humvee won't start

[areebkh95]

hey guys, my Humvee has been sitting for 2 weeks now due to power steering issues and i went to start it but it didn't respond.

battery- 13v each
starter- 26v
kds box- cleaned out and looks like new


--- when i push it to start all the lights go out and come back after i let go of it.
--- voltage gauge shows red

 

[Dock Rocker]

Make sure it’s in neutral

Check the neutral safety switch

Pull your battery apart and put a good 12v charge 24 hours low and slow) on each battery. If it doesn’t crank then load test your batteries. You may have a dead cell.

My guess is it’s battery related.


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[Action]

Why are your lights on?
What is your steering problem? When the motor starts, the steering system will pressurize.

 

[areebkh95]

it is in neutral, where is the safety switch?

i charged the batteries before checking the voltage

i'll go ahead and get them tested today

 

[areebkh95]

Why are your lights on?
What is your steering problem? When the motor starts, the steering system will pressurize.

i was referring to the brake light but i also tried it with all lights and same thing

 

[simp5782]

if your check shows that you have 24v at the starter signal wire when you hit the switch then you have a dead starter. or did you only check for that power on the hot wire from the battery to the starter? But check all connections first.

 

[Dock Rocker]

it is in neutral, where is the safety switch?

i charged the batteries before checking the voltage

i'll go ahead and get them tested today

Neutral switch is in the shifter body. Silver do-dad with a detent ball the shifter pushes down when in neutral.


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[areebkh95]

if your check shows that you have 24v at the starter signal wire when you hit the switch then you have a dead starter. or did you only check for that power on the hot wire from the battery to the starter? But check all connections first.

i checked it while it was in the off position and got 26v so i will go ahead and check that right now

 

[simp5782]

i checked it while it was in the off position and got 26v so i will go ahead and check that right now

You need to check the start signal wire. It will have zero voltage with the switch off and in the run position. It will only have 24+ v when it is in the start position. That tells the truck to start. If you have 24+ there when trying to start then the starter is dead. If you have no voltage, you need to check for 24v coming off the switch when you hit the start side.

 

[cwajciec]

This sounds like a bad battery connection to me. It will show good voltage but go to 0 when trying to flow a lot of amps like when starting. The lights should dim a bit but still be lit when trying to start. Either the battery is internally shorted or there is a bad connection in one of the big wires.

 

[Milcommoguy]

My vote is with cwajciec.

Same test more or less, turn on the head lights and try and start. Lights go really really dim to all out... excessive voltage drop. Funky battery internals, loose, corroded connections, more likely big wires. More things to look for: Feed thru hardware from battery box to starter BOTH positive and negative leads, negative shunt & connections, again thru box. (fat bolts) Surprised it didn't do the clicking, clanking, machine gun sound of the solenoid trying to engage the starter. Sound like severe (easy fix) voltage - current supply problem. Again multi-meter and simple tests should narrow it down or wiggle, jiggle and look.

Lookie part. Crawl underneath and between right side frame and battery box, more big wires AND don't forget remove to negative lead when looking. Find something, fix it then reconnect.

Fingers crossed............Good luck and post your finding.

CAM

 

[Milcommoguy]

My vote is with cwajciec.

Same test more or less, turn on the head lights and try and start. Lights go really really dim to all out... excessive voltage drop. Funky battery internals, loose, corroded connections, more likely big wires. More things to look for: Feed thru hardware from battery box to starter BOTH positive and negative leads, negative shunt & connections, again thru box. (fat bolts) Surprised it didn't do the clicking, clanking, machine gun sound of the solenoid trying to engage the starter. Sound like severe (easy fix) voltage - current supply problem. Again multi-meter and simple tests should narrow it down or wiggle, jiggle and look.

Lookie part. Crawl underneath and between right side frame and battery box, more big wires AND don't forget remove to negative lead when looking. Find something, fix it then reconnect and test.

Fingers crossed............Good luck and post your finding.

CAM

 

[areebkh95]

You need to check the start signal wire. It will have zero voltage with the switch off and in the run position. It will only have 24+ v when it is in the start position. That tells the truck to start. If you have 24+ there when trying to start then the starter is dead. If you have no voltage, you need to check for 24v coming off the switch when you hit the start side.

i found the issue; one of the batteries had 0CCA but 13v

 

[areebkh95]

This sounds like a bad battery connection to me. It will show good voltage but go to 0 when trying to flow a lot of amps like when starting. The lights should dim a bit but still be lit when trying to start. Either the battery is internally shorted or there is a bad connection in one of the big wires.

i found the issue; one of the batteries had 0CCA but 13v

 

[areebkh95]

My vote is with cwajciec.

Same test more or less, turn on the head lights and try and start. Lights go really really dim to all out... excessive voltage drop. Funky battery internals, loose, corroded connections, more likely big wires. More things to look for: Feed thru hardware from battery box to starter BOTH positive and negative leads, negative shunt & connections, again thru box. (fat bolts) Surprised it didn't do the clicking, clanking, machine gun sound of the solenoid trying to engage the starter. Sound like severe (easy fix) voltage - current supply problem. Again multi-meter and simple tests should narrow it down or wiggle, jiggle and look.

Lookie part. Crawl underneath and between right side frame and battery box, more big wires AND don't forget remove to negative lead when looking. Find something, fix it then reconnect and test.

Fingers crossed............Good luck and post your finding.

CAM

i found the issue; one of the batteries had 0CCA but 13v

 

[areebkh95]

hey guys, thanks for all the help but the issue was with the amperage of one of the batteries which was at 0 so i used my warranty to change it out and starts like new....

i do still have this concern from before that the wait light only comes on for less than a second before going away


again, thanks for all the help

 

[Thecaptain]

If you haven’t checked/cleaned all of your grounds - that could cause a short waitlight - and it’s an easy/free fix.

 

[juanprado]

My wait light would only come on for a nano second. Almost could not see it in bright sunlight. My glow plug temp sensor was the problem in the water crossover pipe. The big sensor with 1-1/2 hex and multiple wires with a big black cap. YMMV

 

[robmcmichael]

My wait light would only come on for a nano second. Almost could not see it in bright sunlight. My glow plug temp sensor was the problem in the water crossover pipe. The big sensor with 1-1/2 hex and multiple wires with a big black cap. YMMV

Is there a way to bypass the neutral safety switch because I recently left my ignition kill switch on and killed the batteries. After I changed batteries nothing happens. The solenoid in battery compartment clicks, but when I hit rocker switch to start nothing happens. No lights no nothing.

 

[TOBASH]

Is there a way to bypass the neutral safety switch because I recently left my ignition kill switch on and killed the batteries. After I changed batteries nothing happens. The solenoid in battery compartment clicks, but when I hit rocker switch to start nothing happens. No lights no nothing.

Yeah, do like the rest of us with 3 speed trannies and keep the vehicle in gear so as to kill the current flow and prevent starting.