when it is shipped by truck. Since he will mix and match colors, I usually get a couple buddies to go in on any given paint order...

Good luck.

 

[GIJoeCzar]

Tom,

I'm no paint expert, and I DON'T have the experience that others in this thread have, but I have learned a few good lessons ... the hard way. First, I recommend blasting and priming EVERYTHING that you're going to paint. As stated earlier in this thread, it (a) does help with adhesion, (b) increases the likelihood of a more even application, and (c) DOES delay the rust coming through the paint. Go to the following for detailed pictures of a Deuce I shot last fall:

http://czarnik.net/joe/My_Stuff/Mil...rucks For Sale M939 M35 M923 M809 M813/M35A2/

It sat outside all winter and still looks as good as the day I finished it. No rust through either. I used the single component moisture cure CARC from Sherwin Williams:

http://czarnik.net/joe/My_Stuff/Surplus Parts For Sale/CARC Paint/CARC Paint Data.pdf

Again, I'm no expert, but the proof is in the pudding.

Good luck!

Joe

 

[gimpyrobb]

That is a GREAT looking duo! When preping, did you take ALL the paint off, or just the real bad spots?

 

[GIJoeCzar]

CARC Paint

Thanks. I sandblasted the entire truck and trailer. I didn't sand down to the metal, in fact not nearly, what I did was hit every spot to ensure that all the loose, thin, and or poorly adhered paint was off. Then, primed the entire truck and trailer. I gotta tell you, priming is one of the keys to long term success. Joe