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How to Re-Attach Winch Hook to Cable

barkster

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Houston, TX
I bought an m925a2 today and we were testing the winch and the hook came off, glad it did now and now when it needed more than a couple of hundred pounds a pressure. I flipped through the manuals but didn't seen anything. I assume I just remove the nut somehow and it's a pressure fit when tightened? Whats the best way to make sure it stays on?

20150430_204727.jpg11133981_1640770606155557_668407924396410770_n.jpg
 

PowerstrokeNC

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1
18
Location
Greensboro, NC
There is a spelter (think thats what its called) in there as far as I know, creates a wedge effect when the cable tries to pull out therefore essentially pinching it in there. I think if you disassemble it you will find the piece in there.
 

Csm Davis

Well-known member
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Hattiesburg, Mississippi
Thimble and plug are what the manufacturer call them and if the cable pulled out I would recommend they be replaced you can buy them from Esmet directly and the installation instructions are on their Web site and on here somewhere ( I posted them).
 

Csm Davis

Well-known member
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Look at the plug and see if the cable had embedded into it if it didn't you can probably reuse it. Private Pile probably didn't assemble it properly, hence why it pulled out so easily.
 

barkster

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Location
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Yeah no telling how long ago it was used. anyone know which manual has how to check fluids in winch? Looks like there is a fill screw on top and something that looks like a Schrader valve. I want to check all the fluids on this thing
 
526
6
0
Location
Winston-Salem, NC
They are a pain to replace, might be easy after you do it a dozen times, I tried and failed on my wrecker so I had a local shop do it. Best $20 ever spent... You definitely need to plan on replacing the thimble inside there though.
 

zebedee

conceptualizer at large
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Esmet Assembly

View attachment Esmet socket assembly.pdf
Not sure if this uploaded or not!! If it doesn't work, I can "Print screen" and post the 5 or 6 "pictures" of the instructions.

The assembly block is the key to a decent and simpler job. I made mine by sandwiching a couple of sheets of paper between two blocks then drilling the correct size hole. That way there is a +ve grip on the cable when squeezed in the vise. (Having discarded the paper!)

Hope this helps.

If someone finds the original posting of the instructions, it can be linked and this post deleted.
 
Last edited:

jasonjc

Well-known member
5,326
289
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Location
Gravette Ar.
View attachment 557295
Not sure if this uploaded or not!! If it doesn't work, I can "Print screen" and post the 5 or 6 "pictures" of the instructions.

The assembly block is the key to a decent and simpler job. I made mine by sandwiching a couple of sheets of paper between two blocks then drilling the correct size hole. That way there is a +ve grip on the cable when squeezed in the vise. (Having discarded the paper!)

Hope this helps.

If someone finds the original posting of the instructions, it can be linked and this post deleted.
It uploaded just fine, Thanks. Now that I looked at the instructions again, I think I got one of those assembly kits.

Boy I'm forgetting about a lot of stuff. I was going to buy some 1" towbar feet for my new towbar I got from warthog. But I was cleaning out under my work bench and found a like new pair with pin I did not remember getting.:roll:
 

rosco

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A vise is essential. The wooden clamping blocks is a great idea and works, along with the hose clamp. If you can't see the ends in the inspection hole, its not fixed! There are too many Prvt Piles out there, not to fix it yourself.
 

m16ty

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I've replaced a few on deuce winches and while it isn't easy, it's not too hard. I'd imagine a 5-ton would be tougher though due to the bigger cable.
 

73m819

Rock = older than dirt , GA. MAFIA , Dirty
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I have done 5Ts using just a hose clamp, in fact think on the first one I used tie wire, wiped it a few times, twisted, pulled, twisted, done, a lot faster then even a hose clamp, If I ever replace mine, I will use a wedge and socket, in the field, a wedge and socket will get you back in business in about 5 minutes, the tail can be cut later, using the military end, you are down till the cable end can be dressed up so the military end can be used.
 

m16ty

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If I ever replace mine, I will use a wedge and socket, in the field, a wedge and socket will get you back in business in about 5 minutes, the tail can be cut later, using the military end, you are down till the cable end can be dressed up so the military end can be used.
I assume you're talking about what we call a "becket" in the crane and rigging industry. If so, yes it would work great to get you back going in a pinch. You could even leave it on there for good but they are kind of bulky.
 

73m819

Rock = older than dirt , GA. MAFIA , Dirty
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Yes in the crane world we call it a becket, there are all kinds of beckets, wedge and socked is just one, think bulk is not a bad trade off to get going in about 5 min.
 

Storm 51

Just a Grunt
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I just have a little truck (M37) with an open spelter socket on the end of the winch cable. It was installed with molten zinc instead of a wedge.

Is this method safe for a truck winch? I know they use this method with tug boats (I live in a port city).
 

zebedee

conceptualizer at large
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Last edited:
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